Jwest

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About Jwest

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Centralia, WA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Just starting out. Only thing not really interested in is wood turning.

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  1. The first plane I bought was a Veritas and the second one was a LN. I feel the Veritas is a good plane, and I don't have anything really negative to say about them. For me, I just think the LN is a better plane. It came out of the box needing little to no prep, while my Veritas needed some initial work. I feel I get better results with my LN plane, but that could be the user! Also, the level of customer service from LN has been outstanding. I accidentally dropped my block plane and bent the spin wheel. When I called LN to purchase a new one, they sent me a new one free of charge and it arrived quickly. That's one of the reasons I will continue to buy from them. I'm sure it's a comfort thing, but I love all my LN tools.
  2. It is about 8 to 12 months old. Can't really remember the exact date of purchase. Haven't used it a ton, since most my time has been spent on other things lately.
  3. I'm going to try. And then if they let me exchange...I will make sure and register this one. Man, don't know why I always forget to do that.
  4. Thanks hhh, I'll do some checking when I get back to the shop. I'm guessing though that it might be the tool. Sounds like several people have had the same exact issue that I'm talking about. However, who knows, but I will check the voltage drop and see what I get.
  5. It is plugged in at the end of the circuit. I didn't have anything else running. I know that outlet works, but maybe it's too low a voltage at the end of the circuit where I have it plugged in? I'll have to try plugging it in further up I guess. I will get fluke and check it out as well. I do have two separate circuits, but maybe I have too many outlets on each one or the runs are too long. Hopefully it's not toast yet, and it's just a matter of plugging into a different outlet, but I've used it there for awhile now. I dunno.
  6. Do you remember what the issue was? I just happened to read some reviews of people complaining about the same type of thing I'm experiencing. Unfortunately, I don't have the receipt or box anymore. If it's the motor, I think I'm in trouble since I don't believe they sell replacements. If it's a relay, that's only 20 bucks. I'm not the most electrical savvy person, so not sure if that's even a potential issue. Kinda bumbs me out, since I bought this one based on a FWW article and this is the second one to do this to me (forgot to mention that in the top, I just thought it was something I was doing wrong). I know lots of other people have no issues with them though, so not trying to bad mouth the product.
  7. I'm going to say the buzzing sounds like a 60HZ hum. I haven't been able to find any evidence of binding. I cleaned it thoroughly before trying to start it up again. Also, I should say that I smelled what I'll call an hot electrical smell; faint, but present. It turned fairly easily, so I guess my impression was that I didn't think it was binding. Correct on the third question. All I know is that the manual lists it as an A-C motor. The only part I can replace seems to be the relay. Not sure if that would potentially be the cause.
  8. Forgive me if I'm starting a thread that currently exists, but I didn't see it during my search. I'm having some trouble with my ridgid oscillating belt/spindle sander, and I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this. Hopefully you have a suggestion for a fix out there. Basically, when I turn on the sander it makes a buzzing noise like the motor is trying but cannot turn the spindle. I've tried without the belt attachment or a spindle, and still no luck. Initially, I was able to give it a little help, and it would take off. Now, though it doesn't seem to help. I had this happen on a previous one and returned it, and then new one I got seemed fine until now. The only thing I can say that I might have done was that I had a pancake air compressor running at the same time I was trying to start it up. They were both plugged into the same circuit, 20A circuit. I turned off the air compressor, and got the sander going with a little help. That was a few days ago, today no luck starting it with nothing else going. I thought that circuit was enough to handle both, but ,maybe not. I do have two separate 20A outlet circuits in my shop FWIW. Any thoughts? Thanks for the feedback.
  9. I am considering the spray foam idea. I guess where I'm unsure is best method for doing that. Should I frame it in and the spray foam directly onto the vinyl? Tear all the vinyl out, then frame and spray foam? That would be a lot of messy work btw.
  10. Congrats on the shop! I have a similar shop, in that it is a metal pole building. I don't think I'd have chosen those colors though, being a Michigan fan . The shop was already built when we purchased the house. They used a vinyl fiberglass insulation between the girts and metal siding. It's nice but I'm looking to improve the insulation and so forth. I find that it's fairly cold and a little damp in the winter and hot in the summer. I'm thinking of framing in everything between the 6x6 support posts and putting up plywood walls on the interior. Any suggestions on the best way to go about insulating that? Did the contractor on this build have options for that? I guess I could just put up studs and batt insulation, but wondering if that is the best method for a building like this. My other thought was osb against the vinyl, studs, batt insulation, and then plywood walls. Just curious if anyone has thoughts on that, or what others have done. Again, congrats on the shop. It looks great.
  11. Ok, maybe this is a totally dumb question, but I'll ask anyway. Could you expand on what you mean by "Pick one 220v plug configuration and make everything standardized."?
  12. So, this was a long time coming, which is obvious by posting dates...but I finally got the shop electrical done. I save up and hired a contractor my company uses for all of it's electrical needs. He came out yesterday and installed a new 100 amp panel with plenty of slots, for a relatively fair price I thought. I used a lot of input from this blog in my decision making process so thanks for the advice. Also, I'm taking pictures of where everything is and laminating them for future reminders. I thought that was a great idea. I'm pretty pumped now. The elctrician said I really had less than 30 amps with the old set up. I guess it was tied into the panel my well pump is on. Now I have dedicated 100 amp service and he made it so I can connect my well to this panel if something ever happend to the line going to the well. Not sure if that made sense, but seemed like an added bonus. Now i just have to figure out what new tools to get. Those outlets look so lonely.
  13. Good to know, thanks. I did call SW and inquired about a spray stain. I don't know if it's just my local store, but they always seem to either not understand or say that I can't do that. I asked about a matching a spray stain to that color, and they didn't seem to think they could do that. I told them I'd be using an HVLP Earlex system, but they were telling me that's not the way to apply stain. I did explain what I was trying to accomplish, but that didn't really affect the outcome of our conversation. Anyone know more detail on the brand or what-have-you of spray stain I should be after? Just trying to get some more details so maybe I can help them out a bit. I do think I'll try the spray stain first.
  14. When you say "spray stain", I'm guessing it's something formulated for my HVLP? Also, what are the pitfalls with transtint in shellac that would require me to get a lot of practice? Just curious since I've never tried it before. Sorry to bombard you with questions, but why would the spray stain not have blotching issues? Thanks for your help.
  15. Hello All, I was wondering if anyone has added transtint to shellac or a pre-cat lacquer to add color to your project that way. Here is my reason for asking. We moved into a new house a little while ago and a lot of the trim and doors look like the attached picture (more red-brown than the yellow-brown in the pic), but some rooms just have a cheap white trim and doors. I want to start replacing the cheap stuff with trim that matches the rest of the house. I would like to spray the unfinished trim in large batches to cut down on time. Also, the trim is hemlock which can be prone to blotching. I was thinking that I could spray a coat or two of clear, then a coat of the color, then a coat of clear. I thought that might help keep from blotching. I do have some of that blotch control Marc recommends, but I wanted to cut out those steps. I'm open to changing my method though if someone has a better idea on how to quickly and easily match the trim. I'm still new to the stain/dye thing. I tend to keep wood natural in my projects, so any thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks.