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Everything posted by mikem

  1. When I went to go look at the saw I bought, I brought a combination square and some hardwood with me. I checked to make sure the blade was square to the table, and was parallel to the miter gauges. With the seller's permission, I made some test cuts with it. I checked to make sure the cut was square to the face at several points and that the piece was at the dimension I intended. The biggest risk with older saws is that there maybe a lot of runout which may or may not be noticeable, so it comes down to the quality of the cut left behind. If the seller doesn't want you to make a cut,
  2. The table saw I would love to have in my shop would be SawStop PCS 3HP. Alas, before that can happen I would need to upgrade the house service as well as wire a subpanel out in the shop.
  3. I don't usually link back to my blog for these posts, but my entries on my recent router table build may benefit you. I went all out for this build and the table is an absolute joy to use. http://sawdustnewbie.com/category/projects/2014/router-table/
  4. What is your long term goal with saw? I personally do not like jobsite/worksite saws for woodworking. I had one for years that when I bought it I needed it more for home DIY stuff, and was also lured into the fact it could fold and be carted away. When I got more serious into actual woodworking I found its limitations all too quickly. The biggest issue that forced me to replace it was the table developed a hump over time from being stored on its side. It was located just so that I could never be certain I could get a 90 degree cut to the table. If money is tight and you need a TS rig
  5. I have been away from the forum for a few days being sick, so I am just now getting caught up on some of the older posts. I have at this point built two router tables, both from 2 layers of MDF. The first top was 3/4" and 1/2" MDF layered together, then second top used 3/4" for both. I glued and screwed them together and then squared up the whole thing after the glue dried. Both tops were then edge banded with a hard wood, whatever I had laying around. The the last step a layer of formica on the top. This has made a real nice surface for my router table tops. The first one lasted me 9+
  6. I-O! Always good to see another from Ohio on the board! Welcome!
  7. Looking at the work piece, it looks like you were free handing on the router table, which is a very unsafe operation. Looking at it further, it looks like you were doing one big through cut which is too big of a bite. Without realizing it, you probably got yourself in a climb cut situation (the danger of free hand table routing) and the force of the full depth cut is what sent your piece flying. If I were making a handle cut out on a work piece, I would make a template out of MDF or hardboard. Position the template on the work piece where you want the handle cut out to be, and draw a li
  8. I have a 5" 25TPI Gramercy rasp. I love it. The difference in quality of rasps isn't as much as the quality of the metal. While that is important, the quality of the rasp is all about the stitching. Both Auriou and Gramercy rasps are hand stitched, which means the pattern is more randomized. This results in less of a pattern developing in the wood while being shaped. The stitching on these rasps also go all the way to the edge, allowing you to work in tighter areas.
  9. While the idea sounds good in principle, it rarely works out that way and you usually end up loosing a lot of money. I would try to charge a fair price at the get go.
  10. I would let it go a few hours. Over night would be best.
  11. I ran a $50 set of Dado blades for a few years, and had similar results. I have the Freud SD208 dado set, and I am very happy with them. The difference between the SD208 and the SD508 I know of is the chippers on the 2 only have two wings, where the 5 have 4.
  12. I am with Roger and JWatson on this one. I don't think Roger ever meant to say sharp tools are important, we all know they are. Preventing a catch is all about technique. In fact some of the worse catches I have had were immediately after sharpening.
  13. I have always had mine on 3100 RPM, have not seen a need to slow it down.
  14. It WAS an educational show, but like other DIY shows it has become more entertainment than useful. I hardly ever watch TOH anymore.
  15. I am not sure I have seen a commercial version of these. They are very easy to make, about 15 minutes with scrap.
  16. I bet you could get woodpecker to make some special size pads for the prl-v2, or even have a machine shop mill them for you.
  17. Actually, they do have 1 model 14" that has 1.5HP motor, the G0555X. http://www.grizzly.com/products/14-Extreme-Series-Bandsaw/G0555X
  18. Yeah, there are a bunch of rebadged versions of it out there. I actually have the Incra version as I wanted the magnetic insert rings. The main difference between the true woodpecker and the ones from the different manufacturers is the plate on it.
  19. Take a look at the PRL-V2 from Woodpecker. It uses a system of 3 aluminum pads that hold the router in the lift, and they have various sizes to accommodate different router makes. http://www.woodpeck.com/prlv2.html
  20. This really irritates me. Most of the tools for my hobby, I have purchased, both new and vintage, as well as tools i have made. I tend to buy only what I know I use and will sell what I don't need. To get my shop to the point where it is today has taken years. There is a certain passion I have put into it, and it brings me personal joy to use my tools to try to build something that I can pass on to others. That said, if I had found that situation in my own shop, I would have paid for the work completed and fired the contractor. This isn't any different to me than someone coming into t
  21. They do make 1/8" blades for 14" bandsaws, but I would only get that if I was going to do scroll work on the bandsaw. I use a 1/4" blade and it is good for most of what I do. Also I think the 1/8" blade really needs specific guide bearings to truly work well.
  22. Go for a floor model jointer. I had a bench top for a few years, and i was always adjusting and readjusting it. Anything over 30" long was near impossible to joint on it.
  23. FYI, I probably wouldn't attempt to contact Cap'n Eddie, as he has been going through some pretty serious health issues, with a lengthy recovery ahead of him.
  24. I skipped the riser on my 14" saw. I have no desire to get the riser for it at this time. I use the stock fence on mine, and use it frequently for ripping and some resaw
  25. I run a 1/4" 6TPI Timberwolf blade in my saw. I do everything with that blade, including some resaw. I echo the others, forget the 3/4" blade as you will never get it tensioned properly.