kaiser

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About kaiser

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday 08/30/1974

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    Male
  • Location
    New york
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    all

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  1. No I do not belong to their club but I do know a few members and I have been wanting to join, but I have enough commitments in my life right now. Great bunch of guys.
  2. good quality veneers and proper preparation are needed. Paper back is not necessary and most of the exotics dont come paper backed
  3. you can always handplane the 2 surfaces once cut.
  4. The sample packs normally has decent sized pieces in it and have sequential matched packs in there too.
  5. Anyone in the long island area needing spanish cedar for this project drop me a line. We have a bunch of cutoffs from a recent project that need a home or I have to build 20 humidors. 631.481.6749
  6. Anyone in the long island area needing spanishcedar stop by I have tons of cutoffs that would be good for this project. No charge just come and get em. I hate for them to sit around the shop and eventually go to the fire.
  7. This is a tricky one... If you drape epdm roofing from joist to joist without any pitch puddles will form and the epdm will fail in time. To use this sort of system these are the steps you should take and consider. 1: Taper the bottom of the deck joists 1/8" per foot. 2: Make sure the membrane is behind the deck ledger against the house and under the flashing than is behind the deck ledger board. 3: At this point you don't necessarily need the epdm to drape between the joist due to the fact that you have pitch going away from the house. 4: Make sure you screw the epdm to the bottom side of the joists using a batten and be vigilant in how many screw you use. every 6-8" 5: Make sure to use a low modulus caulking on the contact point of the epdm and bottom side of the joists. Sika flex is the best low modulus caulking I have ever used. You can also use this system with corrugated steel or fiberglass. 3 key points are: 1: make sure there is pitch. even flat roofs have pitch 2: make sure you are under your deck flashing at your house connection. 3: make sure you seal material to underside of joists with low modulus caulking. There is also a company that I believe is called dry snap that is a soffit material made for the underside of 2nd floor decks. I would not be as concerned about snow load due to the fact that there is a deck above that will carry the snow load. You are just going to want to capture water that will penetrate the deck boards to bellow when snow melts.
  8. This damage you have is wear and tear and shouldn't legally affect your deposit. In any case, follow what freddie or john smith said. Poly goes on in separate layers with a slight line in between the coats. It is very hard to blend without noticeable signs of a repair being done. That is the downside of poly. Tung oil may come up a little lighter than the rest of the floor, but you can try it and see how it comes out. If the area is not sealed first with the tung oil, you will wind up with mote depth in the wood than other areas of the floor due to the fact that the oil penetrates deeper that poly. So if you go the tung oil route be sure to not let it soak in to much.
  9. MDF is one of the best substrates for veneering due to its consistency in thickness and flatness. It should not have spans that are too great (over 2') without having some kind sub structure such as aprons of sort.
  10. Penofin is usually used on hardwood species such as mahogany and ipe. It is one of the best products out there for decks, but does need maintenance. Probably should be applied everry 1-2 years depending on traffic and climate. If you deck is southern yellow pine, I would check a little bit on an obscure area and see how well it penetrates. The saps in SYP tend to harden and not accept finish in time.
  11. I decked it with a router and sled and removed pencil marks with a no 8 jointer..............have some tear out.(that's ok.....isn;t it) and in the words of The Schwarz "2 coats of equal parts BLO, Varnish and mineral spirits and Bob's your uncle"
  12. I went with 1/3 blo, 1/3 mineral spirits and 1/3 epifanes clear varnish. I am happy with the results other than the fact that this thing is sucking finish like a camel. I wanted the uv protection of the epifanes being that the bench will see as much sunlight, direct or indirect, as possible. I am using teak oil finish and wiping on oiled based poly on a project and am liking the results from that mix, but do not want the repair issues that come with poly on my bench.