Stephens_Shop

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About Stephens_Shop

  • Birthday 10/26/1963

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver, BC
  • Woodworking Interests
    General and Instruments (Violin)

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    celtic-fiddle

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  1. Thanks I think I will follow your advise. SF.
  2. If I am going to shorten my bench to six feet, should I take most or all of the length from between the stretchers, outside the stretchers off each end or equal amount from outside and between the stretchers?
  3. Konkers... thanks for asking this question and those who responded as this is my exact situation. I have to get a good saw for doing the dovetails but was not sure where to start. This stream has got me pointed in a few good directions. I am off to Lea Valley next weekend to see what they have ans suggest but typically they are top end pricing.
  4. I am leaning towards a full glue-up as I do not anticipate moving again (I sure hope I am right on that one). The bench is going to be heavy but I should think that if a move is in order I could move it along with the rest of the equipment in my shop and use it to hold boxes of all my other tools etc. I just don't want to have to go around and tighten up the joints as they work loose. This may be more of a concern in my situation as I intend to build with Douglas Fir which is softer than Maple or the SYP options.
  5. I got myself a gallon of Titebond Extend so I will have some left over and will not run out of time during the project glue-up. The Extend allows for a bit more time to get the top aligned as it is a slower setting version of their glue. I just don't want to feel pressed for time while gluing things up.
  6. Well for such a new guy to all of this I want to thank everyone. I am learning a ton in terms of strategic approach and what to potentially expect. I just got my Duglas Fir into the shop and it is already within .5 - 1% of the moisture content of all the wood thats been in their for 6 months plus. I do like the idea of rough dimensioning one boardo see how it moves so I understand how to use the wood to support stability. Stephen.
  7. Well I too finally dropped some coin on lumber for the build. Douglas Fir (DF) kiln dried to about 7% moisture the same as everything sitting in my shopfor over a year. not a single knot and it is nice and true. now I do have to mill it but I expect it will remain straight, QUESTION: any experence with dogs in Walnut? I may highlight the DF benchtop with Walnut and was thinking about having my dog holes in the strip that would be walnut. Any wood properties that raise a concern that I should be aware of?
  8. Welcome to the build... There seems to be a lot of us on this one. Stephen.
  9. Tom & Eric, thanks for the above clarification. The videos should be as or more informative than the others on the free portion of his web site. I like the idea of lagging behind to gain from the knowledge of those who feel more familiar with this type of build and forge ahead. Tom, I hope your recovery is quick so you can get back at the build. Stephen.
  10. So I am 100% all in but I would like to better understand how things will go when the build begins. Jan 2 is the "go date", so... Do we all bring our computers into the shop and build live with Marc? I know there are videos of all the steps are they posted on Jan 2? How exactly does a guild build go? The reason I am asking is that I am going to be off work the 1st week or so in January and want to know just what am I going to do to go along with the build during the first 1 or 2 weeks. Stephen.
  11. Thanks for the info. I am still considering it but it could also be a retro fit after I try the bench as it is in the plans. I have never used a deadman nor really had a good bench so perhaps I should stick with the plans and then retro if I find I have the need. Thanks.
  12. Hi Mark, I am a relatively new wood worker and joined after watching almost all of your videos and then finding out that the next build is the roubo workbench! CONGRTULATIONs on the new family addition... Being a dad is very cool. I have a 15m old. I cannot seem to get an answer to a question I have about the build. I read Christopher Schwarz book Workbenches and came across the English benches 20 degree angled leg vise. Chris had a few good things to point out about it, mainly that you can get a solid 8" of clamping surface on long board (boards extending down to the floor). The reason being that the vises screw is off-set by the angle so it ends up out of the way. I would like to know the advantages and disadvantages of this leg clamp over the upright style. Also would it be possible to effectively install the roubo leg vise on the 20degree angle by building out to the right at the top of the leg and to the left at the bottom of the leg. I would really like a bit of guidance and suggestions on this one. Here is the concept I have in mind but it is on an A-framed English bench (I am not a fan of that huge apron) Thanks, Stephen.
  13. Here are two photographs taken from Christopher Schwarz's book that capture the 20 degree leg vise that he discusses as having greater ability to clamp longer boards (down to the floor) at a full 8" wide. The angle shifts the head of the clamp out of line wiht the screw allowing for full open space between the jaws and the floor. This is the modification I am thinking about additn to my Roubo on the leg vise. I do not want to angle the leg so I was wondering if you could build it out to the right up top and to the left on the bottom to correspond to the angle. Any suggestions on how to accomplish this easily but also with some strength? Stephen.
  14. Never having used much of a bench before I started to read Workbenches (PopularWoodworking) by Christopher Schwarz. There is one style of bench where all the legs are at 20 degrees and he makes a point to state "an ideal angle: a leg that's angled at 20 degrees can grip wide boards all the way to the floor. " The one he shows can handle up to 8" wide - perfect for most drawers. From what I can tell is that by having it angled you can clamp a board to the leg all the way to the floor as the screw is to the left and the clamping paddle is hanging to the right... they are not in line with one another. It just seems to me you would be able to clam a greater variety of boards but was hoping for someone with experience to tell me what they thought. Stephen.