Scott Seganti

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Everything posted by Scott Seganti

  1. Please keep in mind I have no affiliation with any of these companies. I posted the tool steel used by each company for reference, but the reality is that they are essentially the same. I currently use Thompson Lathe Tools. They use CPM10V (A-11) a powder metal tool steel. http://thompsonlathetools.com Peachtree Woodworking Supply sells Robert Sorby unhandled tools. They use M2 tool steel. http://www.ptreeusa.com/turning_tools_unhandled.htm Carter and Son sells them unhanded but they are very expensive. They use M42 tool steel. http://carterandsontoolworks.com D-Way Tools also sells unhanded tools but they tend to be a little more expensive. They use M42 tool steel. http://d-waytools.com The picture below shows two brand new (never sharpened) 1/2" spindle gouges. The black one is a Thompson tool and the silver one is a Robert Sorby tool. It's a pretty big difference in length... just something to keep in mind when comparing tools. You're not always comparing apples to apples and unfortunately you don't know this when buying online. Just some food for thought.
  2. Thank you for the feedback wtnhighlander. This kind of feedback helps me a lot. I did notice that I missed a few transitions after publishing the video along with a few other items... I will make it a point to pay closer attention to those in the next video.
  3. Thanks for your feedback Matt. I will add a list of items needed in the description... good idea. I did turn the entire thing with my roughing gouge with exception to cutting the tenon for the ferrule. I agree that using a skew would work great here and is arguably the best tool for the job... but I didn't have one to use. The handle that I made was for my new skew . It also seems most people are scared of the skew, so this just shows another approach. Yes I did sand the tool up to 220 and applied a tung oil finish. I filmed those but decided to leave them out in an effort to keep the video short... in hindsight I should have put a quick clip in there to explain what I did for the finish. Thanks for your feedback.
  4. I just made a new video on how I make woodturning handles. If you wouldn't mind checking it out and providing feedback, I'd appreciate it. Thanks Scott https://youtu.be/jpzoXaAUR_o
  5. I like it... I think your solution should work well. You'll have to let us know how it works out when everything is together. I was just able to download the file without any problem. I posted it when I sent the last comment... maybe it needed some time. I think I like your new solutions better anyway.
  6. I am in the process of putting a video together that outlines your options for that front rail joinery. To answer your question (at least from my perspective); if you are using the knockdown method and want to incorporate the crisscross into your bench... there really is no better way then to use the wider rail and set the bolt behind the crisscross mortise cavity. It allows the tenon and the front rail to be pulled into the leg, making a nice strong joint. With that being said, I also think you could try the suggestion you made and be OK... I'm just not sure it's the best solution. Out of curiosity, what reservations do you have with the wider rail and shorter tenon? Even though I don't recommend it, I put together a sketchup file for you showing your suggestion. You can download it here: http://www.woodtalkonline.com/files/file/83-knockdown-hardware-bottom/ If you try this as a solution, I would be curious to know how it turned out. Cheers, Scott
  7. If you're fortunate enough to have more then one hardwood dealer in your area (even if you have to drive an hour or so away), it's definitely worth shopping around. I needed 12/4 cherry for a project last weekend; Woodworkers Source charges $15/board foot... another dealer here in my area charges $8/board foot saving me a boat load of money. Even if it's only a dollar difference; it adds up quickly when you start counting up the board feet.
  8. The LN tool events that I've been to don't have planes for sale on-site. You can try everything they have to offer and get that hands on time prior to purchase, but you still need to purchase them online / mail order.
  9. If you are just trying to figure out the value of various wood species I would just look at hardwood dealers who offer online prices. Here are two examples: http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/index.html http://www.bellforestproducts.com/ As you read through these sites, there may or may not be some terminology that you don't understand. Here is a link that should help you understand some of the lingo: http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/hardwoods/wood_glossary/wood_glossary.html These are just a quick reference. If you find that there are specific terms or topics you don't understand; just ask the question on this forum and I'm sure someone will steer you in the right direction. Cheers, Scott
  10. The end cap that is incorporated into this design serves a purpose; which is to provide a stable mounting point for the tail vise. There are no advantages to adding the end cap to both ends other then aesthetics. I've seen a few people who like the look of putting an end cap on both ends as well as both slabs. There really are no disadvantages if you prefer to go that route.
  11. I'm not offering a solution to your problem, but I am curious about the cause. How you mill your stock can play a big part in how your lumber reacts. My guess is that the stresses were there before you applied the finish and the water based finish was the catalyst that put them in motion. Check out this test Rob Bois did regarding this subject: http://theboisshop.blogspot.com/2010/08/flat-truth-about-milling-stock.html?m=1 Make sure you read the comments as well. I'm curious to hear your thoughts.
  12. If you look at the joinery using the xray mode it really helps you understand how everything is tying together. I forgot to mention that there are some inherent problems with the Benchcrafted knock down solution. I laid out the sketchup file per their installation instructions. The tenon on the front rail is smaller then the mortise. I'm not sure why that did this but I would probably make the tenon fit tightly into the mortise or call Benchcrafted to find out their reasoning. The new method Benchcrafted employes for the knock down method is to move the bolt back (towards the back of the bench) so that the bolt is behind the Crisscross mortise. Because they are moving the bolt back; it now goes through the short rail's mortise and tenon joint. The counter sink for the bolt is only 1/16" away from the short rail mortise. This may be OK since the tenon will add support, but 1/16" is a little too close for my comfort. Hopefully this all makes sense. Cheers Scott
  13. Alex, Sorry for not responding sooner. The thing I'm struggling with is how to deal with the long front rail and how it ties into the leg. The existing plans have the mortise and tenon associated with the long front rail occupying the same space as the new mortise for the crisscross. The crisscross plans explain how do deal with it for people who used the knock down method (bolting the long rails into the legs), which requires people wanting to retrofit the leg vise to install a new thicker front rail. They would then have to re-drill the bolt hole through the leg and into the new rail leaving the original bolt hole empty. The new bolt hole would be set back behind the crisscross mortise. For those who followed Marc's method of using the draw bore technique for attaching the front rail may be in better shape. The mortise and tenon for the front rail stick into the crisscross mortise by about 3/16", so removing that much material from the existing tenon shouldn't cause any problems. Since I'm starting from scratch I'm contemplating the best design to use with the draw bore technique. I have attached a sketchup drawing that shows the following views, which are tabbed across the top of sketchup: The Original Layout shown with the crisscross mortise. Close up of the problem shown with where the bolt goes through the crisscross mortise. Knock down method with the new dimensions given in the crisscross installation instructions. I did not show where the original hole was and don't know how it would affect the new design supplied by Benchcrafted. Draw bore with the tenon trimmed down to avoid the crisscross mortise I am still playing with the draw bore solution and will post a new file if I come up with something else. Hopefully this will help anyone looking to incorporate the crisscross into their bench. I posted the file in the sketchup section on this site here: http://www.woodtalkonline.com/files/file/75-scott-seganti/ Please note I copied the front leg section from the original file supplied by Marc and modified it.
  14. Alex, You are correct regarding the need for a new chop if retrofitting. If you look on page 2 of the new Benchcrafted crisscross plans it states "Our Glide vises with roller brackets will require a new, longer chop". This is something that many people may not realize until after they order the new hardware. Your calculations regarding the required chop length are correct as well. Using Marc and Arron's plans 31 1/2" would be the chops overall length. I'm doing a fresh install of the crisscross (not a retrofit) and have been working on the Sketchup drawings to insure I've got it dialed in before I start. I'm still waiting for my hardware to arrive.
  15. I think Rob is right on with his analysis. It looks like the wood is blotching. This is normal... so you're probably not doing anything wrong to cause this to happen; however, there are steps you can take to avoid it. As Rob mentions, applying shellac as your 1st coat will help considerably. I have not used Charles Neil's blotch control, but every person I speak to who has used it says it works much better then shellac. Please let us know how you make out. Scott
  16. Nice job Chris. What did you use to cut the stainless steel down to size?
  17. If you have never used a hand plane, I highly recommend you try to incorporate them into your woodworking. I constantly see people asking the question "which hand plane should I get?". This question is very similar to which utensil should I buy. There are many different types of planes just like there are different types of utensils... each with a specific use. A fork, knife, and spoon all have different uses but they are all utensils; hand planes are very similar. Everyone can share their opinion on which hand plane to purchase first just like anyone can share their opinion on which utensil to buy first. Someone who predominantly eats cereal every day may suggest that a spoon is the best utensil to buy first, but this wouldn't be a good choice for someone who eats steak every day. Woodworking forums are a great resource for information, but sometimes a book on the subject is simply the better way to go. If you are interested in hand planes, I highly recommend Chris Schwarz's book: Handplane Essentials The book isn't cheap, but it's worth the investment if hand planes are something you want to start using. The book is an all inclusive guide that covers essentially every aspect of hand planes including types and their uses. Just my two cents!
  18. I found this over on Lumberjocks and thought the folks here might find it interesting. http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/3065
  19. I have been researching dust collection systems a lot lately and I'm curious about two of the above statements. Why is Bill's design "the best" or "better"? How is his design different then other cyclone vendors? The answers to these questions will certainly help with my research. Thanks!
  20. I'm always impressed by this kind of craftsmanship. I didn't realize David Attenborough started doing these documentaries so young... he looks like he was in his 20's. Thanks for sharing!
  21. Why not just cut the tenon off and cut in a new tenon? If you followed the plans the overall length is currently longer then the final length of the top slab. Starting length should have been 96" and the final length should be 87". Do you have any wiggle room in the overall length? If you don't have the extra length to work with... you could just have your bench be a couple of inches shorter then the plan. This seems like the best way to go if you can't use the bottom as the top as Marc suggested.
  22. I mainly use my TS55 for cutting down sheet goods, but I do use it in other applications as well. Yes you can use it without the track. If you're making cuts that don't need to be overly accurate, free handing it is a good quick way to go... but one of the biggest advantages to this saw is the ease of use and accuracy gained by using the track. The other huge advantage is the dust collection. I am still amazed at how well the TS55 handles saw dust. Some food for thought... you need to think about are the accessories associated with the track. The main accessory that you'll need are clamps to secure the track to your work piece. The tracks and clamps are not cheap.
  23. To follow up on Bob's post above... you should also check out his video blog. He goes over the carving tool buying process and gives a great tutorial on carving ball and claw feet. His site is tagged at the bottom of his post or you can check it out here: http://www.logancabinetshoppe.com/
  24. Josh... I can't think of a reason why the fence would need to be away from the bit other then getting it out of the way when not being used. Setting the router towards the back of the table will give you more support where you need it.
  25. I think the idea behind putting a clamp in the split top is more in line with clamping pieces to the front of the bench and not the top. You can put one end of a parallel clamp in the split with the other end towards the front of the bench and use it like a sliding leg vise. I know you can do the same thing using the 'back' side of the bench, but if the 'back' side of the bench is against the wall... the split top slot will give you a clamping point. It also allows you to use shorter clamps in this scenario... not that it's a necessity.