Barron

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Everything posted by Barron

  1. If you do ship lap panels you won’t lose any width, and it will still look good.
  2. The panels were housed in grooves on all four sides. I routed a groove in the center of the frame, all the way to the ends of both the rails and stiles, then just filled the gaps at the top and bottom after assembly — I didn’t think any one would ever be able to see the fix.
  3. I only have a 500 domino, and that is what I used. I think I used three or four per joint, but can’t remember for sure. I’m fact, I may have used a technique to make a large mortise, and then made my own wide domino. Either way, I think it will work.
  4. I built a door pretty much as you described. I used 6/4 pine for the rails and stiles. The panels were tongue and groove milled down to 2/4, and the angled faux braces were 2/4. I used dominos for the joinery. Held up for as long as we had the house. The sliding door hardware was designed for 8/4 stiles, but I just had to cut the bolts down. Since the doors slide, and are hung from either side of the top, the braces are cosmetic, so the direction isn’t critical, and really, there isn’t much stress on the frame. Good luck.
  5. I’d try a little stain. Stain has larger sized pigments than dye that may fill the pores enough to hide the little specs of paint. As suggested above, try it on a small area to see if it helps. Good luck.
  6. If the top photo is after the dye, what is the problem? You have done a good job of blending the sap wood into the heartwood. Once stained and finished, the sap wood should be pretty well blended in. I would probably test finish that one slat to confirm (and limit the sanding if it doesn’t work).
  7. I’ve moved my shop five times. I did the sell the saw/buy a new one once, but that was to upgrade to a Saw Stop. Since the Government was paying for the move each time we used a moving company. I never had any problems with my tools, and only minor nicks with shop furniture. Moving companies have the stuff and experience to wrap your tools, and the people to get them from the old shop to the truck and into the new shop. I did treat the cast iron surfaces, took lots of photos, just in case. My Roubo is the take down version, but it’s never been ‘taken down’, the movers just picked it up and put it into the truck. Just my own opinion, but I never considered my ‘big’ tools all that delicate, and I can realign them if I need to. Good luck with whatever you decide to do and enjoy retirement.
  8. Actually, the circ saw is spraying out sawdust, which is a known carcinogen. . .
  9. I believe Fine Woodworking recently did an article on steam bending.
  10. Not sure about sapele, but on some tropical hardwoods it’s good to wipe the edge with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits before glue up to clean off any oils.
  11. Not to be a troll, but why would you use a router guide bushing in a table? A guide bushing is used most often to route inside a template from above. A router bit with a bearing seems to be the way to go when routing from underneath on a table. Am I missing something?
  12. 3/4” thick might look pretty thin on a table that long, so a 1” or 1 1/4” would probably look a little better. I don’t think 6” is too much, even without breadboards.
  13. You could build this box out of the “Trex” type decking material. It would be pretty weather resistant, and the “boards” can be cut and screwed together like wood.
  14. I would use the 3/4” ply with splines, dominos, or biscuits to join the two pieces of ply. Then make the pattern with 1/8” thick boards. The final door would be 1” thick. You will probably have to cut down the hardware bolts unless you want them sticking out a ways. The door should slide easily, at least mine did (similar size, but I built with frame and panel).
  15. I have the one from Lee Valley, but I think they work the same. Set the tool onto a flat surface with the blade loosely held in the tool. The blade should be just touching the surface. Tighten down the two screws that hold the blade. Try it in some scrap. It probably won’t cut. Now start to tighten the screw in front, testing it frequently until it cuts the way you want it to. This assumes the blade is prepared correctly. There are YouTube videos that will show you how to sharpen. How much of a burr you set can also affect the cut. Good luck.
  16. Although if you pick the right woman, that isn’t an issue.
  17. I’d go with pens. A mini lathe and an easy wood tool, and a drill will get you going. You can cut the blanks with a handsaw, flatten the ends with sandpaper. A drill chuck that fits your lathe and pen chuck will make it even easier. However, depending on how complex your wedding is going to be, it’s best not to try to do too much.
  18. I do think the advice to review your pricing is actually the best. Nancy Hiller has some good posts on all the things that go into pricing work, a lot that I never would have considered. Matt Kinney also talked about this on his podcast.
  19. I don’t think it’s from freezing. They are outside, getting rained on, soaked, and then blasted by the sun for rapid drying. I don’t think there is much that will stop it or prevent it in the future. You could fill with epoxy and then refinish, but it won’t take long for the process to repeat itself. Even the “outside” woods will crack like that if exposed the weather and sun. They just don’t rot as much and resist bugs better.
  20. The Gatsby from Penn State Industries uses a 27/64 size bit. It is about the same as the Wall Street from Woodcraft. They are OK. The laser cut blanks I’ve used are fairly delicate, but you might be able to drill them out to 10.5 mm—that would give you more options. I do prefer Penn State-the blanks are already roughed up, and instructions come with each kit.
  21. I’d suggest the two sided water stones for someone starting out. A guide is very useful and there are a number of decent options out there. If you get one of the cheap “eclipse” style you might want to search out tips for improving the guide-just some file work. You can flatten your water stones with wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface 180 or 220 grit is fine. I did that for years, but I have switched to diamond stones-less mess and I don’t have to flatten. The advice to pick a system and stay with it for a while is good advice.
  22. Just looking at the image it looks like a long unsupported section hanging out between the legs and cabinet. Are there any battens under that part. It seems like that could be part of the problem.
  23. Looks good. I have a couple of CBN wheels I need to install—as soon as I finish the chair I’m working on.
  24. I’ve never had a problem with Woodslicer blades, or anything from Highland. Any company can have an occasional defective unit. Contact them and I’m sure they will make it right.