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About Kevmc

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster
  • Birthday February 25

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  • Gender
  • Location
    San Francisco bay area
  • Woodworking Interests
    Cabinet making, building out my shop
  1. If you are looking to build a rollercoster for you grandson, look no further that ! That's exactly what he has been working on for his kids for quite some time.
  2. Nice progress. I am building two chairs too. Definitely a very challenging project. I have the arms installed on two of the sides and just need to cut the mortises on the two other arms then on to installing the slats. I have definitely improved my hand tool skills already with a few hand cut tenons as well as a lot of chisel work. I made a pretty bonehead move by installing an arm on backwards which required me to make a new arm, back leg and two Side rails. I am thinking about a few design changes. I think I will make the side slats out of walnut for some contrast. I am also thinkin
  3. Thanks for the info. I have never heard of the wood bank. Will definitely be paying them a visit soon especially if I keep making mistakes with my chair build.
  4. I have read that a system uses the least power when all blast gates are closed and that running a cyclone with no pipes or all blast gates open increases the risk of overheating so if that is the case having a bunch of leaks could do it however I have a hard time believing you would have so many leaks as to overheat the motor. Maybe get an infrared thermometer and monitor the motor for ten minutes. If it's not the sensor could you have a bad bearing that is contributing to the heat problem
  5. I just got a pretty good deal on a new Powermatic 15HH planer and have two questions. The Powermatic version of the digital read out gauge is $150. Is the powermatic version worth 3X the wixey version. Are their any substantial benefits other than perhaps making it a bit easier to install? And on the build in mobile base, I have a rather uneven garage floor. How well do those wheels work on such a surface. Will the wheels get stuck in the expansion joint that I will have to roll it over each time I Want to use it. Thanks in advance.
  6. These are good ideas. I am first going to mill up a replacement and see how noticeable it is. If that doesn't work I will probably cut out the offending area and glue in a replacement. Since the cutout would only be about 2 inches long and less thank an inch wide and it's in the middle layer of the laminate it should work fine. I can also position the arm so the repair is located towards the back of the arm in the inside. I will also check where the holes for the pins that support the back will be drilled. I might be very luck and most of the defect is right where a hole is drilled.
  7. I am all set on gluing up my laminates as soon as I glue arrives but when I prepared my stock I have some defects in one of the middle laminates on the side where their is some missing wood and discoloration. I can deal with the discoloration and the defects may be jointed or cut off when I size the arms to the right width but looking at the piece of wood, I am not totally sure about that. Do you guys have any recommendations for filing the gaps on the edge of the arms. this is in no way structural and there are no gaps between the laminates, just the edge of one of the boards. Can I m
  8. Thanks guys. I notices that I had the clamp very uneven. 1 end was almost bottomed out and the other was very high so that probably contribute to the problem. Plus I kept sharpening on a rough stone to get the last part of the bevel and that made the skew even worse. Having said that even with a proper tightened clamp on the jig the blade is not all that secure. I think I will just start practicing freehand sharpening In the long run it's faster which means I will sharpen more frequently which means I don't need a lot of strongest
  9. I saw a link to an indiegogo campaign to save a really cool woodworking school in Texas on rennasaince woodworker. I watched a few videos and think its a really worthy cause and the owner/instructor seems very dedicated to the school and making it a success. He is getting close to his goal. Here is the link Definitely a good cause to pay it forward. I really like how he links woodworking with science math and physics
  10. looking for recommendations on sharpening a shoulder plane. I am using the verities sharpening jig but i just can't get the jig to hold the blade firm enough probably because its so narrow where its under the bar that holds it. I have a razor\ sharp skew chisel now. This is twice in a row!. Any recommendations. I just reground the blade square and sharpened free hand and it seems sharp enough but if you have any ideas on how to better use the veristas jig or another jig I would much appreciate it. I have a ton of shoulders to clean up with my new LN shoulder plane and my inability t
  11. I am using cherry so you think I can just use unibond medium and that should be good from a color perspective
  12. Many thanks for the advice, especial HHH. I really appreciate the time spent responding. if i decide to use a vacuum press, I am ok with unbind or DAP, right?
  13. I want to be ready for the glue up. What glue should I get. I see all kinds of recommendations from titebond to unibond 800 urea formaldehyde glue. Thanks
  14. I need to clean up the tenon cheeks on the front legs a bit. what is the best approach. I was going to use my low angle rabbit plane but am worrying about blow out in the ends of the tenon which would be really bad given its a through tenon. typically i would chamfer the ends to lessen the blow out but won't that impact the look of the tenon when it shows through? Do I just plane from each end towards the middle?
  15. macbeths has a ton of 5/4, 6/4, 8/4, 12/4 and 16/4. most of the 16/4 was huge but i found a great piece that was 8 feet long and and 7 in wide which was just enough to get all 8 legs. The SF branch had more and better quality than berkeley. the only downside is it wasn't cheap.