STL Woodguy

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About STL Woodguy

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St. Louis
  • Woodworking Interests
    Hand tools, power tools, finishing
  1. It sort of reminds me of Disney movie marketing when they say on the commercials they're limited run only and eventually gone forever (only to be offered again somewhere down the line). I saw emails for this and "maybe" I could see it for some sort of niche production line of sorts where time is absolutely money, but still, that price is nearly half of the Domino and honestly it seems like a Domiplate would get you most of the way there anyway.
  2. I've incorporated mine a lot more than I thought I would, and I use it in several ways. Bent lamination and small strips / pieces is a no-brainer. I remember the pains and mess associated with a router sled when I had to get a flat side on a big piece that I didn't want broken down, so it was all too easy to use the drum sander to run it through both ways and get a flat side. When I work with figured woods, tearout is always a concern so I hit the jointer first (which has a Shelix) and then I run it through the planer anyway to get it "close" to the final dimension, leaving enough to account for the tearout. Then I'll run it through the drum sander however times needed to in order to completely remove the tearout and dial it in to final thickness.
  3. Yes, a top concern while designing the case. The side vents the video card and the case, and there's a gap around the top of the lid that can take in and out air. (Somewhat adapted the idea from an earlier Mac Mini model.) Swapped in an SSD to save on space, take down noise, improve responsiveness and remove more heat. The inside is lined with aluminum. Have tested and monitored the temperature under various scenarios - idle, under heavy load, outside entertainment center, inside, etc) and nearly everything was well within range. The CPU was the only thing running a little hotter than I'd like, but I still had the plain stock fan / heatsink that came with the processor so there was improvement needed there anyway. I've swapped it with a liquid cooler which made a major difference and the unit runs like a dream, very quiet.
  4. I ended up splitting the difference between doing the spot and doing the whole thing and wiping a very fine coat on the front only, figuring if it didn't work I could always sand back down and do the whole thing. As it turns out, it ended up being the perfect crime and very pleased with it.
  5. Thanks: think I can just do the one side or do I have to do everything on the main body? (I know I can leave the lid/bottom base/etc alone since they're separate components.)
  6. I've been working on a custom PC / gaming console wood case all month and at the finishing process. Rather than spraying, I have been finishing using a wiping varnish to keep the process controlled and not have any overspray or finish enter the inside of the case (lined with aluminum). Anyway, before bed last night I finally arrived at the final topcoat. Made a mixture of Arm-R-Seal and Naptha and carefully wiped on a thin topcoat, taking another wiping pass in case of runs or drips as been my process. Woke up and darted down to the shop like a kid on Christmas and looked over everything carefully. Pleased as punch over the glass smooth surface all over, I dry assembled the unit and took one last look over it. And then I reached the point in the picture and threw out the explicits. The raking light is kind of blowing it out but you can kind of see it: at the right angle you can see a small line of drips going up. (That part of the case was turned upside down while drying.) Because that part was low to the table, I could not easily spot the issue early with the light and while I made passes with the pad, I must have missed some parts. I can go to work with sandpaper/razor to smooth that back out and apply another even coat of finish to the entire piece, but I'd like to not risk compromising the rest of the sides which is perfect. The question is: could I get away with smoothing down that spot and lightly passing over that area with a little bit of finish in a 'touch-up' type manner, or will that look too glaring and I need to coat everything again to ensure an even finish?
  7. If that was a foam corner and in a pallet at that, I'm willing to bet the bed is just fine and a 35%+ discount is hard to pass up. Check it for good measure and as said already, shouldn't be too bad to work that dent back out. I put my jointer bed through a wall and it was okay.
  8. If I was in that scenario, then I would check the tables with a trusty straight edge and maybe loosely calibrate (I say loosely because you might not want to spend a lot of time calibrating something you might be returning). Make sure the wings move smoothly up and down. Check for 90 degrees on the back fence to the tables. Run a board (mind your technique) and see if it's within your tolerances (keeping in mind you'll probably be dialing in the calibration better later). And keep the base in mind too...if it's vibrating or wobbling due to the damage, that's not good. If the dents can be worked out and the jointer stays flat, we're in business. You say the jointer bed box was damaged and that doesn't sit well with me, but it's quite possible the bed is fine. Another thing to consider too is that Jet has 10% sales all the time, so you have to gauge a 20% dented discount versus a 10% pristine discount. Ultimately it's your scenario to decide what you need and when.
  9. Tough call. One way to think about it is like the Grizzly sales or those furniture warehouses: they might have a cosmetic knick, but the prices are stellar and doesn't hurt operation. While I wouldn't be a happy camper, if they're offering a generous discount and you can absolutely confirm the top part of the jointer is perfect and mills fine and the base remains stable, then I 'might' accept it. Jointers aren't complicated machines, but you wanna make sure those tables are flat and adjustable. But who knows what happened to cause that particular damage, so that's a good reason to return it too.
  10. I'd say use a chamfer bit for the edges of the laminated top. Flush trim bit for flushing anything. Can't remember off the top of my head what Norm did on the fence, but if it's just T-track, securing t track isn't complicated, a single dado should suffice.
  11. Actually sorry, I keep stuff downloaded over the years on my HTPC and it was a live WW guild session from November 2010, not sure if it's still accessible or not.
  12. Someone needs to confirm but I was under the impression that the top of the ring insert part on Incra was aluminum. Would be safer in case the spinning bit accidentally contacted it somehow. At any rate, typically inserts require some sort of tool to remove them. Not sure if still up, but I'm pretty sure Marc did some sort of live segment on different router lift types if interested. Off the top of my head, the one company to watch out for as far as odd router table / plate sizes is Rockler stuff.
  13. IIRC, the Incra version is contracted out to Jessem for their design with Incra making modifications like the magnetic insert plate. I actually don't have a router lift yet, but I've had the Incra version on my wishlist for some time. I'll get around to it...eventually.
  14. I think benchtop bandsaws like that have their place. If I had the room, I wouldn't mind just dedicating my bigger saw for resawing and larger tasks while I would use the benchtop with a finer scroll blade for small to medium work.
  15. Very decent machine, but like Kiki said, anything that is a successor by the original company is absolutely worth a look and had I known Performax was back in the game at the time I was shopping for a drum sander, I might have looked at that instead and weighed putting a little more money into it. That said, I am still pleased with my purchase and if you do get the Jet instead, yes, do it on a sale. Either way, drum sander is something that might get stamped as a luxury purchase, but oh what a luxury it is, I get so much use out of mine, so kind to figured woods and it's one of my favorite tools in the shop. And if you don't have already, dust collection an absolute must.