Boatworks Today

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Everything posted by Boatworks Today

  1. Cheer's.. Hands down ?. What can I say, it's what I grew up on! Just realized that Netflix has most of the episodes avail for streaming so I know what I'm watching for next few weeks ?! Trivia quiz, what was the real name of the bar Cheer's was modeled after? GO!
  2. I'm with the above comments in that a router is the way to go for consistency. If the pieces are as small as they look, like Kev said I'd take the router to the piece, rather than the piece to the router providing you have a sharp bit. Put the pieces in a clamp, secure the clamp to the bench and take multiple passes. Double stick tape would probably work, but consider the clamp a belt and suspenders approach ? At the end of the day though, if it's not something your comfortable with stick with what you are. A rasp followed up with hand sanding will also get the job done ?
  3. Another option to throw into the mix would be to go with a clear water based finish. If the client wants to maintain the light color of the maple, a water based product is going to give you the best results. Nearly every oil based finish is going to impart am amber tone. Water based finishes do not do this. GF makes a couple water based products, I'd probably recommend their high performance.
  4. Very sharp Vinny! I built some tugs for my girls a couple years ago; they still play with them :-)
  5. Happy New Year to all!! May the coming year be better than the last :-). At least tonight is going to be good, I was able to get a full Bombay to balance in the tree ?!
  6. This would be my choice. Ripping the panel in half will half the cupping for each piece. After they're flat (sander, planer, etc) joint the glue edge and stick it together. Guessing you be able to retain 3/4" when it all said and done...
  7. More and more some of the high end builders are using cherry due to the high cost and availability of good teak. In actuality you can use almost any wood and use a stain / grain filler to get the color tone you're looking for. Classic Chris Crafts, Hacker Crafts, etc use mahogany for all of the exterior and go over with two different stains / fillers. Most common is a stain made by Pettit; their 1081. To get the dark chocolate brown color used for accent pieces you just mix in some black oil based paint :-) Not the best video in the world, but this shows what I'm talking about ...
  8. I'd be tempted to go over it with a fine scotchbright pad (dry) to pull any residue out. Give it a good shot of compressed air and apply your final coat :-)
  9. I have a Fuller set and really like it. Comes with the countersinks and matching plug cutters that fit perfectly. Don't know if there is someone local to you that is a distributor, but if nothing else, there is the option for International shipping :-/ Here's their site: http://www.wlfuller.com/
  10. I actually cheat and buy a pre mix... For cutting boards I like to use claphams salad bowl. http://www.claphams.com there are cheaper places to buy (eBay, Amazon, etc) but have had great results..
  11. I think I'd do another coat of ARS, wait about an hour then bring it inside the house where it's warm to cure overnight. If that doesn't set up, then another wipe down and hit it with some shellac. Unless this is something that you're mailing you still have a bit of time :-) Good luck! Let us know how it turns out!
  12. Out of curiosity, was it their flat finish? I normally use their semi-gloss and have never had an issue, but for some reason this last order I used the flat, and it was not setting up. Applied correctly in proper temps and still tacky after a week. I contacted GF and they were very helpful, but we still haven't figured out the issue. They sent me a new batch of flat but I have yet to try it. I applied some semi gloss last night and it set up perfectly..
  13. The gullets need to be in the center of the tire. Back edge of the blade should be almost even with the back edge of the tire. As you have it currently set, the blade is riding a little too far forward. Also feed rate should slow. Roughly 1 foot every 10 sec.. I have the same saw and blade.. This works for me ? Edit: take that back, I have a different blade but the teeth need more support. Try moving the blade back on the wheel about 1/8" and really keep notice of the feed rate. Even, steady and consistent. You're not going to get veneer ready cuts, but a few swipes with a sanding block and it should be there...
  14. I think that's basically the same stuff. Works pretty well and won't kill you :-)
  15. I've used Aqua-Strip and have had very good results. No experience with CitriStrip :-/
  16. Water based finishes are milky white in the can. You should be applying heavy enough that your piece is a very faint milky color on horizontal surfaces. Vertical is different for the sake of runs and drips :-). 3-4 strokes per area and leave it be.. Surprising how much the finish will shrink and behave...
  17. I'm guessing that you're not applying enough material (water based). It really needs to be applied liberally. As it dries, it will lay flat and tighten up. Will look a little sloppy as a fresh, wet application... I'd try another coat and don't be shy with the material. Level it out best you can, but don't over work it... 3-4 brush strokes per area and leave it be.. What kind of brush are you using? Foam or bristle...
  18. For small curves I use 1/4" 4TPI from Timberwolf. Doesn't leave a smooth cut edge, but a couple passes around a sander and it's all good..
  19. You can do it most of the time, but you'll need to allow the original coat to fully cure; most recommend at least 72 hours at room temps. To be on the safe side, it might be a good idea to make a scrap piece the same as you did on the drawers and use the water based on that BEFORE taking it to the drawers :-) It also might be a good idea to give a coat or two of de-waxed shellac before applying the water poly.
  20. I think I'd start by confirming that the blade is actually the length that you ordered; could have been an oversight with shipping. It's pretty unlikely that the wheels themselves have been pulled closer together. If they seem to turn freely without any funny sounds in the bearings I'd initially rule that out. Where did you get the blade from?
  21. I run a 3/4 wood slicer blade from highland and have been very happy with. Very reasonably priced as well.. Certainly another option after your saw is dialed in.