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About Barron

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    Journeyman Poster

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    Hobby, Arts and Crafts, Shaker

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  1. I believe Fine Woodworking recently did an article on steam bending.
  2. Not sure about sapele, but on some tropical hardwoods it’s good to wipe the edge with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits before glue up to clean off any oils.
  3. Not to be a troll, but why would you use a router guide bushing in a table? A guide bushing is used most often to route inside a template from above. A router bit with a bearing seems to be the way to go when routing from underneath on a table. Am I missing something?
  4. 3/4” thick might look pretty thin on a table that long, so a 1” or 1 1/4” would probably look a little better. I don’t think 6” is too much, even without breadboards.
  5. You could build this box out of the “Trex” type decking material. It would be pretty weather resistant, and the “boards” can be cut and screwed together like wood.
  6. I would use the 3/4” ply with splines, dominos, or biscuits to join the two pieces of ply. Then make the pattern with 1/8” thick boards. The final door would be 1” thick. You will probably have to cut down the hardware bolts unless you want them sticking out a ways. The door should slide easily, at least mine did (similar size, but I built with frame and panel).
  7. I have the one from Lee Valley, but I think they work the same. Set the tool onto a flat surface with the blade loosely held in the tool. The blade should be just touching the surface. Tighten down the two screws that hold the blade. Try it in some scrap. It probably won’t cut. Now start to tighten the screw in front, testing it frequently until it cuts the way you want it to. This assumes the blade is prepared correctly. There are YouTube videos that will show you how to sharpen. How much of a burr you set can also affect the cut. Good luck.
  8. Although if you pick the right woman, that isn’t an issue.
  9. I’d go with pens. A mini lathe and an easy wood tool, and a drill will get you going. You can cut the blanks with a handsaw, flatten the ends with sandpaper. A drill chuck that fits your lathe and pen chuck will make it even easier. However, depending on how complex your wedding is going to be, it’s best not to try to do too much.
  10. I do think the advice to review your pricing is actually the best. Nancy Hiller has some good posts on all the things that go into pricing work, a lot that I never would have considered. Matt Kinney also talked about this on his podcast.
  11. I don’t think it’s from freezing. They are outside, getting rained on, soaked, and then blasted by the sun for rapid drying. I don’t think there is much that will stop it or prevent it in the future. You could fill with epoxy and then refinish, but it won’t take long for the process to repeat itself. Even the “outside” woods will crack like that if exposed the weather and sun. They just don’t rot as much and resist bugs better.
  12. The Gatsby from Penn State Industries uses a 27/64 size bit. It is about the same as the Wall Street from Woodcraft. They are OK. The laser cut blanks I’ve used are fairly delicate, but you might be able to drill them out to 10.5 mm—that would give you more options. I do prefer Penn State-the blanks are already roughed up, and instructions come with each kit.
  13. I’d suggest the two sided water stones for someone starting out. A guide is very useful and there are a number of decent options out there. If you get one of the cheap “eclipse” style you might want to search out tips for improving the guide-just some file work. You can flatten your water stones with wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface 180 or 220 grit is fine. I did that for years, but I have switched to diamond stones-less mess and I don’t have to flatten. The advice to pick a system and stay with it for a while is good advice.
  14. Just looking at the image it looks like a long unsupported section hanging out between the legs and cabinet. Are there any battens under that part. It seems like that could be part of the problem.