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Everything posted by mikem

  1. The screws simply made it easier to clamp the two piece together. I still ended up clamp the perimeter and putting weight in the middle where there were no screws. The glue is what does the work long term.
  2. I used the glue and screw method that Norm described for both the tops I built. It works well. The table I finished building earlier this summer I put a lift in it. I got the Incra version of the PRL-V2. Yes, it is expensive, but all the benefits it provides makes it WELL worth it.
  3. ++++1million on Muterspaw. From Westerville, you are about an 1.5-2 hour drive from him. Also check out Woodwerks. They have two locations, one in Columbus and one in Polaris. Go to their Columbus location. Woodwerks sells lumber as part of their over all store, and they have a good selection, but Muterspaw is nothing but lumber, and has a great selection. He has 3 barns full of wood. Muterspaw prices are good, I haven't looked closely at Woodwerks prices as its not convenient for me to buy wood from them. Also check out Muterspaw's specials. I took advantage of his 100bdft of 6' l
  4. Didn't realize the trunk was already cut up. Not sure at this point how much usable wood you will be able to get out of it now, unless it is going to be used for turning, or a rustic table top.
  5. I fear there may not be much usable material left. Trees tend to rot from the inside out, so there is a chance it could be mostly hollow on the inside. The next issue is the termites. You will want to get the treated before even dreaming of using it any material from it. You will for sure want to run those pieces through a kiln if you do attempt anything with them.
  6. I was thinking the same thing. How are you going to be using the piece? The way the project over all is designed can help take that bow out. A piece that long will have some flex to it.
  7. Not to discount Tim, while he is correct about the warranty, those saws are in a completely different league of table saw then the cast iron saws he is considering. The craigslist saws are cast iron tops, with belt driven motors, and far better made then the plastic bodied saws that are going for new.
  8. The nick was likely caused by a piece of metal embedded in the wood, or even a small rock/pebble. I learned the hard way to never set my rough stock flat on the floor, as I had the same happen with my planer. The knives are so thin on lunch box planers, it really doesn't take much to get a nick in them, alas.
  9. Here is one that looks like it needs some cleanup, but is a fair price, and looks to be belt driven. I would make a better stand for it for dust collection purposes. http://columbus.craigslist.org/tls/4625323870.html
  10. The one in Pickerington is direct drive. The way you can tell from the pics is the throat insert. All belt drive table saws from craftsman (including current models) use a pill shaped throat insert (rounded on both ends) where the direct drive models are bullet shaped (round on the end towards the user, square towards the back of the saw). Also the direct drive saws have the internal switch on the saw body, where the switch for belt driven saws is usually hanging off the fence rail. (Not always true, but gives you a place to start) As another issue, missing the right wing is a big turn of
  11. Most of the craftsman 113 series table saws were belt drive, but they did have one or two models that were direct drive, which is what it sounds like you have. I bought a 113 belt drive table saw about 4 years ago, and put a new fence and wings on it, as well as few other updates. The saw has done its job well for me, and I have completed many projects with it. I paid $100 for the saw itself, and around another $300 (over time) to get it to more current standards Here in south west Ohio, they are fairly common on Craigslist. I don't check the Columbus region too often, but when I have, I
  12. mikem

    New in Ohio

    I know the Westerville area well! I have family that lives up that way and we are up there several times a year.
  13. I have replaced my belts with link belts as I have gone. However, I have been told that just about any automotive store will likely have the belts you need.
  14. I have had blades come coiled inside out. I can see how someone could easily install a blade upside done as a result.
  15. Tiling isn't hard. Don't tile on OSB though, that is not a good underlayment for it. If you don't have a concrete floor, use cement board, or that new tile underlayment that that home depot sells. I bought a tile saw a number of years ago, and it has been worth its weight in gold. It looks like a small table saw, and wasn't expensive. (Mine was made by MK Diamond) Hometime did a really good series many years ago on installing tile. It might be worthwhile trying to dig up those episodes
  16. Well done! That is way too nice to keep in the shop!
  17. mikem

    New in Ohio

    Welcome Collin! What part of Ohio are you from?
  18. Something isn't right then. I use a 6TPI blade, and while it does require cleanup, the saw marks are nowhere near that severe, even with some of the resawing I have done with it. As others have said, make sure your feed rate isn't too slow. You will be able to tell if your feed rate is too fast, as long as you don't force it. Also check to make sure the tension on your blade is correct.
  19. Agreed on the Bosch 1617, I have one in a table, and one for freehand use. It has done everything i have asked of it without complaining.
  20. Looks great, very well done! Also, I think you need another lathe!
  21. It is simply called "cutlist" Here is a link to download it: https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/cutlist
  22. The number one thing I do when I look at any CMS in a store is check the stops to see if there is any amount of play in them. There are only a handful of saws I have found that have no play in them at all. Those are on my short list of when, someday, I decide to actually buy a new CMS/SCMS. I have read through the CMS vs. Table Saw debates for awhile. The one variable is that most of the low-end CMS just are not precise enough to make accurate cuts for furniture. Case in point, I have a 10" Craftsman CMS that when I swing to 90*, there is a lot of play within the stops. Getting it to
  23. except for maybe some paste wax to help jigs slide easier, I never put any finish on them.
  24. If you use sketchup, there is a real nice cutlist plugin for it.