Barron

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About Barron

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Hobby, Arts and Crafts, Shaker

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  1. The Gatsby from Penn State Industries uses a 27/64 size bit. It is about the same as the Wall Street from Woodcraft. They are OK. The laser cut blanks I’ve used are fairly delicate, but you might be able to drill them out to 10.5 mm—that would give you more options. I do prefer Penn State-the blanks are already roughed up, and instructions come with each kit.
  2. I’d suggest the two sided water stones for someone starting out. A guide is very useful and there are a number of decent options out there. If you get one of the cheap “eclipse” style you might want to search out tips for improving the guide-just some file work. You can flatten your water stones with wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface 180 or 220 grit is fine. I did that for years, but I have switched to diamond stones-less mess and I don’t have to flatten. The advice to pick a system and stay with it for a while is good advice.
  3. Just looking at the image it looks like a long unsupported section hanging out between the legs and cabinet. Are there any battens under that part. It seems like that could be part of the problem.
  4. Looks good. I have a couple of CBN wheels I need to install—as soon as I finish the chair I’m working on.
  5. I’ve never had a problem with Woodslicer blades, or anything from Highland. Any company can have an occasional defective unit. Contact them and I’m sure they will make it right.
  6. You could try the dowels you can get in a test piece, apply finish and see how it looks. End grain soaks up finish, and may darken enough to give you the look you want. Brass does look good, too.
  7. I think there won’t be a huge difference as long as the blade is sharp. I’d base the cut on the planned use and look.
  8. Shellac, dries fast and seals great. Maple or walnut would look nice, but so would cherry or mahogany. Don’t know of any examples for you.
  9. I really like the Forest WW II. No problems, cuts great and when it does get dull I send it back to get resharpened. While I have the 3hp Sawstop, I do most of my rips 8/4 and above on the bandsaw. Just feels more comfortable.
  10. I think a thicker leg is the way to go. If you align the outside of the rail so that it meets the foot “edge to edge”, no one will know that the leg extends beyond the rail on the on the inside. Once you put the mattress inside, add blankets and bedspreads the inside of the leg will be almost invisible.
  11. Thanks for the clarification. Even a backer of 1/8” ply would give a lot of support. It would still flex, but wouldn’t break.
  12. You can make the tenon thicker, even up to 3/4”—leaving you with 1/8” shoulders. That would give you more strength without moving to a thicker rail. If you are working from 6/4 stock, going to an 11/4” thick rail won’t change the look much, but also give you more strength.
  13. I am having trouble understanding the problem. Is the frame a triangle? Or a rectangular frame made with three 1/2” thick pieces laminated together to give 11/2” thick sides? And when you say it has a lot of give, does that mean the joints are opening?
  14. As the owner and user of a no.7, I can say its nice to have a long plane at times. It wouldn’t be my first plane, but there is no need to apologize for having one.
  15. How will it be supported? If it is going into a dado and the bow isn’t to bad, it may be pushed into position, if it’s just on brackets, how much weight will it bear? If books, the weight of the books may flatten it. It neither works, it may be time for a new piece.