AlexPeel

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About AlexPeel

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    most of it
  1. So I finally moved my bench to its final resting spot, after a half a year of it being done, after starting on it 2 years ago. I was re-admiring how awesome it is to have and I realized that some of you may be interested in seeing how the criss-cross turned out. There are a couple other criss-cross threads where we discussed the modifications that need to be made from the original plans if you are interested.
  2. AlexPeel

    Criss-cross chop

    Finished pics of my bench chop with criss cross installed.
  3. So to touch on what Byrdie said: Just want to clarify that square bench dogs are not affected by the depth of the top. You may need to make the dog a tad bit longer, but you do not need to back drill the square dog holes. The square dogs are held in place with a wooden "spring". If you are using round dog holes I would think that they dont need to be 4" unless you are trying to use them as hold fast holes as well. However I don't really know as I put square dogs on mine. Only the hold fast holes really need to be around 4" for effectiveness.
  4. Congrats on the bench! If you still have not finished it I would try Watco danish oil as discussed in the finishing thread. Worked great, and was a simple couple hour application. The bench looks a whole lot better once finished.
  5. 1. Did the square dogs and I love them. Through tenon should be fine with either type of dog holes but you would definitely need to modify the position of one of the holes. You would also need to modify the position of the leg completely on the wagon vise side of the bench. The current plans call for the wagon vise clearance to go up to the edge of the leg, I dont think that would work with a through tenon as it would need some space so the tenon was not on the edge of a hole. You could also lengthen the bench on that side by several inches to pull the vise away from the leg. I don't think that through tenons are really going to help with top stability any more then the original plans. I am sure it would look cooler, but it would be more work. I do think it's doable but as I outlined you will need to modify parts of the plans to suit regardless of the doghole style. If you go down this route I would advise you to make modifications to the sketchup plans to get everything setup the way you want and be careful with any measurements to not get them confused with the original plans while you are watching the videos and following along. 2. I installed criss-cross and you should be fine on the through tenon. What you have to worry about is the front rail to the leg tenon. I advise you to get the sketchup drawings that were done in the criss-cross thread. They explain the problem thoroughly. You will still need to put the criss-cross on while the leg is completely unattached but that should't be any more of an issue then the original plans. 3. 5" top should be fine but you will need to back drill the underside of the holdfast holes with a larger hole because the holdfasts will not work with that thick of a bench. Also I would not be overly optimistic about maximizing bench thickness. I am sure you will find at least some of that overage will get eaten up in the process of making and flattening your bench top. Don't worry about it however as the bench top can be as thick as you want it to be and not just on inch increments, a 4 and 45/64" top would work too . Just make sure you modify any distances in the plans which are based off the 4" top. You also should consider the extra inch in the overall height of the bench and change the leg length if you don't want it to be 36" high bench.
  6. Add two pieces of UHM adhesive backed strips to the bottom v-notch on the deadman for really smooth sliding. Also sand the triangular runner attached to the table with progressively higher grits until you get 300+ grit. This will make it much more slick. After doing these things then applying the finish to my table the deadman slides extremely smoothly.
  7. If you are using the Crisscross I wanted to point out that you could actually lower the vise screw hole height to give you more room above the screw. I think the only reason for the original height in the guild plans is to allow clearance for the peg board and mortise at the bottom of the vise chop. According to the Benchcrafted site you can position the screw anywhere in relation to the top of the bench and the crisscross as long as you leave a moderate distance between the screw and the crisscross mortise. Keep in mind with the crisscross you need much longer chop then what is in the original guild plans, especially if you go as low as I have. I decided to go with the following dimensions. Crisscross leg mortise 2" off the ground - Benchcrafted recommends at least one inch but they mention you might want to raise it on a tall bench so you don't bend over to much when grasping the wheel. So I settled on 2". Crisscross leg mortise 19.5" high - as per Benchcrafted crisscross plans. Crisscross vise chop mortise 1 3/4" off the ground - This leaves the bottom of the chop 1/4" off the ground and makes the chop pretty much the full bench height which I think is a really nice look. Screw hole - 2 1/8" above the mortise as per Benchcrafted crisscross plans, and what they say is the minimum height above the mortise. This leaves me 7.5" leg height above the center of the screw (not the top of the leg tenon) and 11.5" below the bench top. This original plans only give you 9 1/8" above the screw center to the top of the bench. Of course if you are going to do this make sure that you double check all your measurements and don't get anything confused between the original measurements and the new plans. I found it best to for the most part ignore the guild plans and videos (for the vise install) and just base everything for the off the benchcrafted install plans. Also importantly you want to install the crisscross BEFORE installing the screw for the vise not the way Mark starts with the screw for the original plans.
  8. Scott, Basically same boat as you. My build has been delayed until now for other reasons and it just so happens where I left off was the legs. Perfect timing for the crisscross which is in the mail. Could you make these modifications available? I know enough SketchUp that I could do it myself but seeing as how you have already done all the hard work Thanks.
  9. Doing a rough calculation by combining some measurements from the roubo plans and the new crisscross plans looks like the chop will need to be minimum 31.75 inches finished. This is how I came up with this: 4 inches for the top. 5 1/8 inches from the top of the leg to the center of the vise screw (from original ww roubo plans) 2 1/8 inches from the center of the screw to the top of the mortise for the crisscross ( from crisscross plans ) 19 1/2 inches for the mortise ( from crisscross plans ) *1 inch, at least, below the mortise to bottom of the leg ( from crisscross plans ) I am going to at some point modify the ww roubo plans in sketchup to integrate the new crisscross, unless someone else has already done this? Anyone? *On the actual chop benchcrafted has the mortise to bottom at 3/4 of an inch so really the chop would be 31 1/2 inches long. Measurement listed above is the minimum leg length.
  10. Benchcrafted have released the full install instructions for the crisscross: http://benchcrafted.blogspot.com/2012/12/crisscross-instructions-now-available.html Looks like the chop for the leg vise will need to be different then the original guild plans. Benchcrafted plans call for 19 inches of space for the mortise below the screw plus a couple extra inches. Looks like the new system is going to need a chop thats closer to the total height of the bench, or about 35".
  11. So nice... http://www.popularwo...gon-vise-at-wia Saw these in person. They were really really good looking. Massive.
  12. Looks like Benchcrafted have made modification to the acetal bushing that the leg vise uses to make the criss-cross operate smoother. They say they will have ordering information for this part right before the criss-cross ships. http://benchcrafted.blogspot.com/2012/10/glide-instructions-update.html
  13. All hearsay on my part but I think the idea is that this new system eliminates one of the common complaints about a traditional leg vise in needing to be adjusted for different board thicknesses. Here is a blog from Schwarz talking about it: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog/st-peter%E2%80%99s-cross-and-the-ultimate-leg-vise
  14. http://benchcrafted.blogspot.com/2012/09/crisscrosss-pricing.html Anyone that was interested in the new criss-cross leg vise modification from benchcrafted, they are now taking pre-orders. Pricing seems reasonable for adding it on to an existing benchcrafted leg vise. Saying it will start shipping Dec. 3rd. Fortunately for me I have been unfortunately unable to work on my bench for the last half year and wont be able to get back to it till December so this is perfect timing. I was just working on my bench legs when I stopped so it will all work out as a fresh install. Anyone else thinking of getting it?
  15. Posted this in the comments on guild website on the dog hole strip video page but thought I would repost it here incase it could help anyone out who had not gotten to this part of the project yet. Couple pieces of advice that came in handy on my build of the dog strip. First: Mark mentions being careful about not routing through the lip of the template which holds the two template pieces together. Well when I was routing I found it almost impossible to see exactly where I was and I almost cut through the thing. I realized if I simply filled in the space between the two templates halves with a small piece of scrap that I could use the router bushing to keep me from going to far. I cut a piece that fit between the two and brad nailed it in place. Worked like a charm. If you do this yourself cover only the top (outside) 1/2 inch and leave the bottom (inside) 1/4 inch of the template clamp piece exposed. This way you will route slightly into the piece and fully cut the top corners of the dog hole in your bench strip. Second: Mark has you routing the last dog hole for the movable dog block in the same way as all the others. Which leads to the issue he refers to in the video of the backing strip being on the opposite side of the block then it is in the main dog strip. I solved this easily by simply making a second template but building it upside down. I simply switched to the other template when I was routing this last hole. If you try this make sure that you change the layout to compensate for the reversed dog hole. Instead of measuring in 2 inches from the end you need to measure in 2 inches from the inside edge of the movable dog block.