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Everything posted by rmac

  1. I had second thought about distributing those CAD files without Darrell's permission. So I sent him a note asking for same. If he doesn't mind, I'll put the CAD files on my blog. Watch this space for an update when I hear back from him. -- Russ
  2. Hi Ryan, Pretty wild coincidence ... I haven't looked at this forum in months, but I did just now and noticed your post. I do have the CAD drawings of not only the templates, but the entire table as well. Send me an email at rrrmac@gmail.com and I'll send you the files. Unfortunately, I can't find my copy of the magazine. -- Russ
  3. Lots of times you can use wedges instead of clamps. -- Russ
  4. True. But a guy has to come up for air once in a while.
  5. You guys need to defer to a higher authority on this: http://www.nbc.com/parks-and-recreation/video/swanson-vs-food/n4552/ -- Russ
  6. The best idea is to have your friend buy you more clamps! If that doesn't work, here's another idea: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/32326 And another variation on the wedge theme: -- Russ
  7. rmac

    Russ's Junk

    Place to put images to include in forum posts.
  8. rmac


    From the album: Russ's Junk

  9. Find another one that's trashed (in different ways) and combine the two to make a working one????????? -- Russ
  10. A quick and dirty idea would be to run a couple of hose clamps or big nylon cable ties around the back part of the scroll saw and the vertical section of PVC. If that works, done. If not, then look for a Plan B. -- Russ
  11. How about if you start by using the "cutting board method" on just the veneer by itself? That way you would be dealing with just eight strips of veneer at a time rather than 64 little squares. Then you could apply the veneer all at once to a 1/2" thick substrate and live happily ever after. -- Russ
  12. I think the first problem you need to solve is how to glue the checkerboard part together so that the surface comes out perfectly level. Because if it doesn't, you're not going to be able to correct it as you would with a real cutting board because you'll sand right through the veneer. -- Russ
  13. This is a quote from the article where they talk about the veneer thickness: Sounds like they were just trying to use the material efficiently. Depending on how thick your "4/4" lumber was to start with, you might only get two slices if you were making them 1/4" thick. -- Russ
  14. For super fine adjustments to your jig, you could rig up a stop like this with one more clamp, a scrap of wood, and a drywall screw: http://thesorteddetails.blogspot.com/2011/03/poor-mans-microadjuster.html -- Russ
  15. Match dem screws. Even if nobody else notices, it will tear at your immortal soul if you don't. -- Russ
  16. The fine folks at Freud blasted out an email the other day that had a link to some tips for batching out multiple copies of a project. http://s179993888.onlinehome.us/Newsletters/newsletter_12-12/articles/9ProductionShopTricks.pdf -- Russ
  17. There's a description of a simple router jig here: -- Russ
  18. Or a planer and a sled. -- Russ
  19. Wow! Thanks for all the hints so far ... especially about the various materials available. I didn't know much other than "grout" before starting this thread. -- Russ
  20. It that was a while ago, then the current economy may have something to do with it. But if it was recent, then maybe they were doing something right that you're doing wrong. Can you get your dad or somebody else who's turning away work to tag along with you sometime and observe your sales technique and maybe give you some pointers? -- Russ
  21. I have three rows of cleats around my shop. The bottom one is roughly 32" off the floor, the middle one 64" off the floor, and the top one about 3" below the ceiling. If I had it to do over, I would make the top one just a little bit lower, and I would think seriously about eliminating the bottom row altogether. The bottom row is useful where it's exposed, but a lot of it is unused because it's hidden behind various pieces of shop furniture. Here's a link to another guy's opinion. My ceilings aren't as high as his, so I never considered a fourth row. http://web.archive.org/web/20101011050153/http://benchmark.20m.com/plans/FrenchCleat.pdf -- Russ
  22. I've been talking for nearly a year about making a new top for my dining room table. A number of "but firsts" have been resolved, and I'm ready (I think) to actually do something about it. I'd like to make the top out of wood, but with a large section in the middle inlaid with ceramic tile or granite or something so that it can be used for hot serving dishes and such without messing around with hot pads or trivets. I'd also like the surface of the tile to be flush with the surface of the wood. The problem is wood movement. If the wood expands and shrinks as shown by the big red arrow, but the tile doesn't, it seems like I need some kind of flexible connection between the tile and the wood. The only thing I've thought of so far that seems reasonable is to start with a stable substrate made of plywood or MDF and then surround the tile with some sort of wood veneer instead of using solid wood. I don't especially like that idea because I would like to have enough wood thickness available for a future sanding/refinishing if needed. Any hints? Thanks, -- Russ
  23. rmac


    From the album: Russ's Junk

  24. rmac

    Resawing Problem

    I'm going to be a touch preachy here, but oh well. In my day job I run into two kinds of people. One bunch takes great pleasure in moaning and groaning about how awful things are and listing all sorts of external factors that prevent them from getting anything done. Then there's another group that somehow, against all odds, manages to overcome the exact same set of presumed obstacles and actually do some useful work. Fortunately, you get to choose which group you want to be in. ------- Oh, wait. You were asking about resawing technique. Have you had a chance yet to try what Chet and I suggeested? How did it work out? -- Russ