TheFatBaron

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Everything posted by TheFatBaron

  1. Yep. Whatever non-5 minute epoxy Home Depot had last time I got it and some black dye. Looks real nice with the finish (Osmo poly-x) over top.
  2. Since switching coasts, i haven’t been doing a ton of woodworking aside from some small outdoor projects and a couple random things. Since I finally finished my workbench a year or so ago, I’ve been doing a little more. With the enforced home time here in the Seattle area recently, I finally got around to making an end table using the last of the hickory I brought out from NJ.
  3. So.... it's been a long time since I've posted (years, probably). A cross country move, job changes, and the like will do that. Anyway... I don't know how many people ever read Chris Hall's blog (thecarpentryway.blog). For many years it was his outlet for sharing his work in Japanese-style carpentry. His output had dropped recently, as he shared, due to a cancer diagnosis that has gone from bad to worse. I don't know why this one hit me, but he's been eloquently sharing his experiences while also finishing up what has turned out to be his final piece. I recommend giving his blog a read. Say a word of thanks while he's still around. And, if you find something of value, maybe buy one of his books or throw a couple dollars into a GoFundMe that was set up to provide a bit for his wife and child.
  4. Pkinneb, JohnG - you're right about the leg inset. That's a good thing to double check before I finalize everything. Even an inch or two inwards is good, even if I have to change the angle of the legs. JohnG, Wtnhighlander - Thanks for the reference material. Good stuff to read through. 18" is probably too much for an overhang (leaves only 3' between the legs in the middle, which definitely seems tippy). Perhaps it's better to just set expectations that end seating will be "in a pinch for short people".
  5. Is there a any rule/guideline anyone is aware of for overhangs on a table? I'm trying to finish designing an outdoor dining table (see a rough render below) I'm not concerned about strength - the top will be 5/4 white oak - more about general "tip risk" with the kids. The top is about 72x36", and currently overhangs the stretchers at the top by 6" on the short ends and 8" on the long sides, but due to the angle of the base, it's almost directly over the bottom of the legs. Thoughts? My goal is to leave foot/legroom on the ends for someone to sit, while not making the table so unstable it tips if someone puts their weight on it as the stand up or sit down. Thanks.
  6. The existing surface is very solid. If it flexes or gives, I can't tell. Your idea for leveling compound is great, and I'll look into it. Yeah, the planer sled works great. If I did it again, I wouldn't use melamine shelving for the main body. Even with sandpaper on the bottom of the risers and wedges, it's still a little slippery. But the basic construction is stiff over its' length, and easy to grab and move.
  7. Hi everyone - After relocating to the PNW last summer, I'm finally getting around to a fun to-do item: resurfacing the workbench in the shop area of the house we bought. It's simple plywood and 2x4 cabinetry - incredibly stable, and the right size along the length of the way - but the surface itself is nowhere close to flat. The seams between the old plywood are up to 1/8" out of flat. The easiest thing for me to do would be to drop a 3/4" sheet of ply over top, screw it down and call it a day, but then I worry about the ply flexing under load as I do hand planing or something. Otherwise, I could shim the worst of it before screwing it down, or go thicker with an actual wood top. Thoughts? Alternatives? Am I missing an obvious way to level the current surface before putting down the new surface?
  8. I know people love to complain about Laguna customer service, but maybe they've finally fired/hired the right people (or maybe I just got luck). In moving across the country, one of the spacers/bushings came off the fence of my 1412 bandsaw. After poking around McMaster-Carr and a few other sites and not being able to find the exact match fit, I gave them a call. The woman who answered was 1) super friendly 2) showed me were the parts diagram/list was in the manual and 3) is sending me the part for free (it cost $1). And no, I wasn't paid for this. But I feel obliged to say something nice before I return to being a professional grump.
  9. Aaah, millwork! I don't think I actually search for that word (yes, it's in the title). That would likely bring better results than what I found. This is not an industry full of great websites... it's so hard to find a company that just says, 'yep we make/sell handrails in homeowner/consumer quantities.'
  10. Does anyone have any suggestions on where I could pick up handrails outside of the usual Big Box stores? I moved out here a bit ago, and am in the process of buying a house - which has no handrails on the entry stairs. I'm not looking for anything exotic or custom - or even a lot - it's probably about a dozen steps total. I'd just love to have some options.
  11. Since everyone questioned this: It says in stock, but when you add it to your cart, you get an error: And you can't actually check out with it in your cart. I didn't realize this was being offered through other retailers, though.
  12. Well, the fact that they're sold out has made my decision accidentally easy.
  13. Yep, that's what I figured you meant. No, I won't be letting him do much beyond glue & paint. I was hoping to find a good enough deal, but making an octagon with a jack/jointer plane and rounding from there is pretty simple - once everything heals up. Not really worth the money, and I'm not in a particular rush.
  14. I'm with you on this one. Taking the hand tool approach on this one. If it becomes a bigger thing, I'll probably just take a lathe class at a local shop, and do this the 'right' way. Don - 4 1/2 years old. Currently obsessed with all things flying and space related. Zeppelins/blimps, aircraft of all types, the Apollo missions, the Shuttle, Space X, Mars Rovers... he's going to be a giant dork, and I couldn't be happier.
  15. True, and I've got a walking stick jig for my bandsaw.... I could do that....
  16. Honestly, if I had even 80% use of my right hand right now... I'd probably do that.
  17. Other than making them myself (as I don't have a mill or lathe), does anyone know of a source for larger-diameter dowels? Woodcraft has 2" diameter in maple, which is ok (I can always stain or paint it) but it would be nice to be able to use other species. By the way, the project is some rockets that my son can build and recombine using rare earth magnets to put the parts together. Something to do while I wait on some ligaments in my right hand to heal up.
  18. Actually, they ask to not take photographs inside the buildings, though you're welcome to take any outside on the grounds, but frankly, pictures don't do justice to the pieces themselves (though I probably should've snagged one of the lumber stash).
  19. Hello everyone - I had a chance today to visit the Nakashima property and get a guided tour (along with about a dozen other people). If you find your way near southeastern Pennsylvania and have a few hours to spend, I highly recommend it. You get to go through several of the buildings as staff members explain details about Nakashima's philosophy, the history of the property, processes, and other details. It's not a particularly long tour, and unfortunately, you don't get to go into the workshop itself, but it's wonderful to see the in-progress pieces, examine the completed pieces and prototypes sitting around the property. And if you ever feel bad about your lumber stash... you should see theirs. They describe it as their "Raiders of the Lost Ark" barn, and it doesn't feel like they're exaggerating.
  20. I do know people who have tried marine varnish, and I've tried some of the other blends myself. Generally, it gets worn off impact surfaces pretty quickly and even when you're not trying to build a film, it still gives that bad 'tacky' feel. If you're looking for something to deeply penetrate, some places (such as Kingfisher) DO make 'resin enhanced' bokken, where they use a vacuum chamber to pull the resin (I guess a thin epoxy?) deep into the wood - much deeper than you'll get from soaking/rubbing. This is different than just applying and sanding a finish, though. It also turns your bokken into a bokken-breaker. Some dojos actively ban these because unsuspecting partners tend to get a nasty surprise.
  21. You don't want a film finish on your weapons. Save yourself the trouble and just do 3-5 applications of tung oil or BLO. The film finish won't hold up under any impact, and the amount of water your hands actually put onto a weapon will do no damage to the wood itself. On the other hand, the film finish will give you a ton of blisters and a miserable feel.
  22. Hey folks - cleaning out some tools I don't need anymore. I have a Paslode cordless framing nailer with case, 2 batteries (working), charger (working), 2 near-full boxes of nails (2 3/8" and 3") and the instructions. I don't have the fuel cells, but you can buy them at the big box stores pretty cheaply. $125 + shipping. I used this to do a bunch of framing work when I didn't have access to a compressor or was working where I couldn't work around the compressor. Works as far as I know, but I can't verify without fuel cells (and they go bad fast once opened). The nailgun has been claimed. I also have a Dewalt DW225 corded drywall screwgun. It works, but I don't have any need for it anymore. $35 + shipping. Figured I'd give you guys first shot before I list on eBay. I've listed this on eBay here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/252366943890
  23. The floor-standing Ridgid drill press isn't bad, in my opinion. I bought the previous model used off Craigslist a couple years ago, and it's been fine other than the handles slowly loosening (but that's easy to fix).