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  1. I have used it, it works great, but I don’t know if it has longer open time than epoxy. I’ve found that if I pour epoxy onto a flat surface, the open time is longer than if I leave it in the mixing container.
  2. If you do ship lap panels you won’t lose any width, and it will still look good.
  3. The panels were housed in grooves on all four sides. I routed a groove in the center of the frame, all the way to the ends of both the rails and stiles, then just filled the gaps at the top and bottom after assembly — I didn’t think any one would ever be able to see the fix.
  4. I only have a 500 domino, and that is what I used. I think I used three or four per joint, but can’t remember for sure. I’m fact, I may have used a technique to make a large mortise, and then made my own wide domino. Either way, I think it will work.
  5. I built a door pretty much as you described. I used 6/4 pine for the rails and stiles. The panels were tongue and groove milled down to 2/4, and the angled faux braces were 2/4. I used dominos for the joinery. Held up for as long as we had the house. The sliding door hardware was designed for 8/4 stiles, but I just had to cut the bolts down. Since the doors slide, and are hung from either side of the top, the braces are cosmetic, so the direction isn’t critical, and really, there isn’t much stress on the frame. Good luck.
  6. I’d try a little stain. Stain has larger sized pigments than dye that may fill the pores enough to hide the little specs of paint. As suggested above, try it on a small area to see if it helps. Good luck.
  7. If the top photo is after the dye, what is the problem? You have done a good job of blending the sap wood into the heartwood. Once stained and finished, the sap wood should be pretty well blended in. I would probably test finish that one slat to confirm (and limit the sanding if it doesn’t work).
  8. I’ve moved my shop five times. I did the sell the saw/buy a new one once, but that was to upgrade to a Saw Stop. Since the Government was paying for the move each time we used a moving company. I never had any problems with my tools, and only minor nicks with shop furniture. Moving companies have the stuff and experience to wrap your tools, and the people to get them from the old shop to the truck and into the new shop. I did treat the cast iron surfaces, took lots of photos, just in case. My Roubo is the take down version, but it’s never been ‘taken down’, the movers just picked it up and put it into the truck. Just my own opinion, but I never considered my ‘big’ tools all that delicate, and I can realign them if I need to. Good luck with whatever you decide to do and enjoy retirement.
  9. Actually, the circ saw is spraying out sawdust, which is a known carcinogen. . .
  10. I believe Fine Woodworking recently did an article on steam bending.
  11. Not sure about sapele, but on some tropical hardwoods it’s good to wipe the edge with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits before glue up to clean off any oils.
  12. Not to be a troll, but why would you use a router guide bushing in a table? A guide bushing is used most often to route inside a template from above. A router bit with a bearing seems to be the way to go when routing from underneath on a table. Am I missing something?
  13. 3/4” thick might look pretty thin on a table that long, so a 1” or 1 1/4” would probably look a little better. I don’t think 6” is too much, even without breadboards.
  14. You could build this box out of the “Trex” type decking material. It would be pretty weather resistant, and the “boards” can be cut and screwed together like wood.
  15. I would use the 3/4” ply with splines, dominos, or biscuits to join the two pieces of ply. Then make the pattern with 1/8” thick boards. The final door would be 1” thick. You will probably have to cut down the hardware bolts unless you want them sticking out a ways. The door should slide easily, at least mine did (similar size, but I built with frame and panel).