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Everything posted by alindsey

  1. I'm going to convert my Performax 16-32 to use hook and loop sandpaper. Before I apply the adhesive backed hook material to the drum I'm thinking I need to give it a good cleaning to make sure the adhesive holds properly. Question is - how to do it? My initial thought is blow the whole thing out with compressed air (outside wearing a respirator, of course) then vacuum it out and wipe the drum down with a microfiber cloth but I'm wondering if cleaning the drum with either mineral spirits or alcohol after the microfiber cloth would be a good or bad idea. I'd like to get it as clean as possible but do not want to use any cleaning agents or solvents that could damage the drum material. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Much appreciated, Allen
  2. I listed these on Craigslist but haven't had any nibbles so I thought I'd put it out here as well before I re-post. Jet DC650, older model with extra disposable collection bags - $100. Fein Turbo II dust extractor with extra collection bags - $200. Both are in good working order. The Fein has been used only in my shop to extract dust from my Festool stuff. No longer needed at this point as I have finally gotten around to buying a Festool dust extractor. The adapter used to connect the Fein hose to Festool's dust ports is included. Local pickup - Cincinnati - only. Can't ship these guys as 1) it would be cost prohibitive and 2) I'm having surgery tomorrow and will be laid up and unable to lift stuff for a while. Couple of pictures are attached. Please reply here or email me at if interested. Thanks! - Allen
  3. It could be this stuff: We sell a lot of it to turners for inlay on bowls, etc. but it can be used in flat work as well.
  4. My guess - something used to wind yarn? Either that, or a shavehorse for a gnome.
  5. I've used both, though the shop made ones tend to be more purpose-made, like a really tall one for resawing wider boards. I glued and screwed, all birch ply, a fence to a base using pocket holes then added some triangle brace pieces to keep things 90-degrees. Attaching to the table was as simple as two F-style clamps on the back side of the fence holding the base to the saw's table where I wanted it. For general purpose work, accuracy and a nice price point I'd recommend the Kreg.
  6. +1 on this. Also have used a similar product sold under a different brand: the ever so appetizingly named "Udder Butter." I dislike using it, or any kind of lotion really, on my hands as I have sensory issues but I have used it in the winter when things got too dry and cracked to stand it any more. Where it really helps me is on my feet. Probably TMI, but my feet, especially the heels, are always horribly dry and prone to cracking. Most of this is my fault as A) My feet are the only part of me that are ticklish and it seems that all of my "ticklishness" is concentrated there to where I can barely stand to touch them myself because I'll squirm, and see above regarding sensory issues. The only way I can stand to do it is to squirt some on the bottom of one foot and rub my feet together, but doing that every so often at bed time and covering my feet with socks while I sleep does help keep the dryness and cracking down. And that's more than you probably ever wanted to know about my feet, unless you really want a graphic description of a toenail fungus that I have going on as well. No? Hey, where did everyone go? I have pictures!
  7. Unfortunately it looks like I'm not going to be able to host a meetup this time around. I'm seriously bummed about it but there's a ton going on creating kind of a "perfect storm" of impediments to my hosting. The week before I've got a class to teach, two root canals and on the 28th I'm having surgery for carpal tunnel on my left hand, now that I'm recovered from the same procedure on the right. Throw into that the actual conference, which at present Woodcraft Corporate is planning to have the Cincinnati store employees man the booth at the show and I'll likely be one of the green-shirted guys in the booth, plus my son's birthday and my wedding anniversary immediately after the conference and Rob Cosman coming to the store a week after to teach, which means I'll have a crap-ton of prep work to do, one-handed and, well you get the idea. Sorry to drop this on you all so late in the game, but hopefully there is still enough time to organize at least a get-together for dinner or drinks somewhere. Whether I can make it myself remains to be seen. I don't know how in the heck that one block of time got so busy on me.
  8. If you ask 10 different guys how they do a CA finish you'll get 10 different answers. I don't use BLO or buff mine on a buffing wheel, but instead: Medium CA, one drop per barrel of the pen. With the lathe running at it's slowest speed, I put a drop on a cloth and quickly zip it back and forth on the barrel of the pen, maybe 5x back and forth. Let it dry, usually takes about 5, minutes, then repeat the process until I've built up 6-8 coats. After letting the final coat dry about 10 minutes I get the lathe on slow-medium speed and lightly go through the series of micromesh abrasives from 1500 through 12000. As long as I've allowed time for the CA to dry between each coat I get a glass-like finish that is very durable. Again, that's the method that works for me so take it with a grain of salt. Another guy in the store swears by thick CA, yet another uses the thin viscosity and applies it with the little plastic bags the pen parts come in. Still another co-worker uses only Viva brand paper towels and drizzles the glue onto the pen barrels straight from the bottle while holding the towel underneath and working it back and forth.
  9. I attach all of my Festool tools to a Fein Turbo II and it does as good of a job as the Festool CT. At the time Festool was between models, 22/32 and 26/36, and I couldn't wait for the release of the newer vacs. The only edge I'll give the Festool is the variable suction control is easier to manage (turning a knob) as opposed to Fein's control (pushing a button repeatedly to increase or decrease). One tip - Fein does make a stepped adapter that fits their hose and can be trimmed to fit the Festool tools nicely, however you will need multiples of them if you have various tools because some fit over the dust port on the tool and some inside. If you can, pick up a Festool antistatic hose. It will fit every tool without the need for an adapter and the other end goes right into the Fein Turbo like it was born to be there.
  10. They all taste like pork chops to me... I want to play with this stuff. Hopefully we'll get some in the store soon. Always looking for a better way to finish turned items, especially bowls. I've got the CA finish down on small things like pens but it's too nasty to do on anything bigger.
  11. I can't find specs on Rikon's "Universal" mini lathe stand anywhere. Trying to figure out if I can mount a Jet 1220 to it. I wouldn't have doubts about the smaller Jet because the footprint of the Rikon mini is pretty close if not a hair larger. The price is right when compared to the cost of the stand Jet makes for the 1220 but I really do not want to buy the stand and get it assembled (Rikon's instructions are horrid) only to find it won't fit and I need to disassemble it to return. Anyone out there ever put a 1220 on this stand or know of someone who has? The stand I currently have, on locking casters, does not match up with the mounting holes on the Jet which led me to bolt a 2x to the stand and the lathe to the 2x which, even at the stand's lowest setting, puts the tool rest much to high to be comfortable unless I want to stand on a box, and I'm 6' tall.
  12. Lift gate service would be about the same as the U-Haul rental. As far as the extra hassle, it's worth it to me to be sure when this thing is delivered someone will be there to sign for it. If I'm home, well that's dandy, but I'm only here 2 weekdays out of 5. Having it shipped to the store I know it will be signed for and by someone used to receiving power tools and will have some idea of what to look for on the crate in terms of any signs of damage in shipment. I'm going to do a quick couple of measurements when I get there today. If the larger of our skid loaders will fit in the bed of my truck with the jointer in there as well I can skip the U-Haul part of the equation. Just take the tailgate off so I don't snap it under the weight when I unload and get the jack on the ground and I'll be good.
  13. The Griz it iz! The order will be going in Monday or Tuesday. Since I work in a place that has a loading dock I can avoid the extra money for lift gate service. The big question is getting it home and unloaded. The shipping weight on that sucker is 800 lbs. I can get it into the bed of my truck easily enough with a pallet jack or the forklift, but getting it out when I get home... yeesh. Right now I'm considering renting the smallest UHaul I can get that still has a ramp and taking the pallet jack home with me long enough to be able to get it unloaded into my shop.
  14. Are tumbleweeds and cactus considered wood?
  15. If you want to get really persnickety, it's actually 6mm which is more or less a hair under a full quarter of an inch which is why it gets labeled that way, if it's truly Baltic Birch which is not manufactured in the states, thus the metric thickness measurement. Same holds true for the other common thicknesses. 1/2 is actually 12mm 3/4 is actually 18mm Know those "undersized for plywood" straight router bits that pretty much every manufacturer makes? Track down 6mm, 12mm and 18mm bits if you do a lot of dado work in Baltic birch. The joints will be pretty much spot-on.
  16. That would be weird since Porter Cable and DeWalt are owned by the same parent company, Black & Decker/Stanley, but nothing about legal stuff ever seems too weird to me having spent 15 years as a paralegal.
  17. Finally I have the funds to make the leap to a larger jointer. I'm leaning towards 8" but there is a 12" that is in consideration as well, mainly because it has a somewhat shorter bed and would be easier to shoehorn into my teeny shop. Basics of what I want: Helical head (do not EVER want to have to align jointer knives again) At least 8" in capacity I don't want a combo unit, really, because I'm not 100% confident in the aluminum fences they all have but I'm willing to consider it for the smaller footprint. I'm in a two car garage, but it's one car wide and two cars long and I'm already cramped for space. Currently I have a Rigid 6" jointer which has served me well for several years, but I'm tired of having to rip edges off boards on the bandsaw so I can fit them to face joint. An integral mobile base would be nice, but it's not a deal breaker. I can add a mobile base if need be. So here are the four I've narrowed it down to. Disregard prices, bc I can get employee discount pricing on the Jet stuff. Just looking for input/opinions and the merits and faults of the machines and manufacturers from anyone who may have had experiences with them. My biggest areas of concern are quality of the Grizzly machines vs. the Jet (I'm pretty familiar with Jet's machinery and have used the 8# helical before) and service after sale. We have a Walter Meier rep that we deal with at the store and they've always been great about helping out with warranty and service issues. I don't know all that much about service on machinery with Grizzly. Grizzly 8" spiral cutterhead "Polar Bear Series" Grizzly 12" spiral cutterhead with shorter 60" bed Jet 8" Helical Head Also in consideration Grizzly 12" combo unit Jet 12" combo unit And the dark-horse candidate: Powermatic 8" parallelogram with Byrd Shelix Head this is mainly only in consideration because, well, ya know - Powermatic. Plus we have one in the store which means I could satisfy my "gotta have it RIGHT NOW" impulses instead of waiting for it to be shipped. Leaning really hard towards the 12" Grizzly with the short bed. Yeah, I could get the combo unit for a few dollars more but I know my lazy self and know that I would likely keep using my 13" thickness planer to not have to fiddle with switching a combo unit between modes and I'd rather have the cast-iron fence on the 12" jointer than the aluminum fence on the combo.
  18. alindsey


    Also, topics that contain pictures of nekkid people lounging on power tools. Or heck, even just pictures of power tools.
  19. I'd have to play with it to say one way or the other, but I wonder if this is Enduro Var repackaged as Woodturner's Finish. If you're not familiar with Enduro Var, it's a water based modified urethane that gives the appearance of an oil-based finish. It's wonderful stuff for cherry and walnut especially which need the ambering effect of an oil. Usually those woods, under a regular water based urethane or polyacrylic which dries completely clear, look very cold and lifeless. Months back we had a rep from General Finishes in the store going through their product line and he mentioned that a lot of turners seemed to like using Enduro Var on the lathe. I have experimented with it myself on a few small projects, pens, little bowls, and have been pretty happy with the results. It doesn't go on like a friction polish and you do need to allow dry time, but you get a much more durable finish, especially if you like a high gloss on turned pieces. I know, straight from the GF horse's mouth, that "Salad Bowl Finish" is simply Arm R Seal with a different label. Basically he said that vendors and retailers approached them and told them Arm R Seal was growing in popularity amongst turners but that they felt they could sell more of it if it was specifically labeled as a bowl finish, so they did just that. All this makes me wonder... is the new water based Woodturner's Finish merely Enduro Var with a new label to appeal directly to turners?
  20. Hmm... tough call. Tommy's got that whole Boston tough-guy knucklehead thing going for him, but Cosman's got about 37 kids so he's probably had a lot of practice thumb wrestling.
  21. Have to throw in my 2 cents and I will qualify this by saying that I work at Woodcraft here in Cincinnati. Does Rob push his own products and the current v3 Woodriver line of planes? Absolutely and he is perfectly candid about this. He also had a very strong hand in the development of the planes and the results, having myself used old Stanley planes, rehabbed and not, as well as Veritas and Lie Nielsen planes and the previous versions of the Woodriver planes, his involvement speaks volumes. The planes perform extremely well at a cost much more accessible to the average weekend woodworker. He pushes sharpening and a very specific method of sharpening. Is it everyone's cup of tea? Of course not. Sharpening methods are as much of a "religion" as computer operating system preferences or political party affiliation. I started using his methods and have, in short order, gotten myself to the point where I can get sharp and back to work in under 5 minutes including the time it takes me to disassemble/reassemble the iron and chipbreaker and reinstall it in the plane. I teach a class on making wooden bodied "Krenov style" hand planes and we cover sharpening of the irons we use in building them. The last class I taught I had five guys who were dreading the sharpening part because of limited to no success in doing it and doing it quickly. I demonstrated Cosman's method, they tried it themselves both on Norton waterstones and my own Shapton stones and I saw five sets of eyes pop and how quick they were able to get good results. Two months ago Rob came to the store and taught his 2-day "Dovetail Degree" class and I was in the classroom both 12-hour days to assist. There were 10 students, better than half of whom had never cut a dovetail before. By the time we reached the end of the first day every one of them had cut a better looking joint than most that I've seen in the years I've been woodworking. In short, the man knows his stuff and he knows how to teach it to others. He knows what works, or at least what works well for him, and he knows how to convey that to students. In the areas where he saw tools failing the woodworker or making things more difficult than they needed to be, the dovetail saw that he makes for example, he started making them to overcome those things that a lot of people struggle with. I had a Lie-Nielsen "progressive pitch" dovetail saw for years and fought with it every time I used the thing. The first time he visited the store, this past winter, I tried his saw out extensively. Bought it that day, put my Lie Nielsen on eBay and have never regretted it. If you have met him or heard him interviewed it is easy to understand how he does at first come off as arrogant. Having spent some time with the guy, both in the classroom and hanging out, going to breakfast/dinner with him outside of the class, I can say that I don't believe he's at all arrogant, merely very confident in his abilities. He's also very outspoken about what he doesn't like and does not pull punches if prompted for his opinions on certain toolmakers and tools. Woodworking aside, he's a very pleasant, funny, intelligent and cool guy who knows where his strengths lie and does not feel at all held back to let you know it as well. That confidence is a big part of what makes him a good teacher.
  22. I use the Flexcut Gold compound to hone my chip-carving knives. One thing I've found that really improves the stuff for me is to not rub it on the leather like a crayon but instead to grate a little bit onto the leather with a cheap hand cheese-grater then add a few drops of water and work it into a paste before honing/stropping.