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Everything posted by Eric_Sweeney

  1. I placed an order last week for about $300 with Woodpecker's and it hadn't shipped yet so, I went ahead and cancelled that order and got the PRL V2 instead. I guess I will be putting the Mast-R-Lift up for sale on Craigs list here in Phoenix.
  2. I bought the Jessem Mast-R-Lift a while back when they made some in China and then decided they werent going to offshore stuff and then put eveything they had made off-shore at 1/2 price to sell them all. I finally rebuilt my router table and just now got around to using the lift. Right after I bought the thing I read that my router the Milwaukee 5625 isnt one of the routers the lift supports directly and you had to buy a shim so I bought the shim. I loosened the main bolt and tried installing the router with the shim on it but was too tight. Even without the shim the router is tough to
  3. In know exactly what you are talking about. Think about your desk when you were in school. Did you ever have the kind where the desktop swivels up and to the right and then hangs down to the side? maybe you can rig up something like that?
  4. Here is the project so far, still need to make the pullouts, doors and drill the router plate and attach new router. I didn't get as much done as I had hoped because my new little helper kept falling asleep on the job.
  5. The door will be vented, it just isnt shown in the drawing.
  6. After further review and input from others, I've revised the plan. The cabinet will be 29 1/2 wide x 19 1/2 deep x 34 tall (+ casters of 3 or 4 inches). This will give me an overhang of 2 inches for the top all the way around except the side with the power switch will be 4 inches. The cabinet will have 4 compartments that are 13 5/8 wide x 15 tall x 18 3/4 deep. The router compartment will have a 4 " dust port on the back and a vented door on the front (not shown in drawing). the other 3 compartments will have slide outs based on the items I need to store there rather than drawers to give
  7. TimWood, All good points and things I will think about. Thanks!! All comments and input appreciated. I was originally planning to put the switch in the front as you suggest but, I was afraid that I was going to accidently bump it. The more I think about it, the less likely I think it will happen. I hadn't really put much thought into the drawers except that there are more of them than I have in my existing table and that should be sufficient (i hope). I have found (in the past) that one of two things usually happens when i try to plan everything out - either I end up in analysis p
  8. I did some searching around ladt night and found a couple pictures of some offset tables that had some features that I liked so, I played around with sketchup late last night to try and capture those features. It is still pretty rough but, here is the initial design (all comments/recommendations welcome). I'll refine it over the next week or so as I finish up other projects and then probably start building it next weekend. I'll post some pictures when complete. The door in the front of the router compartment will eithr be vented or maybe I won't put a door at all and skip the DC port in
  9. I bought the imported Mast-R-Lift back when they had that special deal and it has been sitting there in the box waiting for my to get off my butt and build a new router table. I will be using that and the big Milwaukee router from my existing table. I also bought one of those paddle power switches a while back when it was on sale along with some other stuff all sitting there waiting... So now I have these INCRA items I just ordered that should arrive next week and I have no more excuses - I need to design and build a cabinet for it all. I'm excited to start, I just have to finish up the
  10. I placed my order today for the LS-17 Super System and table. Amazon didn't have the 27 x 43 table in-stock so I opted for the 24 x 36 table instead. I am just a hobbiest so, this top should be fine for me. I plan on making my own cabinet rather than buying their stand. Anyone have this setup? Anyone have pictures or plans of the stand/cabinet they made for theirs. Any hints or gotcha items that I should know about? Thanks in advance for any info you can provide.
  11. its a lot faster to take your time and do it right rather than to have to do it all over again cause you got it wrong.
  12. John, it is melamine. There is a place here in town that buys things in lots. They had a great deal a few months back on some 3/4" white on one side brown on the other melamine that they got from a cabinet shop going out of business so I picked up 10 sheets (8 x 4) for $179.00. The cabinets in the background I made before I got the great deal on the melamine so those are 5/8" all white melamine. I made several base cabinets and upper cabinets. Here are a couple photos of them. One of these days I'll clean up the shop and do a proper set of photos.
  13. I am very happy with it. It is a very nice saw that does a really nice job and I really like the idea of the safety feature. I lost concentration after a series of thin cuts (with no blade guard) with my old saw and let my right hand drift over the saw blade coming back from the last cut and cut my thumb. It wasn't too bad although it was deep enough to chip the bone and require 4 stitches. Even a minor injury like that cost $1500 and would have paid for half of the saw stop. Now I have a thumb with a bump under the skin (scar tissue) and a resultant dead spot (can't feel anything there).
  14. I just completed a 3 drawer storage cabinet for under the saw to hold all of my saw blades, push sticks, featherboards, etc... The top drawer holds pencils, pens, and a few specific tools for the saw (allen wrenches etc..) The middle drawer holds all of the push blocks and stuff and the bottom drawer is for the saw blades.
  15. I finally got around to making an outfeed table for my new tablesaw. I've been using another table that i modified to work but, not well enough. My new outfeed table is 49 inches wide by 60 inches long. My goal was to include a dust collection pipe through the middle of the table since there was going to be some deadspace there anyway. I also wanted to include some storage and have doors so it wouldn't be filled with dust.
  16. I agree. Use a Circ saw with the sheet material resting on some rigid foam insulation for full support of the material and a straight edge clamped to the sheet material is the way to go unless you want to spring for a track saw. Just make sure you have a half-way decent blade for the circ saw (not the junk blade it comes with).
  17. Hey Ken, I did this very same project a few months ago for my own home office. I made cabinets, desks, shelf. I did it in a couple of phases. One of the very first steps that I did was to put the office into sketchup so that I could try different designs and see how it would look. Anyway, here are some links to the 3 phases of the project.
  18. My first ever (real) project was for my wife. She wanted to replace the ugly shelves that came with the house with some cabinets. Here are the original shelves: Here is the space after removing the shelves: Here are the completed cabinets. (unfortunately, it is a very small room and I couldnt backup far enough for a good shot):
  19. I just put a bottom on the middle section. What I did was make the middle section like a drawer and then just screwed it into the front and back stretchers. Not very elegant but, it works. I didnt finish the middle section because I was going to put some kind of liner in it but, haven't done it yet.
  20. I just made one of these out of poplar (she wanted to go cheap on the wood) for my wife a couple weeks ago. I routed the pocket for the mirror and then used epoxy to glue in the mirror and then made a frame that overlapped the mirror slightly as an extra precaution and also to add a little decoration to it. I used a single piece for the top and then cut it into sections afterwards. Not my best work but, the wife loves it.
  21. Nice job and doing it with leftover pieces from a previous job is even better! I like the leg detail.
  22. After using the clamps some more over the last few days in finishing the vanity table I am making, the head movement is getting a little better and I think that with a little more break-in time they will be fine. Overall: I like the clamps and think that they are a good alternative to some of the higher cost clamps when you are on a budget or don't need all of the clamping power of the bigger clamps or you are concerned with the weight of the clamps on some of the lighter projects. I have been using them exclusively for the last couple weeks on a couple projects and never once felt that I
  23. The clamps in use. I first used the clamps to assemble up a drawer I made to replace a damaged one, the clamps worked great easily supported the drawer and everything remained square. I next used the clamps on a vanity table I was making to assemble the end panels, the face frame and the top. The clamps easily handled all of these tasks and performed well. Handles: Like I said in my initial post, I don't mind the look of the handles, I would just prefer a beefier one like on the Revo model. I have a set of Jet F-style clamps that have a nice handle that I really like. Weight: I t