Trip

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  1. Benefits to an adjustable mouth block plane

    ==>What jobs do you do that require it? The 102/103 apron planes are just fine 90% of the time. They are my go-to block planes (and I'm not alone here). A tight mouth can assist with end-grain and particularly nasty figured/interlocked/etc grain... But then again, so can a spritz of naphtha...
  2. Show off your dining room table!

    ==>I'm following the sizing guidelines from Don Stephan, http://www.stephanwoodworking.com/DiningTableDesignConsiderations1-16-14.pdf. Never heard of him... But everyone with an MA in Furniture Design has heard of Ramsey... It's been the standard design text since the '30s... I'll let you decide...
  3. Show off your dining room table!

    Assuming you’re building Pekovitch’s hayrake table as found in FWW (the sketchup drawing doesn’t reflect the curves in the hayrake), and that I made a very similar table in exactly that size (mine was a bit narrower as explained below), a suggestion or two... Recheck you dimensions against architectural standards: That’s an excessively large table to seat ten and trestle-style tables tend to look better if they are not ‘wide’... It’s too early in the morning for a tract on design standards, so I’ll ask you to do the legwork on this.... As a hint, locate a copy of Ramsey, “Architectural Standards”... It’s a college text and excessively expensive, but I believe there’s a PDF floating around. If you can’t find it, I’ll scan the relevant page on dining seating and dining table dimensions and PM. Make the table 42” wide or less --- that way you can take the slab to a local cabinet shop and they can run it through the wide belt... Since you list yourself as a noob-in-training, this is an aggressive project... There’s angled joinery and the overall size adds complexity... For example, the Roubo build is a novice project, but the size ups the skill-level to advanced beginner... The hayrake is certainly above the Roubo in skill-level... I’d execute the hayrake stretcher assembly in poplar, soft maple, etc before committing to Walnut... I'd also execute one leg in something cheap before committing to Walnut... Buy all your walnut at the same time from the same lot. Over-buy for the top – if you screw-the-pooch and have to source more sticks for the top, then there will probably be some obvious color variations. I’d hesitate in having the lumber yard joint the sticks... They’ll move once acclimatized to your shop... If you can’t do it yourself, then let the sticks acclimatize and arrange for a cabinet shop to joint them... Don't want to discourage you, because it's such a great table... But it's a non-trivial build and you need to go in with your eyes open... Good luck.
  4. Water and oil

    Whenever there is any doubt, there is no doubt... I never remember, but I believe oil over water generally works, but water over oil doesn't... Again, I never remember... YMMV Whatever you do, try it out of some scrap first... So if it tanks, it's just scrap and no harm done...
  5. Milwaukee's OneKey...

    ==>I've had LOTS of Milwaukee tools over the decades, corded & battery. Same here... Unfortunately, M is not the company it once was... I've given almost all of mine away... I keep their 28v set for the boatyard -- powerful cordless is great when 110v is hard to come by... I've kept my hole hawg -- it's got to be 20years old. Don't know if they make it like they used to, but it's a great tool (at lease it was)... My DIY kit is now the 18v Bosch set -- I've probably got one of each in the line... Haven't found a dud, so I can recommend them
  6. Shop Notebook or Journal

    I keep an artist's sketch book for initial concept drawings, jigs and to resolve joinery questions... I've got them going way into the past... I find I don't look at old volumes... I keep a small bound book for all finishing schedules I've used by species and piece. This includes color formulas. I've found this notebook handy from time to time.
  7. Been using epoxy for a while – mostly in marine applications... When I needed long open times for complex furniture assembly, I used West Systems 105 and 206 Slow Hardener. This was my go-to complex assembly adhesive for over a decade... Today, I use 105/207 Laminating Hardener. Why the switch? Answer: It cures clear! That makes perfect sense for filling knots, cracks, punky wood, etc. But why use it for joinery? Answer: It cures clear! Tip #13 is the result of a very hard lesson learned... In a complex glue-up, you’re bound to get squeeze-out somewhere... Just accept it... Death, Taxes, Snipe and Squeeze-out... Many mitigate the mess with blue tape, a release agent, wax, packing tape, etc... These all work just fine... But at some point, you’ll overwhelm the prophetic employed... It'll just happen... If the squeeze-out is epoxy, then it's at least a near disaster --- unless the joinery is hidden... And worse, if you wipe it back, now it's in the pores -- an even bigger problem... Now what? Well, you can scrape, sand, chisel, etc... You can get the squeeze-out flush with the stock, but it’s still there – to go further will do more harm than good... And worse, it'll be highly visible once you hit the squeeze-out with finish... Why do I use 207? It cures clear!... And I take advantage of that... Solution: I shoot the piece with a 0.5# cut shellac as a barrier coat. I then shoot a clearcoat. Voila, the squeeze-out disappears... BTW: squeeze-out is also one reason I use HHG/LHG for almost everything that's not epoxy-bonded... You can just scrub HG with hot water and a toothbrush... In other words, I plan for squeeze-out and select my adhesives accordingly... Here's the first piece I tried my idea on... It's an accessory shelf (hard maple) for my drill press. I'm not sure how old it is, but it's survived several drill presses... Because it was 'just a shop accessory', I didn't use blue tape to manage squeeze out.. I just couldn't be bothered -- and paid the price... There was a lot of squeeze-out in the corner -- a lot... I just ragged-it-back and decided to live with the mess... Until I realized it would cure clear -- then the light bulb went on... 5DMiii, 50/f5.6 Oh, the squeeze-out's still there, but you can't see it... Actually, that's a bit of an exaggeration: If you look in a certain light, you can see a witness line. But that's much better then starting over... This works well under shellac, lacquer, varnish, conversion varnish, etc. Any film that cures clear... Ask me how I know But it especially works well under marine varnish... I can't tell you how much epoxy I've hidden in my outdoor pieces... But it's a lot. Unfortunately, it doesn't work under oil, but you can't have everything... So, epoxy squeeze-out may not be the end of the world... Enjoy...
  8. Jointer Issues with Edge Jointing

    Cutter-head arc around 0.5thou to 1.5thou above out-feed table height works for most... This is about the best guide I've come across: https://woodgears.ca/jointer/knives.html Note: the height changes over time with the sharpness of the edge (I'll let you noodle on that). So you can follow a 'process' to set height, but ultimately it'll need a fine tuning jointing actual stock. So it's not a 'set it once and forget it'...
  9. Morris Chair - Final Glue-Up

    ==>glue fairly liberally in the mortise why? if your joinery is solid, there is no need... ==>Is it desirable to shoot for zero squeeze out with epoxy? exactly. Again, I'm surprised Marc didn't address this when using epoxy... You don't spead epoxy on the tenon-side of joinery -- you just wet it. Actually, not with any adhesive, but epoxy squeeze-out is especially problematic. ==>Do you keep rags and acetone around or do you let it cure and scrape/remove it once hardened? Neither. If there is even the remotest possibility of squeeze-out, I use blue tape, a release agent (Waxilit, at the moment) or some other protection... If you rag it, you may press the mix into the grain and you're screwed. Worst case of a spill, I've got epoxy solvent -- which is incredibly volatile and (I bet) very toxic, so I wouldn't recommend it --- makes lacquer thinner seem like grape juice... When I screw the pooch, I shoot a seal coat of #0.5ct and go with a clear lacquer finish... That's why I use 207 -- the squeeze-out is hidden under the lacquer film... BTW: that's my tip for the week -- and one that's a very hard lesson earned... ==>That's the big plus with Unibond 800 - it cleans nicely with water. exactly. the downside is its carcinogenic... ==>you mix the epoxy and then pour it into the syringe? yes.
  10. Morris Chair - Final Glue-Up

    209's fine. Use it for when long open time is the most desired feature and/or bonding in hot weather. Potential drawbacks: 3:1 mix ratio, doesn't cure as clear as 207, high minimal cure temp, long cure time and cost... For furniture, my goto is 207 or 206, in that order. BTW: 207 is suitable for structural applications -- so if you plan to use 207, you should get some 205/206 for general-purpose or structural applications... ==> thickening agent is used to thicken the mixture yes. But more correctly: modify handling properties during pot life, tint or modify the texture of the cured mix. ==>making it less viscous yes. ==>and easier to handle/drop into small mortises maybe. It you need to get epoxy into small mortises, the best approach is unadulterated mix and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EMEXNI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage The tenon should be whetted only. Smearing epoxy on the tenon-side of joinery is considered poor practice. I've not watched Marc's Morris build, but am surprised he didn't address the issue. Smearing modified epoxy to joinery without wetting can lead to joint failure. BTW: even for larger M&T joinery, I still use the Monoject syringes -- especially with open-grained species. Yes, they're $0.50 apiece, but smeared epoxy is a bitch to cleanup. ==>and fill gaps in joints. no. If you have large gaps, then you have other problems that epoxy won't cure. Epoxy should not be used as a solution to poor joinery...
  11. Morris Chair - Final Glue-Up

    1. I'm not Marc. 2. Twenty years experience with various epoxy compounds including West Systems. 3. I rarely use additives for furniture making... Use them all all the time in marine applications, but not furniture... When I do, it depends on the species and application. What species is your project? What is the application? I seriously doubt you need additives. For furniture, usually 406 or 405. 4. Unibond is just fine, you can mix it thicker if you like... 5. Small batches are prone to formulation errors... You must dispense at least one full pump.. Or mix by weight. 6. If your garage is too cool for adhesive curing, get an electric blanket. 7. 206 and 207 are more useful for furniture. ==>The mortises on the chair back are small and he applies glue to them using a popsicle stick. Unibond 800 is too thin for that application. ??? -- Morris didn't have epoxy or Popsicle sticks... You can mix U800 pretty thick if you like. Or you could just use HHG/LHG -- kinda like Morris... Executed several Morris chair builds in my time (not Marc's build). If you know what you're doing, there is little need to thicken adhesive for the build. If you do use a thickening agent, you need to wet both surfaces with unadulterated epoxy, then follow-up with a thickening agent (if needed). Any other technique is wrong -- doesn't matter where you read it or who's videos you watch...
  12. need help!

    If I may make on further suggestion -- At some point, you'll need to sand the top... Sometime after you finish removing much of the stain and wanting to start with the blotch control... Not knowing how thick the veneer is, it could still have reasonable stock remaining, or it could very thin indeed --- with the accompanying risk of sand-through... Sand-through doesn't necessarily mean sanding through the veneer itself... It could mean sanding to the point where the veneer is so thin that the stain interacts with the adhesive affixing the veneer to the table... BTW: The 'line of blotch' may not be the wood itself, but the adhesive below it... Say you sanded one side, then moved around the table and sanded the other, but you didn't sand the same on both sides. The veneer on one side maybe became too thin and the adhesive interacted with the stain on that side, but not on the thicker side... BTW: this has happened to me, so don't feel too bad... If this happened, the Gel stain should still conceal the problem, but not perfectly... Random orbit sanders are great, but they remove stock very quickly (which is one of the reasons they're are great)... Use sheet sandpaper and a sanding block for any more sanding... And sand with the grain... I know it's more work, but after all the time you've invested, sanding through the veneer with a random-orbit sander would ruin your day... Good luck.
  13. New toy!

    Rigidity of the plate... Less vibration, etc... All my blades are the same, so my fence scale is always correct... I'm sure there are other reasons, but I haven't had my caffeine infusion yet...
  14. New Chisels - LN vs PMV-11

    I've got both... So no skin in this game... So much about hand tools comes down to how it feels in your hands -- and how sharp it is... If you can, try one of each... See which you like.. Does Woodcraft sell both brands? Both retain excellent resale value... Terry's spot-on... You could buy one of each and sell what you don't want for 80% of the MSRP...
  15. Oops

    If it's cured, old chisel. Then final cleanup with alcohol. You'll always have discoloration in that spot.