TheFatBaron

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Everything posted by TheFatBaron

  1. Damnit! That's what I get for posting late at night... I miss the obvious puns!
  2. In an attempt to turn my child into an airplane geek (and also use up some of the scrap wood I have and work on my hand joinery skills, I decided to make a toy airplane out of some scrap walnut, hickory and maple. I have to admit, I actually cheated on attaching the engines and landing gear - they're doweled on with bamboo skewers. I saw that trick somewhere, and decided it would be much faster (and more reliable) than trying to get those itty-bitty mortice and tenons cut by hand (the plane is only about 12" long). It turned out pretty nice, but I ended up with a couple dumb design challenges. First, I had to cut out a lot of detail. Without a lathe, some things just aren't practical. With a lathe, I'd probably still have cut out a lot of detail. Even shaping the wings was annoying because I wanted to get an actual wing profile. For the sake of strength and simplicity though, I decided to just round the corners, and not worry about getting the dihedral angle right. If I was doing this as anythign other than an excuse to play and use up scrap wood, I'd have figured out a way to get a little more detail in. Even something as simple as laminating the body to get a stripe of color could have been neat. Of course, I don't think my kid is going to care about any of this. He's 2. He'll just by happy to have a new toy
  3. When in doubt, actually call your town's inspectors. It sounds like you're pretty committed to doing it right. Mine were (once you actually got to talk to one) pretty helpful. If you're committed to doing it right, that involves getting permits, so you might as well talk to them, pay the money to submit some plans, let them fail you for whatever is wrong, and fix it.
  4. This show is on a terrible weekend for me every damned time. It's only 30 minutes from my house too. One of these days...
  5. williaty - I agree, particularly with what Josh G. said. Josh G. - I'll be curious to know your results long-term, but I think short term I'll stick with a 1/2" or 5/8" blade. 1/16" of leeway does not inspire confidence. Nick - I know, I saw. Unfortunately, this will be going in my basement, and I would have a significant amount of work to do to even get the bandsaw in there until I get some of the patio furniture outside.
  6. PB - Thank you! If the motor is actually operating at the listed 1.75HP, I don't think that would be a problem, but the I didn't think about the amount of heat the shorter blade would have to deal with from the increased friction.
  7. Laguna customer service says yes and the manual says yes, but as PB and Arminius point out, there is a big difference between "a 3/4" blade will physically fit on this bandsaw" and "this saw is capable of actually using a 3/4" blade without long-term damage."
  8. Ok, so, again - what should I be looking for to determine if the saw can actually handle a 3/4" blade in semi-regular, long-term use? (I've seen people use them with this saw in reviews, but no details on long-term usage). The question is largely academic at this point.
  9. Ok. I'll double check the tire width before I actually order the 2nd blade. I'm guessing I need a tire that's wider than 3/4", assuming the deepest part of the gullet rides in the center of the wheel. Otherwise, assuming the saw can actually handle that wider blade, are my assumptions about stability/mechanical effort correct?
  10. The website and saw manual clearly states that it can take up to 3/4" blades. If you go to http://www.lagunatools.com/bandsaws/1412-Bandsaw, scroll down a bit and look under "capacity." Is there something else I should be measuring/looking at? (I don't have the saw yet, so I'm going off of what materials I can find online).
  11. I'm pretty much settled on my bandsaw choice (Laguna 1412), and I'm going to pick up a couple blades as well. I'll get a 1/4" blade for tighter curves, but I want to pick up a bigger blade for rip cuts and occasional resawing. Assuming I go for a quality blade like a Woodslicer or the Laguna blades (not a resaw king)... is there a practical reason to go for a 3/4" blade over a 1/2" blade, or vice versa? Let's assume I'm talking about pure straight-line performance, with a blade that's otherwise identical -except- for that one dimension. Thinking about the mechanics of it, a 3/4" blade is more stable in a straight line, but also takes more effort to move through the wood. Is there something else I should be thinking about?
  12. If you do decide to put up drywall yourself, be sure to rent a good drywall screw gun. It'll save you a ton of effort (and tendonitis, and stripped screws, and broken screws, and every other sort of horror imaginable).
  13. I've used a couple bandsaws... a 14" Jet, and a 16" Steel City (the sizes might be off, but it sounds about right) at the shop I rent time at. The Jet is fine, but it's small, and generally set up with a 1/4" (or similar) blade for curves. The bigger SC saw drives me nuts. I'm not sure if the blade is crap (it's normally got a 1"-ish blade), but it wanders all over the place, and the fence is a piece of crap. It's probably a combination of not being a great machine and not being well set up.
  14. I just wanted to say this is a great discussion. My wife agreed that I should spend some of my yearly bonus on tools to reduce the time spent driving to my woodshop. I figure a lunchbox planer will be one of the purchases, and a new hand plane or two, but the whole tracksaw vs bandsaw vs tablesaw issue is complicated due to the lack of space, bad access, and the fact that I only have 2 open slots in my breaker panel (plus 2 taken up by a 220 breaker that's totally disconnected). On the bandsaw issue, the one thing is that it seems much easier to control dust from a bandsaw, even with a shopvac, than a tablesaw.
  15. Even more in-progress photos. Oiling, oiling, oiling. I posted one or two of these in another thread. I purposely picked the boards with sapwood for the grain and color variation. Final assembly (well, before being disassembled to fit in my car, and re-assembled and installed).
  16. Some random in-progress shots. After milling and rough cutting the pieces: I managed to mess up the top piece and instead of cutting a tongue and groove, I cut two grooves. Oops. Fortunately, cutting spline fixed it. Still, pretty dumb. Making sure the lower lintel fits. I was shocked to see everything actually fit together, and even square up. I was worried I badly mis-cut something, and would have to redo an entire piece (or two). I've never made anything this big before outside of framing walls, so I measured everything 5 or 6 times before cutting. A close up of the opposing wedges for the lower lintel. The lintel forms a cogged joint with the through mortise, and opposing wedges are tapped in to lock it in place. I cut the angle on the wedges by hand, and they were just different enough that I ended up using a stamp to mark which wedges pair up.
  17. After seeing some of the random work I've done, an Aikido dojo in Washington DC asked me to make a torii (freestanding gate) for them to use as part of their kamiza (head seat/focal area). Since torii are supposed to mark the boundary between the outside world and the sacred (or, at least, denote an area that is more "special" - this usage does kind of make sense. Using Chris Hall's excellent gate guide, I proposed a couple options (all maintaining the proper 1:3:1 horizontal dimensions, and settled on a kashima torii. Basically, it's 2 vertical posts with an angled lintel at the top, and a small lintel below that is locked with opposing wedges). They had some sword racks built out of oak and stained "walnut"... so they asked for black walnut to match. The pieces were all milled from rough stock, and cut/finished by hand (except for the mortices - cutting a 4 x .75" through mortice in a 4" thick piece of walnut did not sound like fun, so I used a drill press for the waste. It came together fairly well, though I had problems getting the tenon shoulders to sit properly. My homemade shoulder/rabbet plane worked out well, though. The boards were smoothed without sandpaper (well, except for some 600 grit sandpaper between oil coats) - which taught me some valuable lessons about stock selection. If I do this again, I will budget for clearer wood. My spokeshave actually saved me on this in multiple places where the grain was too odd for my smoothing plane to take a clean shaving. The actual finish is tung oil. It's held onto the wall by a metal cleat (recessed into the top lintel) and screws/keyhole mounts at the bottom of the legs to make sure they stey on, even if the wood moves. Oddly, installation had me working in a fairly traditional Japanese manner - sitting on a tatami, with the piece propped up on 2x4s, using a ryoba to trim 2" off the bottom of the legs because the initial measurements were wrong. For the record, that was after 3.5 hours of sword practice, so I was tired and stiff, and really wishing for my (power) miter saw right then. A couple closeup photos...
  18. I've made a wooden fence to go with my jack plane to help square up edges. I secure it with c-clamps. I can imagine how much it improves a rabbet plane.
  19. Sometimes, at least. These pieces of walnut are the lintels for a small Japanese gate (torii) I'm building. It'll be indoors, so I'm not worried about damage from insects or the elements. Anyway, I was listening to the latest WTO, and thinking that, while i wouldn't want an all-sapwood board, it can occasionally be useful.
  20. Welcome Frede - I live in Hamilton as well!
  21. Nope. In my former life as an art major (and when I used to design printed pieces) I got good at doing things on the cheap. What you see above was taken in my backyard, on a sunny day, on 4 sheets of white foamcore board. For some pieces (particularly smaller ones), I can prop up a piece of foamcore for a decent backdrop. I also have put together posterboard or cloth "seamless" backgrounds using pvc pipe scraps ("real" seamless backgrounds are often matte acrylic with different color paper over top). Generally, though, it's just as easy for me to retouch out the seams between the boards and even out the backgrounds myself. I also shoot indoors sometimes, using clip lamps, high-ish output CFL/Halogen bulbs, a tripod, and the previously mentioned foamcore. I use a Pentax K-X (their entry-level DSLR) with a fixed 50MM lens, shoot in RAW, and retouch in photoshop. I try to only fix color cast issues, exposure, random dust particles, and other defects in the photo.
  22. Actually, I do kind of use this method. My planing stops are random pieces of square-ish scraps, 2 bolts, and some threaded insert nuts into plywood (like 3 layers since I just put a new layer of 3/4" birch over the bench from the previous owner). Otherwise, I have a machine vise and hand clamps. I was just making through mortices (4" x 3/4") in a 8' piece of walnut on my drill press and stabilized the far end by screwing a scrap of 2x4 to the bench (it had to hang off the end to actually support the piece), then clamped a couple pieces of scrap to it to bring it up to the right level.
  23. This is totally doable. You can always buy a shoulder plane kit from Hock Tools, but I just made one from scrap wood and a LN rabbetting block plane blade.
  24. Maybe bring a wedge to keep the kerf open in the back edge of the cut?