Boatworks Today

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  1. The amount of lumber you'll go through really depends on what you want for an overall thickness of the board (finished) and the width of the stock you're working with.. Yes, the big box stores typically staple the tags on the ends (end grain and edge grain are the same thing). If you're working with stock that's up to 8" wide, IMO that's too wide unless the pieces are vertical grain (when you're looking at the end of the piece, the grains are running vertical across the width of the piece). Vertical grain and quarter-sawn are the same thing. (This is starting to turn into the episode that Marc did on lumber lingo; 4/4, 6/4, flat sawn, quartersawn, s2s, etc... ha ha!) If you're looking at the ends and the grain is running horizontal then that will have a tendency to bow or cup ultimately leading to cracks in the board. When I do mine I usually cut the individual pieces 2" long (which will actually be looked at as the thickness of the board when assembled), 1.5" wide by 3/4 - 1" thick. I'm gonna see if I can attach some pics of a small one I did last year. Don't know how it's gonna work.. I tend to do more pieces that are smaller rather than fewer pieces that are larger. Bigger pieces go together quicker, but IMO the smaller ones tend of be more stable when it's all glued up... Hope this helps!
  2. According to the specs, yes it will work fine for wood. And it's actually a pretty decent price for an epoxy kit. That being said it's a brand that I'm not familiar with so can't comment on the quality or specifics of use. Biggest factor IMO given the quantity is the shelf life? Some epoxies don't have one, others do. As far as strength of bond, it will out-do any 1 part wood glues.. And, another bonus is that it's a clear cure; can be used as base coats for finishing (if you choose). You'll have to go over top with something else for the topcoat but it saves a ton of building time if you're looking for the mirror finish.
  3. IMO the thicker the better. I usually make my boards 2.5" thick (at least for the people I like ). It uses a LOT of lumber but the boards are heavy, very stable and there's plenty of meat left if you ever want to refinish them..
  4. Just saw your suggestion for the jewelry box. No doubt it would be cherished!
  5. I suspect there's a secret to getting the tones and pitches harmonized. For me that's where the learning curve would hang me up... But Man, it sounds really cool!
  6. What can I say; we think a like! Here's what I'm looking at and kind of work from as an idea http://www.boxedmusicdrums.com/catalog/songa/ I think what I'm doing is technically what you referred to. Came across this drum maker last night (specifically his Songa) you gotta listen to this, it's awesome!! Beyond what I'm tinkering with now, but someday.... I think it would be AWESOME if someone else made a drum. Like you say kids will love'em and as they get older they may actually be good at it
  7. To a point, guilty as charged (at least while I'm recording) . Depending on what equipment I'm running I typically have ear buds and glasses on (I may have the top half of my body out of the camera view), but unfortunately sometimes it isn't always practical to have all the garb on (both personally and on the equipment) while trying to talk and work and still get good visibility for the camera. I can't say that it's "best practice"or recommended, but I can assure you that when it's 'business as normal' I'm taking all the necessary precautions ! Good catch; that's the first someone's brought that up.
  8. Something I'm working on now is a melodic drum (more or less something that a 2+yr old could slap with their hands and make "music". We'll see how it sounds by the end of the day; never made one before. trying that and a simple xylophone out of sapele and red birch (whichever sounds better will be the winner for the next vid.. )
  9. I'll have to look at maybe making a crooked style wand that I do with a spokeshave; a lathe is the next goodie on my wish list
  10. Hi All, This year I'm trying to organize a simple charity build to benefit the Toys For Tots foundation. The gift items that I'm putting together are simple projects that can be turned around in a day or less (I even have the necessary templates avail for free download!). My hope is for a few (hopefully quite a few) woodworkers to come together, make an item or two each and donate them to their local drop off center. I realize I'm getting a bit of a late start with this, but an afternoon out in the shop between now and Christmas could really make a difference for someone Anyone who might be interested can find more information off of my website http://www.boatworkstoday.com The link for the TFT page is in RED on the right menu box labeled 'Recent Posts'. I'm still putting together gift ideas myself, so if anyone has a suggestion I would love to hear it! Thanks! ~Andy
  11. Don't mean to throw another option out at you, but I've always like Japanese style chisels. I have a couple of them and love'em. They can be honed scary sharp and I like the looks of them too ; something about a rustic black appearance on the steel.. Problem is that they CAN cost an arm and a leg (not all of them, but some do!!) Look over this site http://www.japanwoodworker.com/dept.asp?s=JapanWoodworker&dept_id=12758 there are some REALLY nice dovetail chisels for $50-$60 range... One of my fav chisels is their crank-neck which I use strictly for shaving bungs / plugs..
  12. Personally I would do the inlay and sealing/buildup with a clear epoxy (west system 105 & 207 hardener) and finish off with a good quality spar varnish (Pettit or Epifanes) high gloss. VIP, the epoxy has to be a clear (not the standard run of the mill stuff). This is typically determined by the hardener... This epoxy / varnish combo is an excellent marine finish.
  13. Herbster, WI (yea, it's really a town; don't laugh) Well, maybe giggle a little South Shore of Lake Superior
  14. I just sold my 735 as I wasn't using it anymore (upgraded to a 15" delta a few years ago). The 735 worked well for soft woods and very light volume. It was good on widths under 6" but anything more and the cutting depth had to be very shallow. I work a lot with harder woods (teak, hard maple and mahogany) and for that unfortunately I wasn't real impressed; motor seemed undersized for my applications. Softwoods = good. The Delta is a lot more machine. Knowing what I know now I would have spent a bit more and gotten the powermatic but all in all the delta has worked out fine so far. There is a night and day difference in using a 220v planer versus a 110. As far as marks from the feeder bar, I did loosen the down tension a bit and that issue went away. As long as the knives are sharp you'll get a clean, smooth face regardless of the unit. IMO for the cost difference especially since you're not looking for a portable unit, my vote would be the larger machine. Hope this helps!