Brian VanVreede

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About Brian VanVreede

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    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 10/27/1984

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  • Location
    Bucks County Pennsylvania
  • Woodworking Interests
    Started with framing, went to finish carpentry and then I found The Wood Whisperer and now I am full blown furniture. I've only been at this for 1 year now and i am very excited about the journey ahead!

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  1. Potassium dichromate works like magic except on sap wood in my experience. Definitely an option to consider if your looking for that aged look!
  2. So, whether or not the longer bed is more accurate, do woodworkers feel there may be a market for a short bed 8" jointer? If there's a market for a short bed 12", why not make it available in the 8".
  3. Ok. That makes perfect sense to me now! So there really is no benefit of a jointer with different size in feed and out feed. Thanks Don. So let's bring this discussion back on point with " is the main reason people upgrade to an 8" jointer for bed length or cutter width?"
  4. But shouldn't the only thing that truly needs to be registered flat to the jointer is the material AFTER the cutter heads? That's what needs to be true, everything prior to the cutter heads is going to be cut.
  5. Correct me if I'm wrong, your asking how far can a board overhang the bed before it starts to sag. I think the answer to that is contingent to whether or not your face or edge jointing. If your edge jointing I would think you could overhang more than if you were face jointing. This has me all jointers have the cutter head placed in the middle of the beds and if so why? In my opinion it is easier to keep a long board registered on the in feed side when there is overhang because you are putting force down and forward and as soon as the wood passes over the cutter head you shoul
  6. Thanks for the input Steve. I wouldn't drive 45 minutes to make a couple cuts either, unless it was essential to a build. The more feed back I get here the better so I'll broaden the topic and also ask " If you own a 6" jointer what is keeping you from stepping up to an 8"? The real estate it takes up in a shop? The cost? Never had a use for a larger jointer?
  7. Trying to joint boards at the drum sander is brutal! It takes forever and burns through belts imo
  8. TR, OK I understand your need for the longer bed completely. Beautiful trim work by the way!
  9. I'm in the Philly area as well. Craigslist is filled with great options if you keep an eye out and are patient. I picked up a 16" grizzly (1990 I think) for 300$ works awesome no issues except replacing the guide block holders. If you don't want to go used I would again suggest Grizzly, they have a model below 500$ and several just above. You could also drive to Muncy Pa to avoid shipping costs. Or wait until their tent sale in May and get a really good deal!
  10. Duck, I have a 22-44 performax but that's like watching paint dry!
  11. TR, what do you use those long boards for, mill work? Crosscutting before jointing will minimize waste. But I hear ya! It becomes border line unsafe when your placing all that pressure at the back end. One slip and your hand could be minced meat! Thanks for the reply!
  12. I would deal with the hassel of an ocasional longer board to have that extra 2" jointer capacity. Could you put a percentage on how often you are actually utilizing the full length of the jointer bed?
  13. Hi everyone, its been too long since i've been on the forum . I was looking for everyones input on a product that does not exist in the woodworking market today. Im talking about a short bed 8" jointer, something that has a maximum bed length of 60". Myself, like many others on this forum are woodworkers with day jobs. We spend within our limits to make our small workshop feel like a professional shop. There are tons of threads out there titled " 6" v. 8" " this new product that im suggesting would end that debate once and for all! Now I know there people out there saying if you have a smal
  14. Thanks Chris! The reason the placement of the pull was so high, was because of the escutcheon. The escutcheon was the "fixed" point on the face of the drawer because of the type of half mortise lock that I purchased. My plan was to have the pull on the same plane as the escutcheon which resulted in the high placement of the pull. If I lowered the pull off of the same plane as the escutcheon do you think it would have looked awkward? But I do agree with you, my original plan was to have everything centered. I was just forced to adapt to the mistake I made in my original purchase of the lo