TheFatBaron

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Everything posted by TheFatBaron

  1. Perhaps. The intrusion was months ago, but the question is when did they find out? Think about this this way: someone finds a spare key to your house, opens the door, and steals a fork or two. They don't trash anything - they just take a couple forks and walk away. You come home from work and are none the wiser until you have your inlaws over for dinner a month later realize you don't have enough forks for everyone and wonder, "what happened to my forks?"
  2. It's provided by the Google Authenticator app. Check your google account settings. There will be info there. Some non-google services (like Dropbox) also use this, and some other services (like Yahoo Mail) offer their own services.
  3. Essentially, it means that you require a piece of information OTHER than a password to log in. Normally it's a piece of information that's seemingly random and time-sensitive, meaning it's only valid for a short period of time. It is not, say, requiring you to put in your birthday, or a phone number, or other piece of info that doesn't change. For example, when I log into Gmail, after putting in my user name and password, I also have to go to my phone, open up a special app, and get a short code that is generated. I can't actually log into Google without that code. So, even if someone were to get my Gmail password, they'd also have to have stolen my phone and be able to unlock it. The code generated is unique to that phone and that particular copy of the app, so it's very hard to actually gain access.
  4. I haven't seen it mentioned here, but I know a lot of people here shop on eBay. There was a security breach that was just announced, which involved passwords (and some personal info) being stolen. The passwords are encrypted (and seemingly well-encrypted, since they haven't shown up for sale anywhere), but there is always a chance that they could be cracked, particularly if you have a crappy password. Log into eBay, change your password, and then change your password on any other site that shared the password. Note that eBay is getting hammered right now, and it may take a couple tries. What's a good password? A random mix of numbers, letters, and symbols that is not used elsewhere. The longer the better. Consider using a password manager like OnePassword/LastPass/KeePass that can generate good passwords for you.
  5. Granted this is references hickory, which is much stronger, but... (via http://thecarpentryway.blogspot.com/2009/10/bracing-situation-ii-tension-and.html) I'm sure you can find and calculate the relative strength of walnut compared to hickory, but I'd be willing to bet it's not the thickness of the legs relative to the vertical load, but the strength of the joinery so the legs don't wobble/splay.
  6. I always save a few for stickers/spacers, and cut some into wedges/keys/splines. Do you have use use for laminating them? I've actually got a project coming up where I'm just a little short on material, and am going to glue up similar types of scraps to make some panels a little bit wider.
  7. Heh. Krtwood, very true. I ordered a pint of the Behlens Walnut dye, and it looks just fine on poplar. Wipes on fairly easily too. Thanks for the advice, everyone. I'll be sure to take pictures of everything.
  8. Bleach may kill surface mold, but it will not penetrate and it will come back. Trust me on this. I believe they called my condition "allergic pneumonitis" or something like that. Assuming the mold was only on the table, removing it will probably be enough. An air purifier may help, but assuming no one is showing symptoms, I'd make sure the room is dry (run a dehumidifier), and potentially make sure air from the room is exhausting outside, not into the house in case there are mold spore floating about.
  9. I thought about it, but it'd end up being a lot more work for me as I envision it. Assuming I can find a place that actually has walnut ply near me (I don't know of anywhere, believe it or not), it's certainly not cheap, and I'd have to do lamination to get enough thickness and then actually make the edge banding. What I'd save in materials cost I'd probably lose in time.
  10. Dojo - martial arts school. Rank board - as people get a belt rank, their name goes on a wooden tag. These are sorted by rank. As your rank increases, you move up a slot. The highest slots are saved for the founder of the art, the current head of the art, the head of your organization, and your head instructor, etc. Some schools don't use them because they have too many students, or put too much emphasis on rank. The Japanese name is "nafudakake" (try typing that on your phone some time - you'll get GREAT autocorrect suggestions). They're also frequently used at temples in Japan to recognize people who donate money. I have a couple examples on Pinterest
  11. Speaking of Behlens/Mohawk - what would I dilute with, DNA?
  12. McQ - Actually, I do have a source for butternut!
  13. I'm only familiar in the general sense of "they're not forgiving." I don't have a spray setup, but for something this simple, I'm pretty confident in my ability to work fast. Drips though.... ugh. Hopefully I can get this into a more reasonable cost without relying on dying.
  14. TripleH - amazing. Thank you! I have scraps of both pieces at home. Maple will probably be closer, though. NGR = Non Grain Raising... like these?
  15. First, let's get this out of the way: no, it's never going to look exactly like walnut. A client (and I use the word loosely) I've working with before has asked me to make a rank board for their dojo that's 27' long x 18" high. The basic design is this: Even though it's simple, at 27' long, it will get pricy, fast, using walnut (to match a torii I did for them earlier). So, I'm going to look into ways to reduce wood usage and maintain walnut as a primary wood, or using maple or white oak as a secondary wood (since they're about 2/3 the cost in my area). As a worst-case-scenario, though, I might have to give up on matching the walnut entirely. This won't be in close proximity to the other piece I did for them, so the matching doesn't have to be exact... but I'm starting to look at wood/stain combinations that would provide a similar appearance. Thoughts?
  16. The accident chain part is most interesting. I got my pilots license years ago (now sadly out of date), my brother is a mechanic for a major airline, and even now in my career in web design/technology... it's commonly accepted that any single incident/accident/bug has multiple causes and multiple points of failure before, during, and after the actual event.
  17. Having working with small pieces of live oak, I'd recommend using any power method available to get it at least mostly flat. That is seriously hard wood. My planes/spokeshaves (which work fine on jatoba, hickory and black locust) bounce off it. Flattening a big slab by hand will be torture on you and your tools.
  18. Wilbur - you're not that far, but really, it's NJ. Traffic excluded, it's not that far from me to any point in NJ - except far NW Sussex County. It would be a good excuse to take a Work From Home day and check out a CJWA meeting.
  19. You can do either with engineered (you can nail it down, too), but I believe you're always supposed to have a moisture barrier of some sort.
  20. THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR. No, seriously, that's my exact problem. It's too late tonight to try it out but I have plenty of scrap to try that on. I've looked through Paul Sellers' youtube videos. I like them, but they (and most of what I found elsewhere) were "here's how to setup and use a handplane" videos, where they check with a square a couple times and things are flat and level. No "if you constantly run into this issue, try standing differently, or applying pressure differently. I'll check into the David Charlesworth videos, and see if PW has anything online. I don't really want to pay for a full video set when, at the moment, the solution to my problem will be 30 seconds of reading/watching, and an hour or so of doing.
  21. I still struggle pretty regularly to plane even small-ish boards square. I frequently feel like it's more luck that skill. Clearly I need to practice, but I've also found videos in the past (I believe on both The Renaissance Woodworker and Logan Cabinet Shop) that focused on body mechanics to improve, say, sawing in a straight line. Has anyone seen any similar videos for planing?
  22. I have engineered Lyptus on the second floor of my house because we were concerned about the temperature swings - it's not unbearable by any means, but it's still a second floor, and it's toasty in the summers. Also, we didn't want to nail down the floor due to the old subfloor underneath. I can say that the finish is much more durable than anything I've seen on in-home refinishing. I assume they're using the nastiest, hardest finish they can find - because they've got the ventilation to handle it. That's been told to me by multiple flooring dealers AND refinishers. Several years on, they look like new, except where I accidentally dropped a block plane when I was fitting a door for a knee wall. It just put in a nice dent. Cat litter (and the occasional cat vomit) hasn't done much to it. Also, just to avoid confusion: Woodsap above seems to be referencing laminate - veneer on particleboard, basically. You're talking about engineered - essentially plywood with a hardwood layer on top, correct?
  23. I got inspired to practice my dovetails by making some dovetail markers... scrap maple and bloodwood.
  24. The BBB for my area is shockingly limited, but they're who I've searched through (besides general google searches). At this point, I'm mostly getting responses from people who install kraftmaid (or comparable cabinets) and the like. Which is fine, but we're trying to get an estimate on a full range of options. And no, not building the cabinets myself. I don't have the time (or the skill, probably) to assemble/hang everything with a fulltime job and a 2 year old - particularly with the amount of non-cabinet work to do.
  25. We're in the process of redoing our kitchen... taking out existing cabinets, knocking out drywall, taking it down to studs in a couple spots, and ripping out the existing exhaust fan. We're having trouble finding anyone that does custom work in the area. Everyone seems to do stock cabinetry. Which isn't bad... but it's small kitchen. I'd be shocked if custom came out significantly more than mid-range stock. Anyone have leads? We're not looking to be GCs on the project. I'd love to find someone who can come in, knock out the existing stuff, put up the new. Any leads>