morganew

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About morganew

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  • Woodworking Interests
    hand and power
  1. I guess this is a question for Shannon Rogers as much as anyone, but when I look at the list of hand tool swaps at the Mid-West Tool Collectors Association, most of them aren't close. Even those ostensibly in my area (VA/MD/PA/DE) are in the far reaches of the states. Given the number of people who live in Northern Virginia to Richmond /DC Suburbs/ Baltimore to Annapolis corridors, it seems crazy there isn't a tool swap a few times a year. What am I missing? Where should I be looking? Thanks in advance
  2. our posts crossed in the wind. My earlier response was to wtnhighlander Good to know that the BC plans are working for you.
  3. but where are they located? close to the front? back a long way? equidistant between the split and the face?
  4. Those of you who read popular woodworking's blog may have seen Chris Schwarz's article on where he puts his holes. http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/holdfast-holes-where-should-they-be-located Unfortunately, his layout doesn't quite work with the TWW Split-top. So I am wondering: what pattern did you use? did you have a pattern at all? how do you like your hole placement? (I am leaving all various and sundry hole jokes to the imagination of the reader)
  5. Anyone just not bother with the leather at all? Do you get significantly more dents?
  6. I have the benchcrafted classic, just finished installing it. In an attempt to see how tight I could make the vice, I sheared the pin. I'll try and get a hold of benchcrafted tomorrow, but if not does anyone know the pin size off hand? (yes, I can grab my calipers, blah blah blah). Thanks in advance.
  7. I've got an odd situation with my newly installed crisscross. It closes very smoothly and cleanly, but it's stiff when opening. The threaded rod is not touching wood anywhere and I've got about 1/4 of toe-in. Spec from benchcrafted is between 1/8 and 3/8, so I'm well within the range. ANyone else had this happen?
  8. Well Don, I think the Shipping will probably be killer
  9. That was my thinking as well. I've looked at the plans and I don't see anything that would suddenly be "off", but I figured it would be worth checking here
  10. Just got done doing a cherry chop for my crisscross roubo, and I've ended up with approximately 6 remaining feet of 9" wide, 12/4 cherry. It wasn't cheap, so I'd like to come up with something that will benefit from the width. I've got some end tables to build, I'm probably doing to do a pair of morris chairs (could go White Oak or Cherry i guess) but what else is out there that benefits from that much width and thickness? I hate the idea of just re-sawing into 5/4... Morgan
  11. Making a new chop for a crisscross, and I was able to get some extra thick and wide Cherry. it's currently s4s and still 2 3/4 thick. I could plane it down, or bandsaw and then plane, but it's only an extra 1/4. Is there anything I am NOT thinking of that would make the extra 1/4 a problem? Thanks in advance; Morgan
  12. So what happens if I use stacked dominos for full size furniture instead of buying a 700? I know they aren't "appropriately sized" but I seriously doubt they will fail faster than a pocket screw or dowel would have. Is it just that they "feel" safer? or is it the longer reach and therefore better mechanical advantage?
  13. In general I am a fan of the Ron Hock blades for the #8. I will say that no matter which modern blade you get, expect that you may have to move the frog to get the kind of set you want. New blade + new Cap iron are going to be much thicker.
  14. Tim, That's kind of where I am as well. I don't mind fiddling with tools, and I have a nice cabinet saw in my real shop. But I'm thinking that something like the Bosch 4100 will probably give me more joy at not a life threatening price point.
  15. I'm building a little shop at our family cabin - I've been slowly accumulating what I'll need to do little projects, including furniture and cabinetry work. At the cabin right now is an old Craftsman/King Seeley table saw from the 1950's. It's in decent shape, and I can spend time, and probably around $150, to make it better. But the reality is the fence systems on those old saws weren't much to write home about - couple that with the fact that it only spins an 8" blade with a 1/2 arbor, and there are some limiting factors. Now it does have a great cast iron top, and the motor runs smoothly, with very little runout in the bearings right now. So here's my question - should I ditch the old King Seeley (mine looks like this one : http://ct-web2.unh.edu/lee/80-series.htm )? And if I do, what cheap contractor saw will give me a decent fence that will stay square?