rodger.

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Everything posted by rodger.

  1. Lots of people prefinish parts before assembly. The trick is to avoid getting finish on the areas to be joined. I use masking tape (usually use the green variety, but blue will work too) if I want to finish a piece before assembly. For example, if I want to prefinish an apron before assembling a table, I will mask off the tenon to avoid getting finish on it.
  2. bonjour! Mon francais est ne pas bein. Je pe parler un peu.
  3. Poplar would be my first choice - it is relatively inexpensive and easy to paint. Can you use MDF? It's messy to machine, but nothing takes better than MDF.
  4. The time on the glue bottle is under ideal conditions. I always let the glue set overnight (so a minimum of about 12 hours, but 24 hours is better). This is especially the case when you want to plane or machine the glued up workpiece.
  5. +1 on the plywood. Plywood is far stronger, and not really much more expensive. Another method for half laps is a chop saw (with a depth stop) and a chisel. Cut a number of kerfs about 1/8" apart on your chop saw, then just clean it up with a chisel. The remaing thin strips of lumber in the joint will peel right off. I have used this method before a few times - its great for rough carpentry projects like decks and basement shelving.
  6. I bought a ridgid RO sander, and it has been going strong for 7 years. Ridgid will also send you new parts at no charge under their Lifetime Service Agreement.
  7. rodger.

    Shop setup

    +1 Dust collection is essential in a basement shop. If you have the money, an air scrubber would also be a good idea.
  8. rodger.

    Buying wood

    When I buy 4/4 rough sawn boards, they are usually 1/16 over an inch. I bring a tape with me, and always make sure i get lumber over 1 inch thick, unless its really flat. I really take my time when I choose my lumber, and often spend a lot of time picking through the stacks. I recently bought 20 bf of walnut, and it took about 40 mins to get the pieces I wanted. dwacker has given some good advice. Its far better to joint, plane, and square smaller sections than a whole 8 foot board. There is a great gadget available as a go/no go for buying lumber. Check it out: http://www.leevalley
  9. I've done both the solid and laminate approach. If it is feasable, I always choose the solid. Sometimes this is not possible though. I had to make a large dining room table a few years ago, and the legs were 16/4 finished. I had to laminate two sections. If you choose to laminate, make sure you pay very close attetnion to grain matching and direction.
  10. I have the 6" Delta X jointer and I am very pleased with it. I would not hesitate to buy a delta again.
  11. I may sound like a broken record here, but you will probably be dissapointed with the performance of a low grade saw. You will probably outgrow it quickly, and it will to be replaced.
  12. I use a waterstone to hone to about 8000. This gives a good shine, but not a mirror. Some guys go nuts with sharpening, and go to 10 000, and then buff the blade. This will give a mirror, but its not really necessary. If you use a microbevel, and its 8000, you have more than an excellent edge for woodoworking. It also saves steel on your plane irons and chisels, and it's much faster to hone. As you mentioned, make sure the back is lapped flat. Hope this helps. PS - it can be frustrating (and dangerous) to use a bench that moves when you try to plane. Make sure that you bolt your
  13. When raising panels, do you folks back cut the centre panel to let it sit flush with the rails and stiles, or do you let it sit proud? I have read in furniture books that the centre panels that are flush with the frame are more toward the mass production method, as the entire workpiece can be sent through a drum sander. Having the raised centre panel sit slightly proud of the frame indicates a more hand crafted furniture approach. What do you think?
  14. I use a collection of waterstones and a veritas MKII jig for plane irons and chisels. It works great, and can easily create a microbevel - a must in my opinion. I am a fan of really sharp though, i usually go to about 8000x. For damaged chisels, it is usually worth your while to find a grinder. You can get a cheap one from HD, or perhaps you can borrow from a buddy. I have removed some very small nicks with the jig and a 200 grit stone, but it took a while. There was a good article in FWW magazine not too long ago - I'll look though my magazines and let you know what issue. It speci
  15. Does it have to be on the ceiling? How about a hidden wall mount?
  16. Here is an alternate idea - sell the felled tree! Walnut can fetch very high prices! Then take the cash and buy some kiln dried lumber, or a new TV, or whatever you like. Personally, I would have it milled and store it for a few years to build furniture from in the future. But if you are in a hurry and don't want to wait for it to dry, selling is an option. Storage may also be an issue.
  17. rodger.

    Jointers?

    Take a pass on all benchtop jointers. If you are serious about building furniture, you need something with more power and capacity. I bought a Delta 37-275X, and am quite happy with it. My only complaint is that I wish I would have saved a bit longer and bought the 8" model. You will "outgrow" a benchtop jointer very quickly. Save your 250 dollars to put toward a better machine. You could also look around for a used one on kijiji or craigslist, or maybe even find one at an auction.
  18. Well I'm new here, and I was surprised there were so few tool reviews. I thought I would add a review to help get the numbers up! I am currently building a kitchen Island, and I need to build some raised panel doors to match the existing kitchen. Typically, I make doors and end panels with 1/4 inch plywood panels, but I want to use a raised panel on this project to match the rest of the kitchen. Anyways, since I typically don't make raised panels, I needed to buy a bit. I bought a Freud Quadra-Cut 3.5" Ogee raised panel bit (model 99-520). It is a newer addition to the Freud Line up, an
  19. Okay, got the avatar working! Thanks!
  20. New to this forum, but a long time contributer to another forum. Thought I would give this forum a try. My interests are basically furniture making - mainly tables, cabinets, frames, etc. I like to discuss and review new tools, discuss joinery techniques, shop layouts, etc. I use a combination of power tools and hand tools, but am really starting to enjoy hand tool woodworking more. I am a bit frustrated that I cannot attach an avatar photo. I have read the forum help section, but no matter how much I resize the picture I want, it tells me the photo "failed". Well, off to read a f