Boatworks Today

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About Boatworks Today

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  • Birthday 10/04/1972

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    A&C, G&G, wood ;-)

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  1. Honestly I do not notice any temp difference from floor level to the upstairs. That said all of the rooms upstairs do not have doors on them so air is able circulate freely. Tubing used was 1/2" pex and run 12" apart except for around the perimeter where it was run 6" apart. It's a Morton building so the walls are nearly 12" thick and I believe R-38. Attic has about 3 feet or so of insulation blown in (I have to take the installers word on that since I'm not able to get up there lol) But I can say I have zero ice buildup anywhere on the roof. Boiler was originally a Triangle Tube but I would not recommend them. Instead look into an IBC boiler made in Canada. WAY better and more reliable. Only downside with in-floor is that it does take a while to heat up from cold but as long as you maintain a consistent temp day / night it's very efficient. The slab I have is 6" thick with 2" foam beneath it so it stores a lot of heat. Hope this helps!.
  2. Ultimately it all comes down to: 1) what you're looking for as a finished appearance 2) How much effort you're willing to put into the finishing process Pore filling can easily become a very tedious process, and like others have mentioned it *CAN* take away from the natural look of the wood. My personal choice would be to skip the filler completely and apply 4-5 coats of satin ARS. This will slightly fill the grain, but not much. More importantly it will provide good protection and bring out the beauty of the mahogany.
  3. I've not used this before, but for the amount of volume you're looking to pour a regular 'standard' epoxy will end up being a disaster. Very brittle, will shrink unevenly and leave a bunch of funky streaks in the clarity of the finish. This type of epoxy is designed for large pours (very large). Think it would be a good fit for the project :-) Hope this helps!
  4. West system epoxy when used with their 205 hardener can be used down to 40F. My opinion with the material you have is that if it states that it requires temps over 70 to fully cure, then it may not be the best choice for your situation (unless you bring it inside :-).. What I suspect would happen in cold temps is that the material would gel, but not fully cure leaving you with somewhat of a rubber'y filler. Just sneak the pieces in the house after she goes to bed :-)
  5. Try it again with 207 :-). 206 is fairly clear, but not like 207. Slow cure, no added heat and you'll be good to go. That being said, I'd sand the epoxy down to 400 then apply a clear lacquer and polish that
  6. To some extent temps somewhat dictate what hardener to use. Per WS and personal experience: "206 Slow Hardener and 207 Special Clear Hardener should not be used below 60°F without elevated temperature post-curing, and 209 Extra Slow Hardener should not be used below 65°F without post-curing" I suspect you're dealing with temp induced viscosity. At appropriate conditions the hardener should dispense like hot maple syrup (basically pretty thin)... Put the resin and hardener on a heating pad to warm it for flow, apply it and let it do it's thing. Opposed to "bar top" epoxy I would advise against taking external heat to it before it's setup. Using a lamp or heat gun will cause the epoxy to bubble..
  7. Pics would be helpful . But presuming the only finish it has is oil, then most likely you can restore the color using a teak cleaner, followed by a light sanding (120 grit) and re-apply another oil finish. The cleaner I suggest is this: Scrub the surfaces AGAINST the grain, rinse well and it's impressive what this stuff can do! On a side note, the color this cleaner brings to cherry is beautiful ...
  8. I unfortunately do more wet sanding than I care to think about .. I use dish soap (specifically Dawn) mixed until the water is slightly blue (I use the blue dawn).. IMO 600 is a bit too fine, personally I would not go above 400 depending on the brand paper. Some 400 is actually more coarse than 320... Ive not used waterlox, but if it's gumming that quickly it may need more time to dry. Beautiful bench btw!!
  9. After the wood has been sealed, try applying the coats un-thinned. What kind of brush are you using?
  10. I have the pm719T and really like it. It's slightly over budget right now but if you can hold off until one of their sales it's roughly $1k delivered.
  11. Where are the gullets riding on the tire? Tension is subjective depending on the blade but the gullets need to be riding center in the top tire for support ?
  12. I'm with the above comments in that a router is the way to go for consistency. If the pieces are as small as they look, like Kev said I'd take the router to the piece, rather than the piece to the router providing you have a sharp bit. Put the pieces in a clamp, secure the clamp to the bench and take multiple passes. Double stick tape would probably work, but consider the clamp a belt and suspenders approach ? At the end of the day though, if it's not something your comfortable with stick with what you are. A rasp followed up with hand sanding will also get the job done ?
  13. Another option to throw into the mix would be to go with a clear water based finish. If the client wants to maintain the light color of the maple, a water based product is going to give you the best results. Nearly every oil based finish is going to impart am amber tone. Water based finishes do not do this. GF makes a couple water based products, I'd probably recommend their high performance.