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About Dynablue

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Location
    San Diego
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, small lathe projects
  1. I recently saw a magazine photo of a prototype benchtop Sawstop but rumor had the price at near $1000. (this link shows the same picture I saw) I think Sawstop is countering the 'we can't make that technology available in a benchtop saw' argument although the price point would FAR exceed the price of common benchtop saws out there. Sawstop does sell a jobsite cart for their contractor saw, something that marries portability with their safety mechanism but you still have to buy the (minimum) $1599 saw in the first place and the saw is nearly 300 lbs according to their own spec sheet. I gu
  2. If you're concerned about too much direct sunlight you could use something like General Finishes Exterior 450 which has a UV blocker and mildewcides. I know they have semi-gloss but am not certain about any other sheen levels. I have seen several exterior cherry doors finished with it and they look very nice.
  3. Shellac is a very good barrier coat and non-toxic when gnawed upon. Know of a guy who had a fire in his shop and it reeked of smoke. He sprayed a coat of shellac on the walls, let the joint air out for a couple hours and no more smoke smell.
  4. A Dewalt 611 compact router combo kit, a Starrett double end square and a WW guild membership. And some soap shaped like poop from a very strange relative...
  5. As mentioned make sure you use dewaxed shellac if you want anything to stick to it. Zinsser sealcoat cans state 100% dewaxed because they process it enough to pull the 5% or so, if memory serves, of natural wax from the product. Many flakes and buttons are not dewaxed and you should always assume wax unless the container specifically states otherwise. The cautionary statement by GF is to free them from blame if your final coat peels off in nice sheets In reality I have used sealcoat under many urethane finishes and only had a problem once. Another possible defect when using shellac und
  6. While superglue will certainly work to bond skin together (who hasn't done this at least once...) there is a product called Dermabond which is less irritating to the tissue and is a modified CA. Just don't use the CA inside the wound it's really more effect to bond the surface together. And with deep cuts you should always perform some function checks ie, range of motion, strength, distal sensation and capillary refill before just slappin' on the glue and continuing to work. Doctors can be needed! Deep cuts can hit deep structures that tend to be important to future finger functioning. I
  7. The simplest way to maintain your blades is using a blade and bit cleaner to dissolve the resin buildup, scrub and then wipe the blade dry. I spray the cleaner on the blade, let it sit about five minutes and then lightly rub the resin off with a brass brush. In theory the direction of the rubbing shouldn't be an issue with soft brass but I always rub from the back of the tooth towards the cutting face. The most important aspects of the blade to clean are the sides rather than the top and face of the tooth but I clean up everything. I used to soak my blades in a simple green wash but some b
  8. I've owned a 52" Sawstop ICS for over four years (replacing a Ryobi BTS-20) and in my current job I sell various tablesaws which includes the SS. What I've noticed is that the majority of saws (well over 5:1) we sell are now SS. Retirement community woodshops, professional cabinetry courses at the local college, highschools..they're replacing their older equipment with SS. We have some folks who refuse to consider the SS because they've always used a Delta or a Powermatic or <Fill in the blank> but I refer to that as a 'Ford vs Chevy' attitude..brand loyalty over all. That isn't to
  9. Freud also uses a micrograin carbide which they claim allows for sharper blades. Smaller pieces of carbide mean the edges can be a bit sharper on the microscopic level. The fusion blade also uses a special grind on the side of each tooth, two or three facets instead of a flat side. They say this reduces heat in the cutline and allows for better overall finish on the kerf walls. The only wood I have had problems with is mahogany. The internal stresses and the interlocking grain means that I've had more binding and even some burning when rip cutting. One piece was so bad I spent an hour
  10. 48 tooth? Doesn't sound like the WWII I know. According to http://www.forrestblades.com/woodworker_2.htm it doesn't sound like one Forrest knows either Probably just a mistake on the Griz site but I would certainly call them and verify before you buy.
  11. Tommy, In general I would say that with the saw you're talking about a full kerf blade would be ideal. Thicker kerf means thicker saw plate and therefore greater stability in the cut. Thin kerf 'saving wood' is more just marketing spin for 'your 110v saw is too likely to blow a breaker or slow down too much and burn if you cut hard, thick wood with a full kerf blade'. I used a Forrest WWII blade for over a year and I loved it on my 3hp Sawstop but about six months ago I was given a Freud Premier Fusion (PF) full kerf blade and found that it makes wonderful cuts, either cross cut or rip
  12. The chest looks very nice but I do wonder why the Ol' Master Chief chose to replace the engraved phrase with the crest of a Naval Officer. As a retired Chief that sure wouldn't have been what I picked for the front