Boatworks Today

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Everything posted by Boatworks Today

  1. I'd lean towards having pulls as well. Think of them as highlights to the overall piece ;-)
  2. <Like>: Evidently I've met my "like" quota for the day.... ;-)
  3. Yea, my meter is able to scan 1" into the material. Doing this both sides I'm still left with 1" in the middle that could be Pandora's box..
  4. Just checked the MC% and it seems to be pretty even on all sides; 8%-9%. Think I'm still going to use it as a paperweight for a couple months to see what happens. @Steve, I do have small G&G project I've wanted to do for a long time, might have to use this as the guinea pig :-)
  5. Providing the polycrylic is fully cured there should be no issues going over top with an oil based finish. The other way around *could* create issues with bonding, but even then it's possible after a long cure time. One thing to take note of is that the bond of the oil based finish is only as good as what it's bonding onto. If the surface was properly prepped prior to applying the polycrylic you should be fine. Just prep as Mike (above) mentioned and I think you're good to go. One last note, when you're sanding the poly, be careful not to sand through exposing bare wood. This will create blotches in the appearance as oil based finishes will give a different look than water finishes. Hope this helps!
  6. At this point it's all about baby steps... To start, subscribing to my YT channel is a start ;-). Nothing other than a charity build there now, but more to come over the next week...
  7. means to an end :-). Hopefully not "the end"... No doubt a major change in life
  8. Trying to walk away from boats and transition into what I've had set as a goal since The beginning... It's been an end goal for the past 12 years.. Like I said, very long story that's best shared over quite a few cocktails :-) The best short explanation is that I used my business as a way to develope skills. Basically a means to an end.
  9. I gotta admit it's a little weird seeing the new name and logo, but it's for a good reason. Long over due ;-)
  10. I haven't scraped and put the moisture meter to it yet, but guessing by the weight it likely still wet.. Will update in the morning :-). Wet or not, gotta love the wood ;-). #Anniversary.. Sorry, couldn't resist :-). 17 yrs...
  11. For our anniversary :-) Still sounds kinda dirty, but really... She got me a chunk of ebony. She didn't know what kind but I'm guessing either Mun or Brazilian? This thing is heavy! it's 6" x 6" x 3" and has to weigh at least 5 pounds! Very hard and coated with wax. I can veneer it out, but then what? Any suggestions what to do with a small chunk like this?
  12. Still have a ways to go, but this from the end of my driveway this morning..
  13. Just started! About 2 weeks late but it's beautiful now! Hoping for a mild Winter ;-)
  14. I changed my profile name.. WAS: Boatworks Today NOW: AMiller Woodworking It's a story that needs to be shared over a few drinks ;-) You're more than welcome to stop by!
  15. Very nice ;-)! Getting an early start for Xmas?
  16. Yup, below grade they serve no purpose.. Have at it ;-)
  17. I'm wondering if the inner / outer blades are set correctly (maybe reversed?). That's some terrible tear out especially with new blades..
  18. I think I understand what your looking to make. Is it something along the lines of the hatch cover in this video? Only larger? probably the easiest way to build this would be to make a plywood version of the cover and glass over it top and bottom (encasing the plywood). Round over all the edges so the glass can wrap the corners. as far as materials, you'll want roughly a gallon of laminating polyester resin, 4oz of Mek-p (hardener for the resin), 2 different types of glass (1.5 oz csm aka chopped strand matting, and 1708 biaxial). You can buy these rolls in different widths, so you'll need to figure out how much you'll need. Figure on laying 3 layers of csm and 1 layer of 1708. The order should go like this: csm, 1708, csm, csm. youll want to use this same laminating schedule on both the top and bottom of the plywood hatch. Use a solvent resistant roller and chip brushes for wetting out the glass, and don't worry about any excess glass strands hanging over the edges. That can all get trimmed off after everything is cured. because this is a laminating resin, after the glass has set up you'll need to apply a light coat of pva (poly vinyl alcohol). Think of this as a liquid plastic. Poly resin will not fully cure unless the surface is sealed from the air, the pva will do this. Pva is water soluable, so the following day wipe it down with warm water and a scotch right pad to remove this film. Sand the glass smooth and topcoat with either paint or gelcoat. when sourcing the materials, do not get the resin or glass from a big box or automotive store. It's poor quality. Here are some sites I'd recommend the poly resin needs to be catalyzed around 1%. Figure roughly 10 drops of mek-p per ounce of resin. Depending on the temps, you'll have roughly 10 minutes of working time per batch. This is at 70f. The resin needs to maintain a minimum of 65f during the cure cycle which can take up to 24 hours to completely do its thing. If you have any questions just let me know :-) I didn't think that this info would be something that others would find interesting which is why I suggested sending me a pm ;-)
  19. Pm me with some pics and more detail :-). have the subject heading WTO so I catch it!
  20. Bad ass Steve (sorry for the language, in that kind of mood ;-). Going to look awesome!
  21. Man, this is going to seriously cut into your beer time at night! That's ok, I'll have some for ya .. Should be fun, though..
  22. I've had very good luck with Horton Brass. Might be worth checking out. Here's a link to their locks page
  23. +1 for west system as well as getting the pumps. Jamestown is an option as well as ebay or amazon. Check around on pricing as some places tend to me high.