Barron

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About Barron

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Hobby, Arts and Crafts, Shaker

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  1. Colonial hardwoods in Springfield May be able to help you out.
  2. Also, it takes courage to step up to a piece that big. Her turning is impressive, and that is a fun video to watch.
  3. Chestnut has the right idea. Use a straight grained board, for a really tight fit for the drawer, start with a board a little longer as well as taller. Oh, and make sure you mark the board before you cut so you can put it back together again.
  4. Some cuts require the removal of the guard, thin rips, for example. The Gripper is great for these cuts.
  5. Is it sharp? If it is, then it’s just cosmetic and not worth worrying about.
  6. If the tape has ever been dropped, the “hook” may be bent back, changing the reading. Also, over time the rivets that hold on the hook can loosen up, also changing the measurement. The easy answer is already listed here, just use the same measuring tool for everything and it will turn out fine.
  7. I have used edge grain, end grain, and flat sawn cutting boards for years for meat and veggies, without worrying about what I used it for previously - as long as I clean up after each use, and no problems. I will cut meat on a board after cutting vegetables without washing up, but not the other way around. You can worry about these things, but the most important thing is to wash well after use.
  8. I would screw it into the leg first. If the fit is at all tight in the leg it will be easier that way, and you don’t risk stripping the threaded insert.
  9. If it’s the one I think it is, it’s a twin. Fine Woodworking did a queen version a few years ago.
  10. Gorilla glue is good for outdoors, it’s very heat resistant so I’ve used it for storage boxes in the back of an SUV where heat can be extreme. You can cut down on the mess by using less-less glue and less water. I know some marquetry experts like to use it as well. It can be used as a finish as well.
  11. Handsaw is the way to go, but it will still make a mess-expect the sawdust to cling to your hands and clothes. A shop vac will get it off when you are done. Enjoy the new saw.
  12. Croakies or something similar. Two advantages, keeps the glasses attached and you can let them hang when you don’t need them, but the glasses aren’t sitting around in a pile of sawdust. Glad you are OK.
  13. I also think 1/4 is too thick. 1/8” or maybe 3/16” at the most. Commercial veneers are much thinner. If I was making my own veneer. I would start with 1/8” and then sand a fair amount. If it makes you comfortable, go ahead and add a similar layer on the bottom, but with 3/4” plywood I don’t think it’s needed. I would finish both sides, but really the movement causing the most problem for you is the 1/4” veneer layer. Good luck.
  14. Tape is the best suggestion, but I have found sanding with a ROS at 120 grit works better than scraping. Sand the whole slab, not just the repair to avoid divots. If you already have the divot, you need to scrape/sand amuch larger area to taper out the depression so it isn’t visable.