rodger.

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Posts posted by rodger.

  1. I think it's looks great in your photo. Wood is a natural medium, and should maintain some of it's natural appeal!

    I made a walnut countertop about 10 years ago, and I finished it with 4 coats of salad bowl finish.

    After it cures, you could always wax it to get a wonderful "touch factor".

  2. @Wimayo

    I've had success with Benjamin Moore Advance on heavy wear kitchen furniture (I made a sideboard a year ago and painted it with BMA). It holds up really well to abuse - I drag stainless steel mixing bowls off a painted shelf almost daily. The only issue is that it is like mud in viscosity, and needs a 100 stage HVLP to spray it, even after thinning.

    I contacted BM about thinning, and they said "Absolutely no more than 10% thinning". I called Fuji, and they said they routinely thin it 20% without issue. 

    I am also interested in trying Sherwin Williams Aqua +, but it is hard to get in my region of you don't run a commercial business and buy it in bulk. That is what I started looking for alternatives.

    The "tinted" polyurethane looks promising, but I don't want to spend a lifetime experimenting with it. I was hoping someone had a known recipe that was vetted.

    Another option is to paint with flat paint, and then just spray a topcoat over that. But, if this is the route, the layers are gonna start getting thick (primer, paint 1 paint 2, topcoat 1, topcoat 2).

  3. Here in Canada we have started the Vaccine rollout, but have hit a few delivery snags. We are scheduled to receive 500K less vaccines than were originally scheduled. Most long term care homes in my regions are completed, but the "general" public is quite a ways off from getting the jab. Our Federal Government ordered enough vaccines to inoculate the entire country 5 times over. Not sure of the delay logistics, but it's a hot topic here.

  4. I have been interested to try General Finishes "white poly", but there is no-one anywhere within 12 hours of me that sells it. I thought, perhaps, that I could make my own paint/polyurethane mix. I have done some googling, and one person refers to this as "fortified paint".

    I have successfully mixed water-based poly with the dye stains that general finishes produces - pretty easy. But has anyone mixed" latex" paint with water based polyurethane before? I specifically use General Finishes High Performance Poly. I spray via HVLP.

    Anyone try this before? I attempted to email General Finishes, but they have no customer support email address, just some Facebook page link ( I very much dislike Facebook).

     

  5. Ok, I guess my photos were not up to snuff! I'll get him to take some better ones and forward them to me. I took those with my phone camera, so not so good.

    The finish is peeling, and I am assuming removing it will be the only route to a decent restoration. He is looking for simple, so I am thinking remove the old finish and maybe a few coats of OSMO top oil. The old finish may contain lead, due to its age, so that is a concern.

    I've got Flexner's book and have read it many times. I'm going to take another look through it to see if I can get some more info.

  6. A friend of mine runs a local store and bought this display case for his front counter. The seller said it was from about 1900 or so, but I doubt it is that old. Regardless, my friend wants to refinish it, and I would like to offer him some advice. Also, any chance of IDing the wood species? Mahogany, perhaps? Its a walnut colour, but it does not have the characteristic grain pattern of walnut.

    Thanks fellas!

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  7. Our province is starting to go backwards. We recently entered "phase 1" of reopening, but some people just don't comply with the rules. Our cases have spiked last week, after weeks of steady decline. There is discussion of "re- closing" things that have been permitted to open (with strict rules). 

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  8. 17 hours ago, Cliff said:

    I hadn't seen this thread before, but it just so happens I finished my desk in Rubio. I honestly think it does not compare to ARS. It's VERY flat. Like almost no shine at all. I'm torn on the feel of it. I like the way it feels but I also love that glass smooth ARS feel. I had two primary reasons for using it, I knew I'd often bang the desk up and wanted to repair it easily - and one coat with 7 days cure time. 

    I really think there is a learning curve to applying the finish to get maximum value. I used far too much on the top of my desk. 

    I'm really interested in Osmo, but I won't try it until I've used up the Rubio. And honestly, I got a gallon of ARS I need to use too before I buy another. 

    I have tried countless finishes over the years, and I have weened it t down to my "go to" finishes that yield the results I want (HVLP High performance Poly for water based and hand applied Wipe-on poly for oil based). I always wax my projects as well, with a beeswax blend I quite like.

    I would like to add two new finishes to round out my projects. I am going to try spraying "Kem Aqua" from Sherwin Williams for the painted look I am starting to use more often, and the OSMO for quick and easy small projects. I shall see if either of them make it into my normal repertoire.

  9. I would say the right time is whenever you can afford it. I bought one a few years back, and the cost was quite high. Now, after owning it for a few years, the cost doesn't matter so much. I received the "free accessory" offer and went with the "standard" mobile base. It works just fine, but is not nearly as nice as the ICS base. For the one time I move it per year, the standard base is just fine.

     

  10. 23 minutes ago, drzaius said:

    The cheap painter's tape is around $5/roll of 60 yards. The carpet tape is $5/roll of 13 M. So the carpet tape is going to be about twice the price by the time the CA glue is figured in. Not really a concern unless a project is going to use a ton of tape.

    The carpet tape I use is 3M indoor.

    After mentioning the high cost of a particular router bit during one of my first woodworking classes, the instructor told me "If you are in this craft to save money, I think you are in the wrong hobby" :)

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  11. On 4/24/2020 at 10:00 AM, Mick S said:

    With Osmo you just clean the surface and reapply a new coat or coats. Blends right in. Unlike lacquer, poly doesn't melt into the underlying layer and blend in, but just sits on top, so getting it to match the surrounding area is trickier. Any irregularity has to be removed before reapplying

    I have been itching to try Osmo, but they have a very large product line, and I don't really know where to start. It's pretty expensive if you buy the wrong product. Is 3043 suitable for furniture?

  12. Masks are becoming the norm here in Ontario, and we have been told that we should not go out without one now.

     

    Everything is still closed, except for essential services. Even that list has shrunk significantly since this began.

    I can't get any dates for pick up of groceries, and it has been recommended that people who are healthy should leave those spots for others. I shop once per week to get essentials, but otherwise I'm not going anywhere. I have been working from home for two weeks now.