Boatworks Today

Mentors
  • Posts

    1204
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Boatworks Today

  1. I was getting that message a couple days ago as well. Ended up clearing my cache and that took care of it. Guessing it's related to when Marc moved the forum to a separate server...
  2. I'd buy that for a dollar! (Well, $20 / Yr is good too )... Totally Understandable
  3. I have a bathroom fan that takes about 20 sec to actually start running (guessing the bearings have rusted from the humidity of the shower). I know it's not right, but this post has bumped it to the top of the priority list! going to show this to the wife so she doesn't think I'm crazy for tearing the shower apart. ;-) glad everyone is ok. Could have been much worse!
  4. no doubt.. I have a bathroom fan that takes about 20 sec to actually start running.. That thing is getting pulled tomorrow!
  5. I think the thing that freaks me out the most is that the gullet ion that blade is almost as deep as my finger is wide. Dumb chance that I hit the tooth and not get caught in the gullet. That would have been goodbye finger :-/...
  6. Fall is coming and that generally means more shop time for most of us. Just wanted to share a nearly catastrophic incident I just had as a reminder to all that power tools demand 100% of your focus! It's the end of the day, I'm tired and my mind was not where it should have been when cutting some small wedges on the bandsaw. Generally I consider the BS to be fairly safe, however today I got a little too lax and was heavily distracted by the amount of flies buzzing around the lights in my shop. I just had the building sprayed an hour ago and I was dreaming of the piles of dead flies I'd be sweeping up in the morning :-) Right then, my finger touched a brand new 3/4" Woodslicer running full steam. As soon as I felt and heard the nick I immediately pulled back, braced myself for what I was going to see and LUCKILY a minor nick to my fingernail is all I had.. My ego took most of the damage :-/ I know better than this. It was a foolish, careless mistake that never should have happened. I consider myself extremely lucky as it could have been so much worse. So, as a reminder to us all, if you're distracted, tired, etc and your head is not 100% on the task at hand, don't be running your tools! I'm going home for a beer and clean out my shorts...
  7. Like I said, just spit-balling ;-). Seems there's some sort of reaction going on, so far the paper is the only variable I can see..
  8. Here's my guess. Sandpaper comes in a couple varieties; stearated and non-stearated. Old stearated paper was coated with zinc to help prevent clogging. Newer versions use something other than zinc so there's less chance of an issue with modern finishes. But, I've worked with finishes that specifically state to use non-stearated paper. I suspect if you're getting green specs it's due to a reaction of bits of paper containing zinc being stuck in the pores of the wood and reacting with the WB finish. Just spit-balling though!
  9. I've been out for a few days / weeks and just saw this thread. What I'd do to avoid bubbles is brush on a seal coat of straight epoxy and let it tack up. Once that happens then you should be able to do some pouring without getting the bubbles. I've found that adding heat to the epoxy causes more bubbles (at least with west system; others it works really well). Best I can gather is that the heat warms up the wood (whether from a heat gun or from the curing process) and the wood begins to off gas. As luck would have it, it almost always happens at the peak of the cure when it's warmest and coincidentally when the mix is beginning to thicken. Once it gets too thick, the bubbles cant escape and get trapped. By brushing on a seal coat first, it basically seals the wood and greatly reduces (don't want to say eliminate) off gas getting into the thicker mix. If you really want to play it safe, let the seal coat cure, then give a light sanding, wipe with acetone and do the pours. Good luck!
  10. I'm with Kev, use a clear epoxy mix (which is usually determined by the hardener) and use it through the entire repair process. I'm most familiar with West System epoxy so that's what I'll comment on (there are others), if you use their 207 hardener the epoxy will cure pretty much water clear.. Clean up any excess squeeze out with acetone before it cures and you'll be golden. I have yet to run into any kind of finish that does not work on top of this epoxy (most epoxies in general).. Good luck!
  11. I'll be Damned.... After looking at it all day, also kinda reminds me of Tigger
  12. Can't quite place it, but was cutting up some trim for the house and this was staring back laughing at me... The face looks familiar but can't quite place it..
  13. Maybe try taking a rag soaked with acetone or lacquer thinner and let it it on the epoxy glops for a little while (20 min or so) and see if that will loosen the bond enough to get underneath with ah scraper and pop it off? Two potential problems: the solvent will likely remove any finish you have on the deck, and if prying the epoxy off there is the possibility that some wood may come with it :-/ Been there, it sucks. I once epoxied a $200 bottle of compound to the deck of a boat.. Not cool... Good luck!
  14. I like to keep things as simple as possible while still getting the appearance / protection needed. For cherry I am a big fan of arm-r-seal.. For dark(er) woods it's hard to beat. Not my choice for light woods, but this is what I'd recommend...
  15. I think the prudent question here is what are you building and how will it be used? There are a lot of ways to get the 'finish' you're looking for, but not all would be appropriate for it's intended use ...
  16. Well, being the genius that I am it just dawned on me that painting them white is the first step regardless if I take it further or not. Turn them white and see what it looks like. If it's too much, then time to start mixing drinks and laying down the glaze... I'll post pics after they're painted to get more input! Thanks!
  17. My original plan was to paint all the cabinets white and call it done, but I'm also re-doing all the window, door and base trim in the main floor (which was also going to be white). The entry doors will likely be stained a dark mocha color and kinda thought that if the cabinets were left white along with everything else, that would be a whole lot of white going on! Possibly too much.. So since the cabinet door I posted is just a test piece I took the glaze to it to see what could come of it. I like it, but it is a lot more steps! Paint 2x, glaze 3x, finish 2x... Any opinions on having white cabinets with little kids (fingerprints, spills, etc)? Wife wants it!
  18. Try and paint kitchen cabinets to look better than the original hickory ... The cabinets in my house are hickory that had a really cheap, crappy finish that started to fail after a few years... Water stains, complete lifting, etc; they look bad.. I like the hickory contrast when they were new, but am too lazy to do a total strip and refinish. I do enough of that at work, last thing I want to do in my "off time" is more stripping ... anyway, decided to take the simple route and paint the cabinets. Looked over in my cabinet of goodies and saw a few different glaze colors.. Hmmm... What would this look like? One thing led to another (a Bombay May have had something to do with it) and I have a sample of a fairly close hickory painted cabinet! Now I only have 30 doors to do plus the boxes... why couldnt i settle for just paint!?!? Trying to figure out how to post pics on new system... Hang with me for a sec.... ok, if I uploaded the pics in the correct order... 1st pic is after 2 coats of GF linen milk paint 2nd if after 2 glaze coats of burnt umber (and a Bombay) 3rd and 4th are after one glaze coat of van dye brown around the perimeter of the insert panels.. currently waiting for this to dry before applying high performance (flat)... Original cabinets are in the background; not too bad of a match.. Actually think I prefer the painted sample.. What do you think?
  19. I installed a Lopi Leyden woodstove a few years back (best thing I ever did with the house). We heat the entire house (minus the basement) for $500 / season which is close to 7 months in N Wisconsin.. When it's -20 outside and blowing like a New Orleans (I digress :-/), it's a toastly 80+ in the house!! I don't recall any issue with insurance.. Maybe because of location? Most people here heat with wood as it's everywhere! Stoves are different in construction.. As long as it's installed according to their spec's as far as clearances there shouldn't be many issues...
  20. If you leave it on; yes.. Personally I've gotten good uniform results from 2-3 stain applications wiping off after each coat.
  21. Hey Faz, I gotta side with what Steve said (Wdwerker), sanding to a higher grit really limits what any kind of stain is able to do. Depending on the type of wood, it may actually cause problems with un-evenness in appearance. Personally I wouldn't sand any higher than 120 for stain treatment.. If you're looking for a smooth finish, that appearance will come with the post stain finishing process; not necessarily when doing the stain... At this point what I'd do is sand the surface flush with 120 (not paying attention to what the appearance looks like at ths point) and re-apply another stain coat possibly mixed with an extender / thinner to give more working time to wipe off before it dries.. Even-ness comes from the number of coats; not necessarily how it's wiped off.. Hard to explain, but hope this makes sense
  22. So modern and fancy schmacy ;-). I dig it I did just notice that my user name has switched to my real name other than my traditional name. Maybe something I need to change on my profile? Will update if possible... Figured out how to change display name, now noticing that the tag line / quote thing is missing.. Don't really care, just mentioning it..