wdwerker

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Everything posted by wdwerker

  1. I've looked high and low for interior framing pictures of the spire. From what I've read the spire was only about 150 years old. If I remember right a previous spire was removed in the 1700's due to rot and wind damage. The one that burned was bigger and more elaborate than its predecessor. A metal framed roof with lead or maybe titanium covering could last for maybe a 1000 years if done right. But a lot of the problems have been due to a pathetic maintenance budget. Spend a few million a year to take care of what you've got or spend billions to repair /replace seems like an easy choice.
  2. wdwerker

    Richard A

    Best wishes to Rick's recovery. Jack & meds don't always play well together. Hopefully he can keep them separated.
  3. Mine slides on edge into a gap at the end of my plywood rack . It's near the saw and easily at hand when I need it.
  4. wdwerker

    Gilders Paste

    I used something similar back in the late 70's when I did part time work at a picture frame shop. There were harder wax versions for filling nail holes and a creamy version to touch up nicks in guilded frames. We used a special polished putty knife on the hard wax and a old tee shirt on the creamy version. Touch ups needed to dry and be buffed then recoated several times to make it blend in. A thick coat took forever to dry.
  5. Many years ago I bought aluminum ZCI with replaceable inserts made of 1/4" Baltic birch. At one time it was easier and cheaper to just buy a bundle of the inserts then the supply of them dried up. The 1/4" Birch ply had to be ripped to a very exact width then a dovetail bevel routed on the edges. Once I am set up I cut an entire 5x5 sheet and make enough to last for many years. If you use thin kerf blades a ZCI can be reused for standard 1/8" kerf blades. Then you can reuse it yet again for dado cuts.
  6. I find stainless to have enough glare that tiny accurate measurements are difficult late in the day. I've had a 6" imperial and the metric version in my pocket every work day since June 2013. I often use the metric one to transfer marks without ever reading the scale. But the primary use for the metric one is setup work using my Domino. I called Woodpeckers just a few days after receiving my Imperial(inch)ruler and they promptly shipped me the metric version. They make extras of the " One time tools " but only limited numbers.
  7. Most undermount slides ,even the ones without soft close have a self close, that's what holds the drawer shut. Usually undermount slides have a pin or hook that goes into the back of the drawer. This means that the drawer length is fixed by the slide you choose. I've gotten 26" Blum concealed slides. There are also heavy duty versions for big drawers. Some ball bearing side mount slides can also be used as undermount. 100 lb rating side mount is maybe 40 lb or less when undermount did.
  8. I got the 18” one the first time it was offered. I’ve used it to guide my tracksaw on crosscuts , layout work & checking large cases . It’s useful but overpriced. I bought it as a reward for completing a profitable job.
  9. I found some O rings that fit between my ETS 150 sander and the Fein vac hose that I already had. Worked great that way for many years. Eventually I knuckled under and got a CT26. I had a bunch of onsite work to do and the HEPA filter plus the much lower noise made the choice easier. I reuse the bags a few times just to keep costs down.
  10. I bet lots of companies are flexible, if you are pleasant about the situation instead of being demanding the results could be much better. Glad it worked out well for you.
  11. Underneath an office waiting room coffee table might not be the best place for a weapon. You could put a webcam under there but that also doesn't seem to be a wise idea either.
  12. The lumber mill I've been buying from for 45 years is usually very accommodating on problems like this. Especially if you buy FAS grade hardwoods. Common grades your supposed to expect even hidden flaws. However I'm not sure they are going to be as liberal with occasional buyers of small orders. Of course I usually buy 20-30 % extra to allow for waste, mistakes and flaws. I only fuss about issues like yours when it shows up in several boards or makes a single large plank unusable.
  13. Leaving a gap at the wall underneath a backsplash like tile or whatever and then use a really flexible caulk like Lexcel . It comes in clear and white plus its paintable. It cleans up with mineral spirits. Might need a couple days to cure but unlike silicone it stays put & remains flexible for decades. This approach will let you use a center fixed breadboard and hide half of the movement underneath the backsplash. When the backsplash was just a thin layer of plastic laminate I have cut the face of the drywall and dug a 1/4 deep recess in the gypsum to conceal the movement.
  14. wdwerker

    Hijack!

    Nice to know there are other sources for Dominos. If you buy the big box from Festool they are only 17 cents each but you've got to drop $99 for 600 of them.
  15. Cherry pitch pockets, those dark black areas, are notorious for causing problems. If you dry it out for a week or so and saturated the area w epoxy then sand & reshape before re oiling it should be possible to save the spoon.
  16. Well Ireland is a bit far for you to bring your top by my shop in Atlanta to run it through the drum sander ....... but you would be welcome to do so.
  17. If the boards in the base went sideways movement shouldn't be a big problem. Wood moves in width and slightly in thickness but very little in length. If the top was made of 8 strips with angled butt joints movement wouldn't hurt much there either. Dowels, dominos, biscuits or even lap joints could work. Getting all 8 joints to fit as perfect miters can be tricky, angles and lengths must all match quite accurately. Otherwise veneer might be a better choice.
  18. Wire brushes and flap sanding wheels work great on live edges.
  19. There is a kit of a drill jig and some bits that make installing that kind of slide much easier and more accurate. It is possible to make your own jig but time and accuracy are likely to suffer. Building a test drawer from scrap and doing a trial run of the install is a good idea. The drawer sizing has to work with the specific slide. Don't jump the gun and build the drawers first. Strongly consider clearance issues if a door doesn't completely swing fully open..
  20. Shop & insure plus take photos of each tool as packed just for documentation .
  21. I have achieved the backless look in some of my bookcases by adding a loose 1/8" or 1/4" MDF sheet painted with the matching wall paint. Take out the shelves and the back fits with a 1/16 gap , this approach lets you switch from a matching wood back that's a permanent part of the bookcase to the backless look.
  22. Beautiful results! Damn lucky nephew !
  23. And here I was about to post that you hadn't been online since August ! Welcome back !
  24. An old girlfriend had a Prius and it just captures energy that would be wasted braking plus kills the engine at traffic lights. Newer ones might plug in but most of them just use technology to avoid wasting any energy. When you first hit the brakes it switches the motor into a generator and slows the car like downshifting would. When you press harder on the brakes the friction /discs/drums/whatever come into play.