Trip

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Everything posted by Trip

  1. Trip

    I'm out...

    Want to thank everyone for their kind thoughts, PMs and eMails. In case of woodworking emergency, you can reach me via PM... To get a reply, I’d need an external eMail address... Thanks again.. Good Luck.
  2. Trip

    I'm out...

    Been fun, but it's time to join Don in ShaperLand... Thanks... Good luck.
  3. ==>What jobs do you do that require it? The 102/103 apron planes are just fine 90% of the time. They are my go-to block planes (and I'm not alone here). A tight mouth can assist with end-grain and particularly nasty figured/interlocked/etc grain... But then again, so can a spritz of naphtha...
  4. ==>I'm following the sizing guidelines from Don Stephan, http://www.stephanwoodworking.com/DiningTableDesignConsiderations1-16-14.pdf. Never heard of him... But everyone with an MA in Furniture Design has heard of Ramsey... It's been the standard design text since the '30s... I'll let you decide...
  5. Assuming you’re building Pekovitch’s hayrake table as found in FWW (the sketchup drawing doesn’t reflect the curves in the hayrake), and that I made a very similar table in exactly that size (mine was a bit narrower as explained below), a suggestion or two... Recheck you dimensions against architectural standards: That’s an excessively large table to seat ten and trestle-style tables tend to look better if they are not ‘wide’... It’s too early in the morning for a tract on design standards, so I’ll ask you to do the legwork on this.... As a hint, locate a copy of Ramsey, “Architectural
  6. Whenever there is any doubt, there is no doubt... I never remember, but I believe oil over water generally works, but water over oil doesn't... Again, I never remember... YMMV Whatever you do, try it out of some scrap first... So if it tanks, it's just scrap and no harm done...
  7. ==>I've had LOTS of Milwaukee tools over the decades, corded & battery. Same here... Unfortunately, M is not the company it once was... I've given almost all of mine away... I keep their 28v set for the boatyard -- powerful cordless is great when 110v is hard to come by... I've kept my hole hawg -- it's got to be 20years old. Don't know if they make it like they used to, but it's a great tool (at lease it was)... My DIY kit is now the 18v Bosch set -- I've probably got one of each in the line... Haven't found a dud, so I can recommend them
  8. I keep an artist's sketch book for initial concept drawings, jigs and to resolve joinery questions... I've got them going way into the past... I find I don't look at old volumes... I keep a small bound book for all finishing schedules I've used by species and piece. This includes color formulas. I've found this notebook handy from time to time.
  9. Been using epoxy for a while – mostly in marine applications... When I needed long open times for complex furniture assembly, I used West Systems 105 and 206 Slow Hardener. This was my go-to complex assembly adhesive for over a decade... Today, I use 105/207 Laminating Hardener. Why the switch? Answer: It cures clear! That makes perfect sense for filling knots, cracks, punky wood, etc. But why use it for joinery? Answer: It cures clear! Tip #13 is the result of a very hard lesson learned... In a complex glue-up, you’re bound to get squeeze-out somewhere...
  10. Cutter-head arc around 0.5thou to 1.5thou above out-feed table height works for most... This is about the best guide I've come across: https://woodgears.ca/jointer/knives.html Note: the height changes over time with the sharpness of the edge (I'll let you noodle on that). So you can follow a 'process' to set height, but ultimately it'll need a fine tuning jointing actual stock. So it's not a 'set it once and forget it'...
  11. ==>glue fairly liberally in the mortise why? if your joinery is solid, there is no need... ==>Is it desirable to shoot for zero squeeze out with epoxy? exactly. Again, I'm surprised Marc didn't address this when using epoxy... You don't spead epoxy on the tenon-side of joinery -- you just wet it. Actually, not with any adhesive, but epoxy squeeze-out is especially problematic. ==>Do you keep rags and acetone around or do you let it cure and scrape/remove it once hardened? Neither. If there is even the remotest possibility of squeeze-out, I u
  12. 209's fine. Use it for when long open time is the most desired feature and/or bonding in hot weather. Potential drawbacks: 3:1 mix ratio, doesn't cure as clear as 207, high minimal cure temp, long cure time and cost... For furniture, my goto is 207 or 206, in that order. BTW: 207 is suitable for structural applications -- so if you plan to use 207, you should get some 205/206 for general-purpose or structural applications... ==> thickening agent is used to thicken the mixture yes. But more correctly: modify handling properties during pot life, tint or modify the textur
  13. 1. I'm not Marc. 2. Twenty years experience with various epoxy compounds including West Systems. 3. I rarely use additives for furniture making... Use them all all the time in marine applications, but not furniture... When I do, it depends on the species and application. What species is your project? What is the application? I seriously doubt you need additives. For furniture, usually 406 or 405. 4. Unibond is just fine, you can mix it thicker if you like... 5. Small batches are prone to formulation errors... You must dispense at least one full pump.. Or mix by weight.
  14. Trip

    need help!

    If I may make on further suggestion -- At some point, you'll need to sand the top... Sometime after you finish removing much of the stain and wanting to start with the blotch control... Not knowing how thick the veneer is, it could still have reasonable stock remaining, or it could very thin indeed --- with the accompanying risk of sand-through... Sand-through doesn't necessarily mean sanding through the veneer itself... It could mean sanding to the point where the veneer is so thin that the stain interacts with the adhesive affixing the veneer to the table... BTW: The 'line of
  15. Trip

    New toy!

    Rigidity of the plate... Less vibration, etc... All my blades are the same, so my fence scale is always correct... I'm sure there are other reasons, but I haven't had my caffeine infusion yet...
  16. I've got both... So no skin in this game... So much about hand tools comes down to how it feels in your hands -- and how sharp it is... If you can, try one of each... See which you like.. Does Woodcraft sell both brands? Both retain excellent resale value... Terry's spot-on... You could buy one of each and sell what you don't want for 80% of the MSRP...
  17. If it's cured, old chisel. Then final cleanup with alcohol. You'll always have discoloration in that spot.
  18. Tradition is two inner faces starting just below the joinery... But hay, it's your bench so anything goes... Try the taper on a piece of scrap and see how you like it... If you taper it starting lower, you can always move the taper point higher... Apron, rails, etc -- all the same...
  19. Trip

    need help!

    That particular Minwax product is an oil-based stain... Which is good and bad... Bad, because it's the wrong product to use on a blotchy wood (ex. Maple) and Good, because you can reverse it with oxalic acid (found in most households labeled as, 'rust stain remover'). If you used the pre-stain conditioner, then two or three ten-minute treatments of oxalic acid will remove 80% of the stain and blotch. The final result will be much lighter, fairly even with some blotch remaining... Not perfect, but it'll give you a good place to start over... The surface will be somewhat light gray with scatter
  20. ==> but still a ton of waste. In my shop, time is more important than high-waste in a couple sticks... If he's really getting a good deal on the stock, so he kills a stick or two? Further, the 100bf 10/4 will probably all be from one lot, so it'll all look the same... Sourcing stock across lots will probably lead to color, grain, etc issues. It's rather waste stock and have a color match and source a different species for the base.
  21. To be honest, you'd have to be saving a lot of $$ to mix stock like that... It's going to cost you a good deal of time, so how much is your time worth? If the dealer can get 100bf of 10/4, then he should able able to source 160bf and you're done... Or make the top, chop and deadman from the 100bf 10/4 and source 80bf a contrasting species in 8/4 for the base.
  22. Trip

    need help!

    Let’s summarize: Table veneered with blotch-prone stock, stain applied, poor result. Already sanded once and presumably little skin remaining for second sanding – high sand-through risk. Desired state: more even result, presumably fairly dark while minimizing spend. Yes? So, what’s the lesson learned so far? That’s right... When the can says to try it on a non-visible section of the furniture... They mean it... OK, let’s see what we can make happen... First of all, let’s determine what you stained it with... Can you post the products used? Some
  23. Trip

    New toy!

    ==>You don't resaw with a table saw. I've seen Greg Paolini do it, but I agree: get a bandsaw. He saws 80% on the TS and the last remaining with a small bandsaw or handsaw... The table saw method works, but it also looks like an accident waiting to happen... I suspect you could get away with it for years, then get a sudden kick-back... You are much safer with the bandsaw...
  24. ==>The photo appears to show a bull-nose edge, if I see it right I see a radius (maybe 1/4 round) -- which I've done before... Takes some care (and I used a softener), but it worked fine... Looking at the photo again, I see how the right side looks more like an ogee... The project job becomes more like a hand hammered veneer repair (of which I've done plenty)... Still very doable, but more time and effort involved... A photo or sketch of the profile would help... And some idea of scale... If it's a gentle radius profile, that's one thing... If it's a tight radius ogee bull-no
  25. ==>increase the footprint in my shop by storing my mortising machine and replacing it with a domino If you have the discretionary spend and don't do a lot of A&C, then it's a no-brainer. The domino is one of the few game-changing woodworking tools introduced in the last decade. Your only decision should be the 500 or 700... That comes down to the size of your pieces... If you've got the cash, get both. If you build mostly full-sized pieces, then the 700 (you can purchase the smaller cutters for the 700 from Seneca tools)... Happy mortising... PS After getting