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About lexugax

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    Apprentice Poster

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  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture, small projects.
  1. What brand were you using before? Also where do you find the GF brand? I haven't seen it at any of my local stores.
  2. Wow, thank you all for the quick replies. I guess water based poly is a no no, since nobody mentioned it. Ace, I don't think the poly, and use a foam brush, so I think I am getting a nice coat. I will try again using much finer sandpaper and a lighter touch before each next coat. Thanks!
  3. Hello. So I have been trying to finish this walnut table for weeks now and I am very frustrated. I have been using minwax OIL based poly. I apply a coat with a brush, sand lightly with 220 as instructions say, then apply a second coat. Well, after the second coat dries, I CAN STILL SEE THE SCRATCH MARKS from the sanding of the first coat! How is this possible? By the third coat I would have a horrible mess that I won't be able to rub off. I have applied water based poly on cherry with very good results with a pre-coat of amber shellac. I know that water based poly gives walnut a whitish/bluish hue, but is there any way that I can use water poly and not get that look? If not, am I doing something wrong with the oil poly? I would really appreciate some help, since I'm about to take the table and make a bonfire with it.
  4. Thank you very much for your reply! It has been very helpful.
  5. Hello, I'm making a black walnut end table, and I'm about to be ready to start the assembly process, but I don't know if I should apply the finish before or after the table is put together. I am planing on using an oil finish, sanding it with danish oil to make a slurry and seal the pores. Thanks
  6. Thank for all the ideas. I think I am going to be doing some experimenting before I decide. The problem with letting it dry overnight is that here In Washington state there is not such things as warm and dry nights. If that doesn't work, maybe I'll try that Crystalac, but that stuff is pricey. Are there any other options that work as well? I really don't like staining wood, since I prefer each wood's natural colors, so I would need something that looks good and natural. Thanks! Jaime
  7. Thanks for all the comments. What I want is just a not glossy finish that still has a nice sheen. My original idea was to just use Danish oild, sealing the pores with the slurry you get when you wet sand it with the oil, and after a few applications of the oil just finish it with a coat or wax. I don't know if that sounds good or not. I don't have a lot of experience with finishes, and I'm a little afraid of brushed finishes, since I can't seem to not leave streaks. I guess I'll try different things on small scrap pieces and see what works best.
  8. Greetings, I want to finish a small table with Danish Oil, and I have been reading online how to do it. First, after the piece is nice and smooth from sanding it with 320 sand paper, I apply some Danish oil and wet sand it to seal the pores. Then I let it sit for about 10 min, and remove the excess oil. Next day (and here is where I'm having problems) I want to apply another coat or oil. The pores seem nice and sealed, but then I mess it up. Fist time I rubbed some more oil with 0000 steel wool. When I removed the excess oil, I realized I had removed the filling from the pores. Started all over. Next time, after drying overnight, I only dry sanded softly with 320 to remove any dried up slurry, and applied another coat of oil with 0000 steel wool, just barely applying any pressure at all. After letting it sit for 10 min, I removed the excess oil with a clean cloth, and noticed that some of the pores were visible again! So what am I doing wrong? I just want to keep those pores sealed and build up the finish, but every time I seem to remove the material covering the pores. Thanks for you advice.