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Everything posted by AndrewPritchard

  1. Interesting point. I hadn't considered that. I just saw it on a walk in my local park. No one around to ask!
  2. Can someone explain to what happened to this log?
  3. I'm really only using this as a replacement for sanding, so a finer scraper would be more what I'm looking for I guess. There seem to be a number of thicknesses commercially available. Do they matter? Do they matter given my level of skill? (ie none). Do the dimensions, height and width make a difference?
  4. I have a granite block, which is milled flat I used to use to sharpen before I got my Worksharp 3000. I have seen people using steel from old table saw blades, though I am not opposed to spending money to get a better result.
  5. Would the above set do what I need it to do?
  6. I am soon to start work on an entry seat (similar to the hall tree in the guild, but my own design). It will feature some pretty large floating panels, which will need smoothing before finishes is applied. Until now I've been using power sanders, but I've heard about the virtues of scrapers (in particular how little dust they produce), and I was wondering if this would be a good project to cut my teeth on, so to speak. I was looking at the slightly bewildering options on Lee Valley, and feel I could with some advice. I will need to scrape the large wide floating panels, the smaller upright legs and the bevels of the floating panels. I've settled on a flatter profile for the floating panels than the ogee my current router bit set produces. I was looking at this set from Lee Valley:,310&p=61448 Is this all I'm going to need? I hope that I won't need to use them to do a lot of stock removal - the hope is that the panels will already be flat and pretty smooth already. Are there any trusted resources available which discuss hook angles?
  7. The area underneath is for storage, but here in Nova Scotia around half to a third of the year we have snow on the ground. The area under the seat will have a removable drip tray. The idea is that I can remove the tray without having to take all the boots and shoes out first. Just slide it out from underneath the bottom stretcher, clean and replace.
  8. I had initially mis-interpreted what you were saying about the figure 8s etc - but you have clarified it nicely. I still think a breadboard joint would be the way to go, mostly because it's a new technique for me
  9. You can see I've added some stretchers/aprons under the front and back of the seat to support those edges. I assume I don't glue the seat to the front one? Definitely not to the back one. I could add a third in the middle, but I'm not sure I need that. The seat will be around 16" deep. I'm going to have find the flattest boards in my collection to limit fitting issues. The side rails can have a continuous dado, and the stops front and back, can be the legs
  10. It will be constrained by the legs so a breadboard like solution would probably be best. The front edge would probably be best as a fixed edge, so I can guarantee it'll be comfortable to sit on. This would certainly solve the problem. I hadn't considered doing it like a breadboard. Never done a breadboard before, so this will make for some interest skill building. Would a 1/4" thick tenon be strong enough to support the weight of a 250lb human? Should I make the tenon 1/2" thick to be sure? The plan was to make it from 3/4" stock. I could even drop the seat by 1/4" to make sure there's plenty of wood above and below the seat. Would there be any benefit to making it one long tenon? What is the advantage to dividing it into 3 tenons? (Nice piece BTW)
  11. I am building an entry seat for my apartment out of solid cherry. The basic design is attached. I have come to a difficult point however, because I've realised the seat (not shown) might end up as one solid panel, which will have some wood movement issues. As it expands, it runs the risk of blowing out the mortise and tenons at the front of the piece. How can I solve this issue? I don't want to buy a sheet of cherry plywood - that'll double the cost of the project and frankly I don't have the money for that. Do I make a frame and panel, which will allow the wood to move? Do I put a mortise into the legs, to allow the wood to move into those mortises? If so, how deep should they be? Would it better to remove the arms, and put a solid panel on, like a table top? I rather like the idea of the arms, as it makes it easier to stand up if you have something to push off against. I'm open to ideas here, so what do you think I should do? NB There are a bunch of features not on this design. I'm probably going to make the top rail curved as I think it'll look nicer. There will be a french cleat running across the middle and top rails at the back to add coat/bag hooks etc. The panels in the frames will have a large ogee cut around them to hold them in the frame. The arms will be shaped to make them rounded, but I don't know how to do that on Sketchup.
  12. I don't have a bending project planned, but I might consider one in the future. I did one recently and I think it came out well Has anyone found thicker air dried to be more problematic. This guy is selling 10/4 and 4/4 (not sure why 10/4 - but that's his specs), and I'm just a bit concerned that the centre of the 10/4 isn't going to be dry enough to turn into 2"x2" table legs (for example). To set my mind at ease, should I buy the kiln dried 10/4 and the rest of it air dried? I realise some wood just moves, and there's nothing you can do about that. It's the nature of the material. I'm just trying to improve my chances given the rather substantial price difference. I have access to a heated workshop, so I'll probably buy the wood and leave it there for a couple of weeks. It's a community shop so I'm going to have to mark it up as belonging to me so no one else uses it "by mistake". The place I'm considering leaving it is right by one of the air filters which are left on 24/7 and I can arrange it so there's a constant air flow over the boards. I'd sticker it so the stickers run along the length of the boards so the air can flow all the way down. I'm sure that would help with the acclimation process, but can you foresee any other problems with doing that?
  13. I have the opportunity to buy some pretty cheap wood - oak, maple etc. from a backyard sawyer. He air dries some of his lumber and kiln (I'm guessing solar kiln) dries the rest. The air dried is considerably cheaper ($1.25 CAD bft) than the kiln dried ($2 CAD bft). All things being equal (ie they are both below 10% moisture): which is better? I had heard that air dried is better because the drying process puts less stress on the internal structures of the wood and so is more stable, but obviously commercial organisations don't want to wait that long to be able to sell their product so they kiln dry instead. Is this true? Should I just stump up the cash and buy the kiln dried, or is the air dried actually preferable? I've only ever bought from larger commercial organisations, where I've known more what I'm getting. I've seen some red oak that a friend of mine bought and it looks ok, although he did comment that it wasn't quite dried so it had moved on him during the construction of his project. (His piece is coming out beautifully). But that movement could have happened regardless of how dry it was - right?
  14. I've already got the other two panel raising bits to make the rails and styles, so I only need the bevel cutting bit to make the doors. Looks like I'm in for a new router bit then
  15. I have a raised panel bit, but I don't like the profile for this particular situation. It doesn't need to have the fillet, though I think it is common. The one I have creates an ogee, but I rather like the simpler shape above. I'm in Nova Scotia, which is a very low population density area. I might look at a different router bit. My local Lee Valley has a bit that would form a bevel like the one above for about $80 plus tax (CAD of course)
  16. I made one for my community woodshop. The floors now get cleaned properly because anyone can just sweep stuff straight into the collector.
  17. I'm in the process of designing a TV armoire type cabinet - mostly to keep my cat away from cables I trying to figure out how to do the bevel on the curved edges at the tops of the doors. I figure some kind of router bit, but that would probably mean buying a new router bit just for this one project which I'm not so keen on. I don't have mind doing it by hand if that's the easiest, but machine is obviously faster. The long straight bevels could be done on a table saw for example, but I can't see how to do the curved edges safely. Any suggestions?
  18. No, I'm not trying to cut it in half. I'm only trying to put a cut through *one* wall of the pipe, not through both walls
  19. I don't feel confident that the bandsaw will deal with cutting 12" of pipe down it's length. I am concerned it will tip the whole pipe forward.
  20. Sorry - should have said: I only need to cut ONE side of the pipe down it's length, not both sides. So a bandsaw will not do EDIT: Original question updated for clarification
  21. I need to cut some plastic pipe down it's length, but ONLY on one side. I was thinking of using the tablesaw, and was wondering if anyone had some advice. I was thinking of setting up a second fence, parallel to my regular fence to help keep it straight as it goes into the cut. What do you all think?
  22. I did a rebuild similar to John Heisz's rebuild: The biggest differences I made were: Hung on the wall so there's an empty space underneath. Not entirely necessary but it does bring the input closer to my ceiling mounted pipe run. The unit is tall enough that the motor is about 6" from the ceiling - and it's a 10ft ceiling. The whole of the bottom panel is on hinges, and it's big enough to fit a trash can inside. This makes emptying it much easier. Two latches on the side holds the door shut tight. I built a Y right on the side of the cabinet with a sliding blast gate to select either the floor sweep, or the over head pipe. I also have a remote control fitted to the power for the dust collector, so I can turn it on where ever I am in the shop. Saves me walking back and forth to the machine, which means I use it way more than I would without it! Overall it works quite well. Like John, my collector is only a 1HP so it's not powerful enough to power more than one machine at a time, but as it's a one man shop that's not an issue. I'm good, but I can only use one tool at a time When the weather is a little warmer, I'm going to build an extension onto the top, so I can direct the exhaust out though the doors of the garage. My collector is so underpowered, I think it has something like a 35 micron bag. It does almost nothing to collect the really fine dust so I always wear a respirator in the shop (especially with my asthma). This won't stop the fine dust blowing back into my shop but it will help prevent it settling on every surface in the place.
  23. So I turned my first wood goblet today. I did it with pine because I only had a limited amount of time and it's what I had to hand. It turned out (pun intended) quite well. So well in fact that several people asked me to make them one. Pine is obviously not going to work. It did get me thinking about what wood could be used for goblets the owner could drink out of. I'm thinking oak and other open pored woods would not do well, and maple would probably be better. I get the impression that walnut would also be fine, but there are some who might be allergic so I think I would avoid that. What about birch? I am assuming the process for drying is similar to drying bowl blanks - turn to rough shape, then wait until the weight stabilises and then do the final turning? Would branches suffice for this, or should I steer clear of them as they are too unstable?
  24. *Takes a bow*. I like to think I'm an enabler for all kinds of dubious activities