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    Just beginning to get away from box store pine and get into hardwoods.

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cyclingneko's Achievements

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  1. I need to vent... After doing a search on WTO. I found a few topics that were exactly what I was looking for. Someone has a problem, asks a question. Many people try to help, the person replies a few times, then leaves the topic dead without giving their final fix/ results even after people ask sometimes a week or two later. Just bothers me! Thanks for allowing me to vent.
  2. Did you ever get started on this project? I'm thinking of building something similar but plan to use mahogany for the shelves and "countertop", I'm debating on using it for the doors or maybe just the raised panels in the door. I have some really pretty waterfall bubinga vaneer I was thinking maybe using for the door panels. I also won't be using the beaded panels. I plan to also add a third section, each shelf section being 30 inches wide for 90 inch wide total.
  3. Well, I went back out with intensions to maybe enlongate the holes on the front of the saw, and I was thinking maybe I'd use some smaller bolts to lower the rails a bit also. I decided to measure just how high the fence is off the saw, as my 1/4 inch was eyeballing. The height is actually closer to 3/16th maybe even as low as 5/32's. Not really as bad as I thought initially. I did cut down the back guide block to lower the rear of the fence closer to 1/8th. This should be good for 99% of my cut's but on the rare occaision of dealing with extremely thin material, I'll clamp on an auxillary fence. As for the screws holding the indicator in place, I took them off to see what kind of threads they use, and to my surprise there was a washer also. I should have noticed yesturday, but wasn't extremely worried about it then. I pulled out the washers and that got one screw down completely out of the way, and the other I had to grind down a tiny bit. Now they are both completely out of the way. I guess you can take any negatives I had about the fence and throw them out of the window. I am extremely please to say the least. Possibly the best 150$ my shop has ever seen.
  4. Yep you guys are right. The problem is I don't have the know how or tooling required to elongate these large counter sunk holes in this thick angle iron. I could elongate the holes on the tabletop much easier but they are already quite close to the bottom edge of the table, I'm not sure I'm comfortable getting much closer. The rear would also be a problem because the holes in the angle iron are already very close to the corner not leaving much room for a washer ( I had to grind down one side of a washer to get it to lay flat.). Another option for the rear would be to just cut down the plastic guide block, but i still need to deal with the front. With these limitations in mind it seemed better for me to accept the height of the fence and hopefully the screws will be an easy fix.
  5. OK, I got the Delta T2 and installed it today. So far, I'm very happy with it! Installation went better than I expected. The holes didn't line up between the tabletop and the rails, expected that. So I lined up one of the holes. For the second attachment on the front rail I drilled the tabletop. The angle iron had countersunk holes for the mounting screws, so it was easier to drill the tabletop than drilling the angle iron and trying to bore a perfectly centered countersink. Easy! For the back rail I used the existing holes on the table top, and drilled the angle iron. On the rear the table top the holes were threaded, and there isn't much clearance between the edge of the table and the "cabinet" of the saw. Thus making it easier to use the table's existing holes. The most challening thing was actually mounting the power switch. the bracket that mounted in on the back side of the old fence was at about a 45 degree angle. I ended up using a dremel to cut a groove in the mounting bracket, I'd dremel then try to bend it, dremel some more and so on. Finally I got it thin enough to bend. I bent it and then welded the seam, reminding me how lacking my welding skills are, UGLY. I drilled a couple holes in the front tube and bolted it on. So far I love the fence but there are some things I don't like. The first is after I adjusted the fence to be as close to the table top as possible it is still 1/4"+ off the table. I"ll just have to throw on an auxilary fence for cutting thin stock. Also if you try to use the right side of the fence, the screws which hold the line indicator sit up above the table top, I'm going to look to get some lower profile screw's. They are quite large pan head screws and they don't stick up a ton, just enough to catch. I thought "well I never use the right side of the fence anyways," but I just realized while typing this that over the fence style jigs will hit the screws, so they need to be taken care of.
  6. I bought a Delta T2 as my fence upgrade and I'm very happy with it, makes a good saw for the price a great saw for the price, maybe... One problem though. After installing the new fence and squaring it up the the miter slot, it wasn't square to the blade. I spent probably 2 hours aligning the blade to the miter slot when I first bought the saw 4 or 5 months ago. It was a real pain in the neck to do, I had to set up a series of clamps basically to move the trunnion then tighten down the bolts, finally after so long of trying to pry and bang and everything else that was my solution and it seemed to work. Now I'm back to having to pull the panel and try to get everything aligned again. This time I'm buying peachtree's contractor saw alignment kit hopefully that will make it less of a headache and possible keep it aligned better. I'll try and remember to post my findings. For now I have the fence aligned to the blade, and I'll avoid using the miter slots until I get the trunions adjusted. MolokMot, Not yet. The plan as of right now is to put a cast router extension to the left of the saw to replace the stamped steel wing. Normal cast extension wing's usually cost around 100$ (after shipping) from what I've found. So kind of killing two birds with one stone I'm thinking to get the MCLS XCI for an extra 150 and I'll have another router table in my shop without taking up more floor space. The one thing I need to confirm is whether or not a router mounted on the left side will clear the motor housing on the saw. It may be close. I need to find out if the cutout on the router extension is perfectly centered and then make some measurements. From looking at the pictures, I don't believe it will be a problem. My shop layout only allows for the router table to be on the left side of the table saw. For this reason I wouldn't personally buy the XM extension table, it's too wide IMO to be on the left side of the saw. If your plan is to put the router table on the right side of the table saw, I think the XM extension may be fine, plus the fence rails on that side will give more attachment points to better secure the extension.
  7. Thank you for the replies. I’m definitely interested in the Delta, it almost seems to good to be true at the price. I’m keeping my eye on it for sure. After watching the Incra video's I became quite interested. Definitely seems like it could step up my repeatability and accuracy a notch or two. The two things that hold me back are first the price, but I can get over that if something’s going to really improve my woodworking. The second thing is, I like to use jigs that simply slip on top of my fence and rides along on top of the fence. With the Incra, that wouldn’t work. I’m trying to think of alternatives on a jig that would work just as well and slide over the fence meanwhile balancing a tall board. I’m coming up short, but my creativity on jigs isn’t the best either.
  8. I'm looking to upgrade the fence on my table saw. I've looked an not come up with many options. The vega seems popular but I don't know about the rail system, I think I'd prefer a biesemeyer style system. The cheapest option looks like the delta 36-t30, which can be had for 200$ on amazon. I don't know how I feel about Incra, but they seem like a pain to adjust. Another issue is attachment, I think with my ridgid 4512, I'll have to drill and possibly tap any of the aftermarket fences, but the less precision metal work, the better for me. Does anyone have any insight to share?
  9. I have the r4512, overall for the money I think it's a pretty decent saw. I have two dislikes one, the stamped steel extensions, If I could find some cast wings that would fit it I'd probably buy them. The stamped steel is impossible to line up perfectly, and even if you could line them up perfect, a little pressure hear and there will put them out of alignment again. How important is perfect alignment of the wings? Well that's for you to decide. They haven't affected any of my work (at least not that I'm aware of) I am just a bit of a perfectionist whenever I setup my tools. The other is the fence, it is OK considering the type of saw. If you compare the fence to any other saw in the price range it will either be as good or better, but that really doesn't say a lot. Once clamped down you have to put a great amount of force to make it deflect, great! But, when you are clamping it, it is very hard to make it perfectly parallel to the blade/miter slots. The back doesnt always square up with the front. My technique for dealing with this is everytime I clamp down the fence I usually give it a "lock, unlock, lock, unlock, lock, unlock, lock" action and that helps square it up, not always perfect but usually dang close. Actually looking for an upgrade on a fence is how I stumbled upon this post. With my negatives out of the way, if I had less than 900$ to spend on a saw again, I'd buy the ridgid again without much thinking. I put a forest woodworker II sawblade on it and it has cut everything I've thrown at it. If I could afford to spend 1000-1200, there are many other options I'd explore most likely I'd choose something from steel city or grizzly.
  10. It seems different retailers are selling it differently, some come with both needles and some only come with the 2.0. A big deal when comparing prices.
  11. I was about to buy today but after looking at it more I realized it doesn't come with the 1.5mm needle that other retailers sell with it, costing an extra 40$. Still a good deal, but not an immediate buy as I first thought.
  12. The military now uses it only as a very last resort on a wound which will not stop bleeding otherwise. When it was first introduced, we were using it a lot but we have learned of the damage it causes and changed our tactics. We now train to use QuickClot only AFTER a tourniquet (which used to be the last resort). QuickClot is dangerous in the powder (sandy) form if it get's into your eyes or respiratory system. They now have a bandage with the QuickClot added to the bandage to prevent the dust from getting into your eyes or being inhaled, but it will still cause burning at the affected area. QuickClot can cause severe burning from the heat it generates when reacting with the blood (I don't know the exact science, but some sort of chemical reaction.) This will damage the tissue in the offending area making healing and recovery more of a problem. QuickClot is designed in cases like a leg that has been blown off, where nothing else will work and the person will die if the bleeding is not stopped. QuickClot should not be used for 99.99% of the accidents which happen in our shops. Anything short of cutting off your arm at your wrist or higher, you should use another method to control the bleeding. I just did a bit of searching into how it works, and apparently the absorbent material absorbs the water from the blood, causing the concentration of the "clotting factors."
  13. Even if you get it to match 100% perfect day one, the cherry will slowly darken and the stained poplar will not resulting in non-matching color. Sounds like an ongoing battle and whether you are disappointed the first day you stain or 10 years down the road, well disappointment... I think Veneering might be the answer.
  14. What are the pro's and con's for plywood/MDF use in jig making. A few things to consider would be; ease to build, price, availability, durability, would one build a more precise jig? What do you use for your jig making needs, use the poll to vote but please also add your comments.
  15. cyclingneko


    Honestly, I don't know much about the wood. My dad asked me to build, I was visiting for a few days. So I ran to the store, keeping in mind my dad asked for a red to brown color. Found a clear board of paduak big enough to not have to glue up the top, not long afterwards the table was born. I also had limited tools to use being at my parents, only an old bandsaw without a fence, a 1/4" trim router with a broken base that I had to use a clamp to firmly secure the router in the base, and a half sheet sander.