Brian VanVreede

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Everything posted by Brian VanVreede

  1. Potassium dichromate works like magic except on sap wood in my experience. Definitely an option to consider if your looking for that aged look!
  2. So, whether or not the longer bed is more accurate, do woodworkers feel there may be a market for a short bed 8" jointer? If there's a market for a short bed 12", why not make it available in the 8".
  3. Ok. That makes perfect sense to me now! So there really is no benefit of a jointer with different size in feed and out feed. Thanks Don. So let's bring this discussion back on point with " is the main reason people upgrade to an 8" jointer for bed length or cutter width?"
  4. But shouldn't the only thing that truly needs to be registered flat to the jointer is the material AFTER the cutter heads? That's what needs to be true, everything prior to the cutter heads is going to be cut.
  5. Correct me if I'm wrong, your asking how far can a board overhang the bed before it starts to sag. I think the answer to that is contingent to whether or not your face or edge jointing. If your edge jointing I would think you could overhang more than if you were face jointing. This has me thinking....do all jointers have the cutter head placed in the middle of the beds and if so why? In my opinion it is easier to keep a long board registered on the in feed side when there is overhang because you are putting force down and forward and as soon as the wood passes over the cutter head you should have the majority of the pressure on the out feed side. So if you could hypothetically make a 60" jointer act as a 72" jointer by having a 24" in feed table and a 36" out feed table. What do you guys think of that idea? Is the length of the in feed as important as the length of the out feed?
  6. Thanks for the input Steve. I wouldn't drive 45 minutes to make a couple cuts either, unless it was essential to a build. The more feed back I get here the better so I'll broaden the topic and also ask " If you own a 6" jointer what is keeping you from stepping up to an 8"? The real estate it takes up in a shop? The cost? Never had a use for a larger jointer?
  7. Trying to joint boards at the drum sander is brutal! It takes forever and burns through belts imo
  8. TR, OK I understand your need for the longer bed completely. Beautiful trim work by the way!
  9. I'm in the Philly area as well. Craigslist is filled with great options if you keep an eye out and are patient. I picked up a 16" grizzly (1990 I think) for 300$ works awesome no issues except replacing the guide block holders. If you don't want to go used I would again suggest Grizzly, they have a model below 500$ and several just above. You could also drive to Muncy Pa to avoid shipping costs. Or wait until their tent sale in May and get a really good deal!
  10. Duck, I have a 22-44 performax but that's like watching paint dry!
  11. TR, what do you use those long boards for, mill work? Crosscutting before jointing will minimize waste. But I hear ya! It becomes border line unsafe when your placing all that pressure at the back end. One slip and your hand could be minced meat! Thanks for the reply!
  12. I would deal with the hassel of an ocasional longer board to have that extra 2" jointer capacity. Could you put a percentage on how often you are actually utilizing the full length of the jointer bed?
  13. Hi everyone, its been too long since i've been on the forum . I was looking for everyones input on a product that does not exist in the woodworking market today. Im talking about a short bed 8" jointer, something that has a maximum bed length of 60". Myself, like many others on this forum are woodworkers with day jobs. We spend within our limits to make our small workshop feel like a professional shop. There are tons of threads out there titled " 6" v. 8" " this new product that im suggesting would end that debate once and for all! Now I know there people out there saying if you have a small shop but want a large jointer, go with a combo machine. Combo machines are a market all their own, i dont think someone trying to decide between a 6 or an 8" jointer is just going to say, " hey, why dont i just get a 10" combo!" Mostly all 8" jointers are 70+ inches long except for Jet who offers a 67". And there are european companies that make shorter bed 8" jointers but they are WELL out of my price range! For me thats just not doable in a 1.5 car garage. While researching I noticed that Grizzly offers a 12" dedicated Jointer with a 60" bed.....so why no 8" short bed? I brought this to Grizzly's attention today and they looked into it for me. They said there really hasnt been any intrest in a short bed 8" jointer but there may be in the future, they also said that if there were more requests it would help speed up the process of something like this coming to market. So with all of this in mind, how do you all feel about this? Would a short bed 8" jointer make the argument of 6" v. 8" obsolete? Please leave your thoughts!Together we can make this happen.
  14. Thanks Chris! The reason the placement of the pull was so high, was because of the escutcheon. The escutcheon was the "fixed" point on the face of the drawer because of the type of half mortise lock that I purchased. My plan was to have the pull on the same plane as the escutcheon which resulted in the high placement of the pull. If I lowered the pull off of the same plane as the escutcheon do you think it would have looked awkward? But I do agree with you, my original plan was to have everything centered. I was just forced to adapt to the mistake I made in my original purchase of the lock.
  15. Thanks everyone! I would also like to thank Finewoodworking.com I could not have completed this job at the caliber in which I did with out the many great articles I used. I probably used over 10 different articles. Everything from how to tune the bandsaw (Michael Fortune) to making a shooting board, to get a super tight fit on all the dividers. If you don't have an online membership with them.....GET ONE!!!
  16. Looks good! I would say $85 up to $125 depending on your demographic.
  17. When I know I won't be using it for a day or 2, I detension all the way, otherwise I keep it tensioned. If your tensioning knob is difficult to turn bc of its location, I would recommend doing the following. I saw it on FWW.com it extends the knob above the top of the BS and only costs like $5
  18. The dividers are each made from 2 pieces of yellow heart (3/16") sandwiching 1 piece of wenge (3/16"). The Veritas router plane is awesome. I use it any time I have the chance
  19. Well, here is the finished product. Its a Piston fit drawer made from Wenge and yellow heart. It was used by friends of mine for their wedding. They placed it in the reception hall so that guests could leave them notes. The box was locked that night with the bottle of wine, 2 glasses, and all of the notes people left for them. They will not open the box until their tenth anniversary! Funny story is, my brother was the best man and at the end of his "very short" speech to the bride and groom, he spent about 2 minutes talking up my box, explaining to people that I put almost 100 hours of work into it. I was a little embarassed but felt very honered that my brother (who I look up to very much) said the things he did! Anyway.....here are some of the pics. Enjoy!
  20. Nice and simple, I like it! Are you going to use it or is it strictly for decoration?
  21. Doesn't look like scrap anymore!! Awesome, what finish did you use? (Anyone else reading this thread.... please do not turn this into "what finishes are food safe" thread, there are other threads on the forum that go into GREAT detail about that topic. I am just curious in what finish Nick used.) Anyway.........I love the red in the cedar!
  22. Hey Sean, I already envy you.... Petaluma is a BEAUTIFUL place. My sisters inlaws live in Navato and I got to spend a week out there last summer.. (Petaluma is also home to one of my favorite beers, Lagunitas) Anyway, welcome to the forum and don't be afraid to ask any questions you may have! -Brian VanVreede