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Everything posted by TheFatBaron

  1. While not exactly a hand-tool, it's related. CShaffer was kind enough to sell me a Stanley 45 from his collection, and after a bit of cleaning and sharpening, I realized that my plywood-and-2x4-and-machinists vise bench presented some basic problems around how the heck to hold pieces for this sort of work, and I couldn't really improvise much. Anyway, I originally considered building a Milkman's Workbench, but decided that would still be a bit far out. I ended up seeing the "bench bull" series linked on PW (1, 2, 3) and realized it was perfect. I built mine out of some cedar 4x4 left over from some raised beds, and hickory leftover from... well, something. The gaps are just big enough to sneak through some 5" jaw F-clamps, and at 2' wide, can hold a decent variety of pieces. Needless to say, so far the bench bull seems like a great, easy to build, low-cost workholding platform, and surprisingly versatile. Oh, thanks again, CS!
  2. I'm going to make a couple small boxes - about 3 x 3.25 x 7.5", based off the patten of an existing box. The existing box is solid wood that's been glued together, similar to the construction in this wonderful post (though not nearly as nice): How big do you guys go before worrying about movement? I'm probably going to float the bottom/top panels and do finger joints or dovetails on the corners, so this question is mostly academic.
  3. Yes. The fiberglass itself is not flammable but the vapor barrier is will go up instantly.
  4. Also, I have a suspicion the 'minimum 1/4" thickness' is assuming insulated walls, to make sure your extremely flammable insulation is sufficiently protected.
  5. @James - Yes, used, and I'm not necessarily looking for a complete set of knives - worst case with a narrow blade, it seems like you can always make the groove wider by adjusting the fence, it just may take a while. And it looks like the Veritas blades would fit (not 100% sure, but they look the same). In any case, I just checked on Blood & Gore, and you're right... that's a lot of parts to break/go missing.
  6. Anything in particular I should look for/avoid when browsing for one eBay? Obviously, I could just buy new, but I don't mind spending some time to tweak a used plane in this case. I just don't want to buy an obvious lemon.
  7. These aren't mine, but I thought I'd share them here. I know I personally have a ton of small scraps and can always use another use - especially now that my son is big into building things.
  8. Yep, I switched to the 1/4" blade over the weekend and no burning, and insignificant wandering - 2 or 3 passes with a hand plane and the edge was straight. I'll fold the old blade up and probably just toss it. Oh well. At least bandsaw blades aren't that expensive. Could've been a much worse lesson.
  9. Somewhere along the way, I messed up on my Laguna 1412 (those things multiply like rabbits around here!) and accidentally bumped the ceramic guides too far forward. While cutting, the blade began to cut into the top left-hand (as you face towards the front of the saw) ceramic guide. Not too bad, the guide is still functional, but there's a nice gouge in it. Unfortunately, I didn't notice this on the first cut. Here's what my cuts look like right now: 23.36.42.jpg?dl=0 That's a 1.25" thick piece of red oak - nothing fancy. I've made similar cuts in poplar. It still cuts easily, but there's burning, and the blade wanders off to the right (I haven't been able to correct via the fence, yet). When I cut harder woods (hickory, jatoba, black locust), both get worse. I recall my first cuts being nice and clean, and about as straight as I can cut by hand (which isn't saying much, I admit). Does that sound like blade damage? Obviously, the easiest thing to do is to change the blade... which I can do this weekend, though I expect a difference between the 5/8" and 1/4" blades. In the meantime... any suggestions? Is there something else on my saw I should check (for the wandering, at least? Assuming it is, in fact the blade, is this likely something repairable, or should I consign myself to a new blade?
  10. Assuming I was taking orders (I'm not, too much stuff + new baby), $80+ is right for a basic bokken, and you're only going up from there if you want custom. Expect to pay more for people who actually expect to make a profit. Bad news Dru - once I finish my current backlog of orders, I don't think I'll have a piece suitable for you. I've got one piece that may be able to give me a spare blank, but it's got some wild grain, a couple knots and a bark inclusion that I'm not sure how deep it goes. If I get this done and end up having a spare, blank, I'll let you know.
  11. Dru - very true about the intended usage, according to most kenjutsu schools. Some put more emphasis in strong blocks, but most more or less match your assessment. Of course, intended usage can be overruled by human error, as what happened in my case. Regardless, any bokken will break, eventually. I completely forgot to check my hickory stash when I got home last night, but I'll look for you tonight. I have to see how the oil is curing on the jatoba naginata currently on my bench. Brendon - it is, but it's so straight grained and well behaved (and pretty) that I'm willing to forgive it.
  12. Dru - let me see what I have at home. I may have a piece that will work for you. Shipping might be a bear, though. Also, if you're not totally dead set on Hickory, you can also look for Jatoba. I prefer it slightly for my bokken, and it's held up just as well, if not better - my hickory bokken split from hard impact on the tip, which is a known weakness of hickory (great for splitting staves, less great here). Consider reading up @
  13. Yes, which I meant to call out explicitly. However, that doesn't account for the cost of time (either yours, or someone else's) to install them. In my case, time is limited, so there's an higher value.
  14. My 15" Grizzly planer has the segmented (NOT HELICAL) cutter, which I believe is your option B. It met my needs, but it's not a real helical head. That said - I love having carbide blades and not having to switch an entire knife if I ding one. And I rarely have tearout issues. But, if you're after pure bang-for-the-buck, and you're mechanically inclined and not at all nervous about pulling the cutterhead, I would seriously consider upgrading to a true helical head down the line. Such things are beyond my willingness to invest time - but if you DO have the time and inclination, I would say "why not"? Edit: you didn't mention your planned usage, did you?
  15. So, when I say that I'm not looking to spend $200 on a sander, the recommendations are mostly for a $195 Festool? Well, it is technically under $200. I'll check into what Bosch offers. I like my Makita tools, but I remember they had issues with dust collection hookup. Maybe they changed the fitting lately.
  16. I highly recommend looking at The Wirecutter's recommendations. The fact is, unless you're planning to seriously buy into the system (Nikon, Canon, or any other brand), and you're considering upgrading to a full-frame DSLR down the road, there's almost no reason to buy a DSLR today. Additionally, most entry level DSLRs (at least from Nikon and Canon) are crippled - they lack the option to use older, manual lenses, or lack exposure bracketing, or auto-drive shooting, or various other modes. Instead, look at the Micro 4/3 cameras, or the Sony Alpha mirrorless cameras. You get the same size sensor as the basic DSLRs, most of the control, and interchangable lenses, in a MUCH smaller package.
  17. My 5" Ridgid sander is finally nearing retirement. It's had a decent life for a few years now. Replacing the brake (prevents gouging, and various other nastiness) used to be a once-every-6-months thing, even with regular use. Now, I'm replacing it on every other use, even after replacing the bearing, the hook & loop pad, and a couple other parts that supposedly cause premature wear. I'll use up the last of my spare parts, but it's time to sent it to the old tool home. Short of stepping up to a Festool or Mirka, is there anything interesting in the sub-$200 ROS market?
  18. Just as likely, the grain changed direction.
  19. I've used it for wooden weapons, and a cage for my raspberries. It's hard, but not as bad as hickory or jatoba or the other really hard stuff. I don't think it's any more prone to tearout than most other woods, except for the fact that the tree itself tends to be knotty and gnarly, so you get a lot of grain direction changes. I've never found it to be totally unmanagable, though. Also, it ages to a very pretty amber color.
  20. I inherited two combo squares. One is square-ish. One is not. I made do, until I found a new old-stock mitutoyo combo square package. Saved a good chunk off retail and, much like the Starrett squares, it's as accurate as you can want when tightened up. I still see them (and similar Starretts pop up on eBay. Worth a shot.
  21. Pretty much the same, though I used plain white vinegar in a 1-quart mason jar, and never actually removed the steel wool. It dissolved on its own after a day or two. It looks pretty nasty now, but it works great. For the small pieces, I dunked them until I they got good and dark, wiped the excess, and allowed it to dry. It was in the mixture for no more than a minute. Probably much less, in fact. Then I did a quick sand with 400 grit (I think), since the water raised the grain a bit, and gave it another quick dunk.
  22. White oak turns pretty damn black with iron acetate. I used it to get some simple "black" game pieces:
  23. To point 1, the jointer will give you flat surfaces, and a 90° corner. However, there is no guarantee that your opposite faces will be parallel - meaning, you could get a taper in both thickness and width, through no fault of your jointer. Otherwise... buy a hand plane?
  24. I just got my 1412 set up a couple weeks ago. Here's one thing that, while obvious in hindsight, isn't specifically called out in the manual: When tensioning and tracking the blade... the tracking will be totally different under tension, but you can't adjust the tracking wheel while the blade is under full tension. Or at least it didn't seem like it was possible on mine. I'd consider getting the tension right first, and THEN adjusting your tracking.
  25. It's about comparable to hickory in workability, though slightly easier to work, and slightly softer. I don't know about the "2 years longer than stone", but it's definitely highly durable for outdoors. Words of warning: black locust smells like wet dog, when wet, apparently. It is also a pain in the but to dry - it tends to warp and split, which fits as it tends to be a bit knotty and gnarly, so cut your boards oversize. Oh. And if you actually get some clear boards? I'd buy a few. I use it for martial arts gear for people who prefer lighter weapons.