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About HuxleyWood

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  1. First, to your question about the Narex handstitched rasps, I got a chance to play with them last month and they are OK, a step up from the average CNC rasp but still a good way from Auriou and Liogier. I prefer my Liogier to Auriou rasps but they are close except for the Sapphire range which in terms of durability is simply unmatched. Estimating life is like estimating table saw blade life for someone else. The standard Liogier and the Auriou rasps would probably last a serious chairmaker most of a year. The Sapphire hardened ones probably several times as long. However it isn't rea
  2. Be aware Spectrum Supply and Iturra Designs sell the same Atlanta Sharptech black stock as the Kerf Master and Bladerunner for much less money. I said I would ask about the tensioning suggestings the OP got from Laguna at IWF, however, Laguna didn't have a single bandsaw there (almost everything was CNC machines except for 3 other items). None of the guys knew much about the blades (all CNC all day) and I didn't see Torben any of the times I walked by, so no new info.
  3. First, off the shelf bearings are actually a poor choice for bandsaw guides and you won't see them on high-end saws. Somewhere consumers got the idea they were "better" than block guides used on cheaper saws and now manufacturers charge more for these types of guides. Second, high quality bearings can be counterproductive when used for replacements on bandsaw guides. While the shielding may be better than cheaper bearings the higher tolerances (ABEC standard) will ensure they pack up and quit functioning at a similar rate as the cheap bearings. My suggestion is check Space Age Ce
  4. First, thanks for the offer of a piece of the blade but I have no access to anything that will test surface hardness on something that narrow. Not sure if I have ever seen a smaller saw spring with a 800lb spring rate, but they could exist. I am also not sure who makes Highlands carbide blades but it looks like a Sterling made by Diamond saw, they have that matte finish. In any event, you should not have to deal with a blade missing teeth since A you paid for all the teeth and B it may signal more issues. I have occasionally lost teeth on carbide blades, I just crush them off so
  5. First I am glad they are taking care of you, they should considering they market the blade with their 14" saws. I searched the forums to see if I had been missing more reports of fatigue cracks in the RK and saw about the number I remember. Either they are being underreported or it doesn't seem to be a widespread pattern problem. I do think it is fairly dubious to recommend them for 14" wheels but they do run a fairly ductile high silicon steel backer. I would love to know the surface roughness in those gullets and I have a sneaking suspicion that some stock is getting through with too hig
  6. OK, this is nothing you did, those are fatigue cracks and propagating exactly where I would expect. I am pretty sure I know exactly what caused it. There is a root cause and an accelerating cause. Prestrain forces (static bandsaw tension) has basically little to no impact. The accelerating factor is the high bending load over a small wheel, as the blade passes over the arc of the wheel the bending load is added to the static load plus the blade is subjected to the sudden increase and decrease of the bending load as the blade runs. Preload is generally only about a 1/3 of this
  7. Carter used to sell a load cell based tension gauge ETG that fit the Delta 14" cast saw and its clones that did not have a quick release. It read in spring pressure and required some calculations for each blade, they even had a version that would cut power to the saw if the spring pressure suddenly dropped (blade broke or jumped off the tires). They don't make it anymore. Someone posted on Indestructables about building one using a Rasberry Pi and a load cell that was quite cool. With the economy of scale manufacturers could add it to a bandsaw quite reasonably. Part of the issue is band
  8. The Woodslicer is an excellent blade that comes with one large negative. The Woodslicer is a spring steel blade with impulse hardened teeth and curiously comes from the meat cutting industry. Because the teeth are relatively soft (Rc 48-50 vs Carbon at 63-64 Bimetal M42 65-66 and Carbide at Rc68) they take a very fine edge, but they just dull quickly. The blade stock is from Atlanta Sharptech and Iturra and Spectrum sale it for much less than Highland, Highland does not weld their own blades so there is another middleman and they were the first to commercialize it for wood and most as
  9. The Tri-master is a good choice when you drop down to 1/2" Lenox uses a .025" backer so the tension requirements drop off proportional to the width compared to the RK. I doubt you are building near that much heat. The vast majority of the heat will be from wood/tooth interface friction. Louis Ittura (and another guy did an article published about 20 years ago) studied the difference in heat based on different types of guides and materials, neither were able to create blade temps high enough to get close to affecting the structure of the steel. In general, the 14" steel spined s
  10. The RK has a .6mm backer, .025" is close enough for "govment" work. While a metallurgist could probably tell the difference and have a better idea of the mode of failure I doubt there is even a video on the you of tubes that would allow the average person to determine the failure mode. Usually, I have a good idea why a blade broke because if it isn't a weld break or a fatigue crack break in the gullets I usually know how I was abusing the blade (overfeeding, wrong blade for the task, incorrect tension etc). Under tension can result in a blade breaking relatively quickly (due mai
  11. He mentioned he was using the Snodgrass "tap method" for tensioning. I know tension is a contentious issue and most authors and video creators tend to make it as simple as possible since the vast majority of people do not own nor will they pay for a proper strain gauge (I also know Duginske's opinion on strain gauges). Basically, all of the simple methods oversimplify the issue and most result in very low tension especially on bi-metal and carbide blades. A bandsaw will do a reasonable job even with the blade under tensioned this is why these methods persist, along with being simple a
  12. First, I assume the blades are not breaking at the weld, if they are this is a different discussion (faulty weld). I rarely break a blade on any of my saws, when I do usually the cause is clear (the blade is dull and at the end of its life, hit something foreign in the cut, overstressing a small blade etc). While it may be counterintuitive low tension has caused more blade failures than over tension on wood saws. Most wood cutting bandsaws can't provide enough tension to snap a blade. Under tension increases the stress both side to side and front to back on the blade. Blades ar
  13. It would be a shame to lose Auriou but even if we did Liogier is still around. I have found Liogier to be superior and the Sapphire coating produces amazingly hard teeth.
  14. The 390 doesn't share much with the 6421, the 6421 has more of an ETS profile (makes sense it is brushed) and the 390 has more of an ETC EC profile since it is also brushless. If you are always sanding in the center of large panels form factor is less of an issue, you could guide the sander with the cord if you liked. When you are close to edges, sanding narrow stock (rails and stiles for example), sanding vertically (like on edges) or upside down (bottom of shelves) the size/shape of the brushless sanders allows for better control. Form factor is one of the reasons people with air sand
  15. Not sure where you came up with that but the truth is just the opposite. The vast majority of quality ROS used even in the most stringent finish industries will have holes in the pad and use mating paper or net abrasives. The major exception is some air sanders made to be used wet. The problem with lack of proper dust extraction (either via the sander itself via air injecting into one or more of the holes or proper dust extraction) is that the paper loads VERY quickly since the swarf is not being actively removed and you will get pigtails in short order. You will burn through paper 4-5 ti