• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by mikem

  1. mikem

    Miter saws

    As with most machines, but miter saws especially, you get what you pay for. I bought a 10" Craftsman miter saw years ago, and paid under $200 for it. I bought it before I really got into woodworking deep, and it is great for the projects around the house. Fast forward today, I rarely use it. The accuracy for the saw just isn't there. I have a decent table saw, that I got a good miter gauge for it, as well as made a large crosscut sled. The problem with saw is there is just too much play in it. I can make one cut and it be spot on, and make another cut, where it is off a bit.
  2. mikem

    Rust protection

    For hand tools, I build a cabinet for them last year. I have found that keeping the doors to the cabinet closed helps a lot with the changes in temperature. If that still isn't helping in your case, here is a product that will help keep the humidity out of a hand tool cabinet: http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=53828&cat=1,43326 For your cst iron topped machines, I use paste wax. In fact I just put a fresh coat of it on all my cast iron tops. There is also boeshield. I personally didn't care for the product, but there are many who love it. WD-40 has been used as well.
  3. It may just simply mean no one here has used one. Doesn't mean the fence itself isn't good. Do you have links/pics of the fence you are interested in?
  4. I haven't used camellia oil, but have used Jojoba Oil, which has similar qualities. I wouldn't use it on any my machines, but use it frequently on my hand tools.
  5. You can file those tabs off, but if you don't want to modify the saw, make a hardwood runner T-Shape so that it fits the slot. It maybe a little more tricky attaching to the sled, but once you get in place, it should work well.
  6. Was it sad that I too was thinking how this would be a great Frank Howarth stop animation?
  7. Congrats on the saw! My 113 has served me well the past 4 years, and suspect it will for awhile. Since you got it with a better fence, I think you did pretty well with price.
  8. Be careful about the tax aspect of this here. If your business is classified as a hobby business, you are actually very limited to what you are able to deduct.
  9. Welcome, and congrats on the new shop space!
  10. Another way to do it. I used guide bushings when I made my template, and then recess for the plate itself. The measurements here are critical. For all operations I used a 1/4" spiral router bit. Using the plate as a guide (I actually made a copy of the plate out of 1/2" mdf) use a 1/2" OD guide bushing to create the template. This took a couple passes to make the complete through cut. Router direction is key here, make sure you are moving the it in a counter clock wise direction. This will help keep the guide against the plate. To make the recess, I switched the guide busing to a
  11. It sounds like you have a lot of work a head of you. A couple things. Take a class for woodworking, even if it is one at your local Woodcraft. If you are doing this as profession, and still just learning, it won't hurt to get some direct help from guys how have been doing this for years. Next, rethink your dust collection solution. You have a lot of machines that generate a lot of dust. With what you propose it either sounds like you will have a dedicated collector at each machine, or be moving a smaller one between machines. Option 1 is going to get very expensive, and Option 2 is g
  12. I use the guide bearings on my Grizzly as defined by the instructions, with the side bearings just barely touching the blade. I make sure the blade is centered on the blade, and the bearing wheels are behind the the teeth of the blade. As long as the blade is sharp I get no drift. Further, this weekend I was working on a project that long story short I had to slightly thin a board to a half way point. The off cut was 1/32" thick.
  13. When it comes to buying tools, I learned the hard way to buy the best you can afford. The exception is router bits. When I got my first router I got a 50 bit set from Yonico. No they aren't the best, and they did dull quickly. However, when asked, I still recommend getting one of these sets to get started, for two reasons. 1. I would much prefer to see someone put their money towards a good router, and a kit is an inexpensive way to get started using this. 2. These bits are good to practice with 3. It answers the question as to which bits you are going to use most frequently. As
  14. The incra inserts are not aluminum, but are steel. I thought about that issue for awhile as well. First, I always make sure that I choose an insert that the whole bit will go through. Following that guideline, just about the only way a spinning bit can come in contact with the insert is if the bit breaks. At that point, you have bigger issues. The insert is held by 4 rare earth magnets and perfectly fits the opening. There is zero chance the insert can come loose during operation of the router. Strictly technically speaking, it is possible to get the inserts out without a tool, but u
  15. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2080327/28906/Rikon-10-Bench-Top-Bandsaw-Model-10-305.aspx For someone with limited space and looking for a band saw, this looks like a winner to me.
  16. mikem

    Magnetic switch

    For machine switches in general, Grizzly has one of the best selections out there: http://www.grizzly.com/products/category/275010
  17. Fyi, many of the router plate makers have adapted both the Woodpecker (PRL-V2) and Jessem (Mast-R-Lift II) which lets you get both the lift and the plate you want. I went with the PRL-V2 with incra plate, and other than some shipping issues, the lift is great. Woodshouter, actually the power switch I have on my router table, the cables com out the bottom of the box as well. I ended up putting a false front on the router table to hide the wires.
  18. I am glad to see I am not the only one who put the power switch sideways!
  19. I also liked the wood pecker, as it looks cleaner without visible screws.
  20. Most brands have a the dual track. The woodpecker's design is a little different with how it attaches to the top, which is why I went with them http://www.woodpeck.com/combotrack.html
  21. Get the best table saw you can afford. Personally, I would stay away from the cheap ones....You will end up paying more in the long run buying another saw.
  22. Looking at the Kreg router lift I realized... It is actually Woodpecker's PRL-V2 lift, basically the same one I have. The difference is that it has a Kreg plate (similar to mine has an Incra plate) rather than a woodpecker plate. You will not go wrong with that lift.
  23. Before I got my 14" Grizzly, I had an older Ryobi 9" band saw. It wasn't a bad machine. It cut MANY pinewood derby cars for workshops we hosted for cub scouts, as well as many of my own personal projects. When I went to the 14" it was because I had out grown the saw. The point being, is that I personally feel that a band saw is that if you need to go cheep on, you can still function with it. Just know its limits. In fact I have known of folks who have larger band saws who also end up buying a smaller 9 or 10 inch band saw, and use dedicate them with a thin blade.
  24. For my router table, I went with Woodpecker. The reason being is that I like their combination t-track/miter slot. My old router table used t-track from Incra. Both brands accept 1/4" 20 bolts heads as well. For me, that is the priority, is that it fits a standard bolt head. Most brands do.
  25. It really depends on what you use them for. The original grr-ripper is great for the table saw, and probably overkill for the jointer, router table and bandsaw. The Grr-rip block is perfect for those machines, but I wouldn't recommend it for the table saw. I have one of the original for the table saw, and two blocks to use at the other machines. I would like to add another grr-ripper for the table saw.