TheFatBaron

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Everything posted by TheFatBaron

  1. Yep, I got this taken care of last night. A couple taps with the screw driver, and out popped a clip. Sigh. That's what I get for not thinking about what the clip actually does.
  2. You guys are geniuses! At no point do they make it clear what the e-clips actually do, or that you need to remove one to pull the pin out.
  3. Spent a bit of time on the phone with Grizz tech support. No answers yet, but I just got a chance to send pictures over. Figured I'd post them here in case. Ignore the gouge on one of the bolt heads. That's from the vise grips.
  4. Cooper - it's page 17, according to the page numbers, but the in actual pages in the PDF, it's page 29. I didn't think about checking the parts diagram. I'll take a look at that. TIODS - ah, youtube. I actually didn't think to check there. Time to go digging...
  5. And everything else I ordered, actually. Movers got my 15" Grizzly planer (G0453Z) into the basement unscathed, and got a giant tip for their trouble. It's out of the crate and my goal for the night was to get the foot pedal on so I could move it easily. I got the wheel on without a problem, but the foot pedal itself is driving me nuts. As shown in the manual (page 29 of this PDF), you need to remove the pin, e-clips, and washer. The only thing is... I can't figure out how to do this. It doesn't seem like something to pry/pull apart, and the whole thing seems to move when I rotate it. Obviously, their Tech Support is closed so, worst case, I can call while I'm at work tomorrow. In the meantime, I was hoping someone here has a similar planer and knows what to do.
  6. Ok, good to know. I didn't actually see anyone doing this and started to wonder if I was missing something obvious (most people just talk about 1-2° micro bevels).
  7. To compliment the new power tools, I'm going to buy a Veritas BU Jointer plane, for those times when my #5 just isn't big enough. A higher angle blade would help deal with grain changes, but I'm thinking, instead of buying a second blade, why not just put a 38° "micro" bevel (or pick your own angle) on the included 25° blade? Once established, it's just like any micro-bevel, yes?
  8. They're concrete, so it's not the weight exactly - more the general hazardous nature of the steps. Interesting that Jointers come apart easily, but that does make sense now that I think about it.
  9. Nothing's wrong with the Dewalt I'm aware of, other than questionable knives - but honestly, I'll probably just get a shelix and be done with that entirely (been spoiled by the helical cutter on the planer at the shop I rent space from). Just curious what else is there. I checked out the Steel City a while back. It was segmented, but not a shear cut. Seemed like a decent machine, though. I MAY be able to get a 15" planer down - I actually have to check the width of a doorway to make sure it'll fit.
  10. My basement stairs were most likely made by a blind person. They vary from 3-7" rise, 3-7" run. And then I'll have to get the machine through a door. I wish I was kidding. Here's the thought: Edge jointing a board by hand isn't terrible, unless the board is badly warped. Solutions? Don't buy bad boards, and get better with my hand planes. Flattening a face? Harder, but not impossible, especially if your goal is to create a stable board to pass through the planer. If I'm getting one machine right now, to me, that says "planer". Honestly, that was the main reason I was looking at the combo machine - it would probably sit as a planer 90% of the time, and switch to jointing when I had a lot of work to do. Ok, how about this? Is there a lunchbox planer that's worth comparing to the dewalt?
  11. To reiterate, I do not have much room in my basement. Money is less of an object than space if push came to shove. Mike - I have handplanes, which I'm not terrible with. Flattening isn't bad. Removing thickness, I find torturous. Particularly for smaller boards, I can easily take out enough twist/bow to run through a planer. And if a board is that badly warped, I'm normally only buying it if I'm cutting it down further. On the other topic - yeah, I could get an 8" jointer and a lunchbox planer and stay within budget. Space is still an issue, but at least the lunchbox planer is easy-ish to move out of the way.
  12. After seeing reasonably frequent positive reviews (and few negatives outside of shipping damage/clear lemons), I was going to buy the Rikon 10" Jointer/Planer w/ Helical Head. Of course, after committing to the electrical work, I go to order it and see that it's on out of stock... until July! Are their dates reliable? Consider it ships from the manufacturer, I assume they're just guessing. And before anyone asks, this is going in my basement, which has limited space and is somewhat hard to access, so a relatively compact, relatively lightweight machine appeals to me. The Jet 10" combos appear to suck, and the Grizzly 12" combo (with helical head) is $1,000 more, weighs 700+ pounds, and supposedly requires a 25A circuit at 220v (I hope that's a typo). The 12" jet is another $800 on top of that, and weighs 600lbs. At that point, I'd just buy a 20" planer and get better at edge jointing. Open to suggestions for other brands to check. Thanks.
  13. Thanks guys. Sometimes large boxes contain well-packed smaller boxes that make it easy to break down and transport. But it looks like that's probably not how this particular box works out.
  14. T - as soon as the electrical work is done in my basement, I'll be order this exact saw. Can you describe how the saw is packed? I have steel doors that open to a set of steps going down into my basement. I can probably manage the whole box with a couple friends and ramps and/or a hand truck, but I figure it might be safer to take the large parts down individually.
  15. It could also be cumaru, though it's native to central/south America.
  16. How long is it? Did you have any issues with "bouncing" on the lathe?
  17. @WTN - the smaller board is about 7" square, the larger is 7x12". They were actually designed to fit in his messenger bag, so the idea was to keep them about the same size as his laptop. If anyone asked, then yes - I absolutely could do the magnet thing. I'm not exactly sure how I'd embed them in the boards (I imagine in the underside of the plugs if they're strong enough. @TC - this is one of the reasons I've wanted to pick up turning. I'd love to have been able to make more interesting game pieces.
  18. I love the black table. What dye did you use? And, can we we get clearer photo of the base/legs? Hard to tell what's chair and what's table.
  19. A coworker asked me to build him two game boards... one for Nine Mens Morris (the square board), and one for Fanorona. They're old boardgames, popular several hundred years ago, and popularized recently by a video game which featured them as fun little minigames. The boards are cherry and walnut. The box for the game pieces is cherry and maple, with the sliding top held closed by rare earth magnets. Both were finished with Tung oil and wipe-on oil-based poly. The game pieces are scraps of live oak - the black ones were dunked in steel wool and vinegar, and finished with spray laquer. If I had to repeat... first, I'd find a better, more reliable way of doing the grooves - even if it meant buying a small router and then I'd just just inlay. It was too much of a pain rounding all of those edges and getting the finish wiped out. I'd also re-plan it to make it easier to match up the lines on the mitered edges on the Nine Mens Morris board. Also, I'd look for alternate solutions for the game pieces. I wanted to show off the long grain of the oak, which rules out just slicing dowels. I used a 1" holesaw in my drill press to cut out 1/2" thick blanks, but honestly, that was a pain since hole saws don't cut clean edges.
  20. Yeesh. No kidding. If someone is willing to give me enough money for bloodwood, sure, I'll do it... crazy people. Then again, considering it'll be muddy brown in a couple years, I'm not sure I'd really want to, to be honest.
  21. OK, here's #2. It was originally a Ferrari GTB silhouette, but I made a couple mistakes - notably, not thinking about how wide the interior should flair out, so I ended up just being "inspired" by the Ferrari. The body is black walnut, black locust, and jatoba. Headlights are maple, tail lights are bloodwood
  22. I use tung oil from Real Milk Paint Co (pure, food-grade, takes 3 days to dry if you're lucky) and I'll second almost everything that Eric shared. I got started using tung oil because it's the finish of choice for bokken (wooden training swords) because you do not want a film finish. I specifically use the Real Milk Paint variant lately because I can also use it for cutting boards and toys for my kid without feeling even slightly weird about it. I don't bother with inert gas. I buy the quart "squirt" bottles, which I find extremely convenient because I can mostly push the air out and I use it fast enough to not run into issues with it curing in the bottle on me. The worst issue is definitely the "oops, I left a spot of oil on too long." Not a huge problem for what I build, but I can see it being a huge pain around detailed work. The worst I've done was leave it sitting overnight with a coat of oil - I did that a couple times during the summer, which even in my basement, was warm and dry enough to make a mess. I left something a few weeks ago overnight, and got lucky that it was so cold and humid that I could still wipe off the oil. Normally I wipe after 30-60 minutes. Also, I generally go back 6-12 hours later and give it another wipedown. I've notice sometimes that the wood actually expels a little oil as it cures, and this'll help keep spots from forming. Good luck!
  23. wtn - 3/8" maple dowel in a 1/2" hole through the body. The wheels are glued on each end.The actual dimensions are about 14" long x 9" wide, with 2 1/8" wheels, so I had plenty of heft left in the body, and while there is some slop around the axle, it's fine, and I don't have to worry about it binding. The next one I make will be a little smaller (about 11 x 5, with 1.75" wheels), so I may have to rethink it for that one.
  24. Raefco - that's nice as well! I'll definitely check out the vintage Jags for inspiration for Round 2.
  25. I made this for my son's speech therapist. She saw a toy airplane I made, and asked if I could make something for her grandson. She had bought a car for him, but it was really poorly made. Anyway, last time I was at the woodshop, cleaned up some scraps, and glued/shaped everything over the course of a couple nights to a pattern based on a Morgan AeroMax. The main body is eucalyptus. The strip is jatoba, and the outer body portions are walnut. The wheels and lights are walnut and maple. Of course, my son saw this and assumed it was his. So now I have an excuse to make another one... this time, probably a vintage Ferrari.