williaty

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About williaty

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Making household items that are custom fit to our lives

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  1. PEG limits your future options for finishing, does it not? In reality, it won't actually sit there for 3 years. I should have a vacuum kiln up and running by the end of the summer that should dry fresh-cut wood down into the single digits of MC within a few days. Once I prove the kiln is working, I'll toss this chunk in there and have it ready to work with by the fall.
  2. Borax is a cleaning agent. It's also required for welding iron together with a hammer at the forge. So, I cleaned the mold off with a bleach solution and then inspected the block with a microscope to try to determine which face was the end grain. The conclusion was that all the faces were the end grain In the end, I just sealed all 6 faced with wax and I'll check back in 3 years.
  3. It's the best combination of burl figure and spalting I've ever seen in a block this large. I typically only see stuff this good in pen-blank size at which point it's close to $100 for this volume. At $5, I wasn't going to hesitate. We get a tremendous amount of spalted wood from our yard but none of it comes close to being this pretty.
  4. Well the growing mold part I'm sure is due to being wrapped in plastic so it wouldn't start to dry while it was being shipped from Oregon to Ohio. I've left it in a plastic bag until I get some input on how to start drying it. My experience with store-bought 2x4s is that they come from Lowe's wet to the touch and with active growing mold but if you leave them in the garage at 45% humidity it kills off the mold within a week. I've never measured the MC of a 2x4 new and then after a month in the garage. That might be interesting. I should do that.
  5. I just bought a chunk about the size of a normal red brick of spalted maple off ebay. It's freshly cut and wet to the touch. It's starting to grow a little mold. I know I need to dry it out somewhat quickly to get the mold stopped and to prevent the spalting fungus from softening the wood further. The wood is so spalted and figured I can't identify a face grain and end grain side to figure out which is the end grain to coat it with wax. Should I coat the whole thing in wax? Just let it air dry as-is? Try to microwave dry it? What do you think?
  6. Why not just start with the interesting woods you want to work with, stabilize them, and turn the result? I agree that the interesting part of all this is the variety of wood but it seems like the correct answer is to make the wood impervious to water, not to try to resist failure if the wood has already gotten wet.
  7. If you wanted to attach your Morse Taper drill chuck to the headstock securely, you'd need to use a Morse Taper to Jacobs Taper arbor (the bit that sticks out the back of your drill chuck isn't actually a solid piece of metal with the body of the chuck) with a female thread in the Morse side of it so that you could use a drawbar to set it firmly into your headstock. As mentioned above, it would be a much better idea to buy a Morse Taper collet sized correctly to your mandrel. You'll still have to use a drawbar to firmly seat the collet into the headstock, but it will be MUCH more secure, less likely to have vibration problems, and hold the work closer to the headstock than using the drill chuck. Be aware that a collet is made to hold one and only one diameter of object. Their range of accommodation is only a few thousandths of an inch on either side of their nominal female diameter. That's why drill chucks became popular: they allow you to hold a huge range of diameters of things in comparison to a collet. Even a small drill chuck can handle a diameter range that would take a set of 10-15 collets to cover. On the other hand, the collet is a rock-solid mount and has impeccable centering and lack of runout while the drill chuck is loosey-goosey and vague.
  8. I have an Apollo VR turbine that has adjustable pressure. I was hoping you might know what your machine defaults to even if it's not adjustable.
  9. So you guys are using the 1.0mm needle to spray the High Performance? What pressure?
  10. I'm having trouble getting bandsaw blades that are welded properly. Well, at least I think I'm having trouble and that's why I'm coming to you guys. I've ordered blades made from Lenox blade stock from Spectrum Supply (twice) and then from a local supply place. Both sets of blades had the same defect. The weld is ground well so there's no change in thickness, but the ends of the band aren't parallel. From both suppliers, the ends of the band were crooked relative to each other such that the teeth in the region of the weld are shoved forwards. You can observe this easily watching the blade on the saw and you can also visually confirm it by holding a straight edge up to the teeth and spine of the blade over the weld and you get a convex edge on the teeth side and a hollow on the spine side. The first batch of blades from Spectrum were so badly off it's clearly just unacceptable. The second set were better, but still no good. The current set made up by my local supply house is the best yet, but still out enough to make me wonder. On the current set, the teeth in around the weld are about 1/16" forwards of the rest of the band. To me, this implies those teeth are going to take a heavier cut, which is not going to be good for either tracking or for consistency of surface finish. Would you guys reject blades that are 1/16" out like that, or am I being overly critical at this point?
  11. You think that's bad, we have several B-52s with their 3rd generation of the same family flying the same airframe
  12. Good joinery is a matter of a thousandth of an inch. I can certainly see wanting to lay it out to 1/64th during design. I routinely draw things down to the half mill, which is about the same. That's the limitation of my pencil line though.
  13. That's just not true. It's like saying that the smallest functional unit of English unit is inches. Half-millimeter (about 1/50th of an inch) graduated rulers are easily available for no more money than 1mm graduated rulers. Tenth-millimeter (about 1/250th of an inch) are also available at a dramatically increased price and aren't very useful without magnification.
  14. williaty

    Sonos

    There's two ways to look at it. One is that your car is too noisy to hear the difference between "better" and "best". The other way to look at it is that the base/free level of most streaming services doesn't even rise to the level of "ok", it's flat out "bad". So I wouldn't pay extra for CD-quality (16/44 lossless) music in my car. However, I'd pay a tiny bit extra for better-than-terrible music in my car.
  15. williaty

    Sonos

    OK, digital music can be delivered in several different qualities. They quality they send you determines both how good the music sounds and the size of the package they have to use to send it to you. Generally speaking, the worse the quality, the smaller the package the streaming service has to send to you. Smaller packages are cheaper to send to you and the streaming services love to save money by sending as small of packages as you're willing to tolerate. All of the popular streaming services default to sending you really low quality, really small music packages unless you sign up (read: pay more) for better quality packages to be delivered. Generally, most people listening on most in-home stereo systems can hear the difference between the TINY music package streaming services like to use and CD-sized packages. However, you can take the "bigger is better" idea too far. Some places (like Neil Young's new Pono service) offer you packages that are BIGGER than CD-sized. The problem with that is you physically can't hear it. CD was designed (from a physics standpoint) to properly package everything humans are capable of hearing. Now, it took a while to learn how to pack the box properly (which is why early CDs often sound unpleasant) but what humans can hear exactly fits the CD-sized box. These new offerings are basically trying to sell you a bigger box than you can hear. Inside of it, there's still the CD-sized package of what you can actually hear, but now it's surrounded by a bunch of packing peanuts. Packing peanuts that cost a lot of extra money to buy and to get rid of once they arrive, but you can't hear them at all. In other words, most of us can tell the difference between Home Depot plywood (tiny package, low quality, what the music services prefer to send) and cabinet-grade plywood (CD-quality). Often, it's worth using the cabinet-grade to do something nice. However, it someone comes to you and claims now there's something better than zero-void, AA-grade face venner, high ply count plywood (aka CD-quality), be real darn skeptical that this new product matters in the real world. The way to identify the CD-sized/fits human hearing quality music is to look at how they describe it. You're looking for 16bit, 44.1kHz lossless audio. Often, you'll see this written as 16/44 and the lossless will usually be ALAC or FLAC. So if someone offers to sell you 16/44 FLAC, take them up on it. However, don't be tricked into paying extra for 24/192 FLAC or something similar. Bigger numbers (beyond 16/44) are not better. They're just more. More money, most hard disk space, more expensive to play back. Not more better.