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About kipnflip

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  1. I'm building a sort of dresser/drawer-unit, using wood strips left over from other projects. The question is how to attach various parts correctly, so that expansion or contraction of the wood won't wreck the thing over time - popping glue joints, splitting the wood, etc. I've done a decent amount of woodworking, but hardly consider myself an expert; and I've seen videos online about problems that can arise when, say, gluing one piece to another when the grain is 90 degrees from the first. I've done some smaller "wood strip" projects and haven't had problems - yet - but don't know if problems would arise down the road. 1. I'll need to build an internal structure that ultimately supports drawer slides of some sort. To this end, I'd *like* to attach some front-to-back pieces on the inner sides of the unit. An example front-to-back piece (not quite long enough here; just an example), held here with clamps so I could take the photo, is shown. I might attach with glue, or some screws along the length of the cross piece, or both. Total length from to back is around 22 inches. Is this sort of thing likely to be a problem, with either glue, screws or both? If so, what else might someone suggest? 2. Same basic question for attaching the top (shown in another photo). I was planning to use some dowel pins in each corner. Maybe glue too, but obviously it wouldn't offer much strength on the endgrain of the two sides. Strength of the top may not be a super big deal, I suppose; I don't expect people to be picking the unit up by its top. Mainly, I don't want anything splitting and cracking over time. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
  2. Here are three better photos of the grayish wood in question. It's hard to get the right camera exposure in my shop; the photos are perhaps a bit brighter than the real thing.
  3. Can anyone suggest the species of the gray-ish strips of wood here? One, for example, is the fifth from the close end of the piece, between the cherry and the black walnut strips. Most of the wood I have was collected here and there by my dad over the years, and most is unlabeled, so I don't know what something is unless I specifically recognize it as a species I know. This stuff is mostly gray - somewhat unusual in comparison with other woods I've seen - with perhaps a touch of green. (It's completely dry, so isn't green because it's fresh. It's probably been sitting around for 40 years.) It smells rather sweet. Not ultra-sweet; maybe a tad musty, but mostly sweet. I have a possible idea of what it might be, based on a couple of pieces my dad once built, but won't bias the discussion by mentioning what I think it might be. I may try to get a better, more close-up photo, but this is what I have for now. FYI, the other species I know are in this piece are: cherry, juniper, black walnut, mesquite, and oak.
  4. Normally, I sand between coats using either 400 or 600 grit sandpaper, or maybe using 000 synthetic steel wool (which is much better than steel steel wool, in my opinion, as it doesn't give off little metal bits). When I mentioned having sanded at 220, that was an exceptional case: I was deliberately thinking "an earlier layer must have had streaks, which I can't seem to cover up with additional layers, so I'm intentionally going to get waaaaay down into the previous layers and then try applying a new one." So, I didn't mean that it's normal for me to sand at 220 between layers. :-)
  5. Thanks for your thoughts. My impression is that the original surface was fine; maybe not perfect, but not streaked like that. I always use mineral spirits on an original wood surface to bring out any imperfections (they almost always stand out like a sore thumb with mineral spirits, in my experience). I didn't see any, and the surface also seemed fine after I applied the danish oil. It was only after application of the ARS that I noticed streaking; so, almost certainly some sort of problem with the ARS application. Then I put on a couple more coats, hoping that doing so would conceal the streaks; but, apparently, that scheme doesn't work with polyurethane. When I finally sanded a bunch with 220 - getting down to an earlier layer, but not all the way to bare wood - and then applied thinned ARS, the surface improved, but still had streaks. My best guess is that the main streaking was in the original ARS layer, and I'll just need to sand past that - to the original wood - and start over.
  6. Hi everyone. Some background: I seem to be terrible at finishing. My projects generally turn out well, with unusual designs (motivated by having odd, mixed pieces of wood that I've collected here and there for years), solid construction and the like. My finishing skills, unfortunately, leave much to be desired. I've tried numerous products, but generally prefer stain (danish oil is easy and looks good), followed by polyurethane for protection. Several coats of a thin, wipe-on poly have generally been the only way I'll get perhaps a "fair" finish. Not good, by a long shot, but fair. Anything else, and I'd classify the finish as poor, every single time. I've watched video after video on finishing techniques. Tried fast application, slow application, regular bristle brush, lightweight foam brush, thicker foam brush, old T-shirts or socks (which absolutely always seem to give off little bits of material), store-bought application pads, and allegedly "lint-free" cloths (which always give off lint). Pre-soak with mineral spirits, or don't pre-soak. Thick application, thin application, circular motion, or long strokes with the grain. Invariably, no material or technique substantially changes my bad results: streaks, bubbles, whatever. Here's my latest attempt. The table got Watco danish oil (first photo; looks fine) and a couple weeks to dry. Garage stats are about 75 Fahrenheit, maybe 40-45% humidity. That shouldn't be too bad. Then all *but* the top got several coats of that wipe-on poly -- the only thing that halfway works for me, although it's said that this stuff leaves a plastic-y look. I next applied Arm-R-Seal (gloss) to the top, with a folded-up cloth. Naturally, streaks appeared. Two additional coats, and the streaks were still there. I know that poly doesn't "melt into" the previous coat, as some finishes do; but that doesn't (or didn't) necessarily mean to me that later coats couldn't conceal earlier streaks. Apparently, though, they can't. In frustration, last night, I got out a 220 sanding sponge and sanded the whole thing vigorously until I must surely have gotten through much of the existing finish. Then, ignoring the can's "don't thin" admonition, I thinned to about 50% with mineral spirits, and applied it with a foam brush and long, with-grain strokes. The finish actually appeared to go on much better and more smoothly, and I think the last coat looks fine. Streaks, however -- almost certainly from earlier coats -- as well as scratches apparently from less-than-entirely-careful sanding, still stand out. My question: what now? Will additional coats of poly ever conceal the streaks, or would they merely be a waste of time and finish? As hideous as it feels to do so, I'm frustrated enough with perpetual rough finishes that I have half a mind to take a random-orbit sander to the whole top, sand to bare wood (probably requiring another danish oil application and several days of curing), carefully sand around the edges to blend with the wipe-on poly on the rest of the piece, then completely redo the top using several coats of highly thinned Arm-R-Seal applied like I did with that last, apparently-better coat. If I do that, what grit might y'all recommend? I have a finish sander too. It's much slower, but does seem less likely to leave pig-tails or other weirdnesses. Photos. (No sure what order they'll appear in.) (1) After danish oil only. (2) The streaks -- considerably improved from their earlier form after the heavy sanding and highly-thinned coat. (3) More streaks and a scratch, perhaps from sanding. (4) Perhaps another issue: I've seen these goofy long "swipes" after using a belt sander, and apparently didn't get this one out. Doing so seems to require an inordinate amount of additional random-orbit sanding at about 100 grit. Can anyone tell me what these are about? Thanks, and sorry for the long winded post.
  7. I'd suggest first applying some cooking-spray "lubricant" to the blade, as I did, to see if you get the same results I did. But, I don't really want to suggest that.
  8. Very plausible. I'd just applied some oil to the blade before cutting up the stuff, hoping to make the job go more...smoothly. :-/ I hadn't had a problem with the cooking spray before. Maybe it causes problems only on woods like this.
  9. Yes, that's just some dust that I hadn't wiped off yet when I took the photos. Occasionally, I'll put some Pam cooking spray on a blade, to help lubricate it a bit. Doing so has actually been suggested in the instructions of some of the blades I've bought. I wonder if that stuff could somehow have reacted in an unusual way with whatever chemicals are in Osage Orange. Seems like a stretch, but I'm not a chemist and really don't know.
  10. I think you're right. It looks like the wood in the picture you posted before, and like other photos of osage orange that I saw online. Definitely some unusual stuff, at least in comparison with other woods I've used.
  11. Here's a photo of the wood that caused the problem.
  12. Ha! That looks exactly like the freshly cut part of this piece. Looks like this wasn't peach after all. :-/
  13. Yesterday, I attempted to resaw an approximately 4x4x12 inch chunk of wood that was labeled, rightly or wrongly, "peach." This was one of many pieces of lumber, small and large, that were collected (and sometimes labeled) by my father, many years ago, mostly from my grandfather's old property. This piece was very heavy and hard, and somewhat of an orange color, so "peach" doesn't seem out of the question, although I haven't used peach wood before and don't know directly how it looks and feels. All this wood is nice and dry; it has been sitting indoors since the 1970s or 80s. The blade began to bog down and wander during the second cut. That hasn't happened here in years, as I'm familiar with tuning-up bandsaws and with correct blade choice. Soon, it was clear that something wasn't right, and I stopped the saw. The blade, the rubber on the wheels, and all the guides and the areas around them were totally gummed up with gunk! In fact, the entire blade (a 105", 5/8" wide 3 TPI blade that I use for light resawing) was *completely* covered in gunk, like I'd never seen before. Seriously, not a single spot of metal was visible. It's like the blade was made of orange plastic. 100% pasted with gunk. I really should have taken a picture, but didn't. I had to hand-turn the blade, holding a sharp chisel just behind the teeth, taking many turns, just to remove gunk from the sides of the blade. Some small implements and lots of work removed gunk from the teeth. An intentionally not-too-sharp putty knife and lots of turns finally got gunk off the wheels. The areas all around the guides, and throughout the saw, had to be cleaned up. I had to remove the guide bearings completely, and painstakingly clean them up. One of them had to be disassembled, getting inside to where the ring of ball bearings separate the inner and outer cylinders. That one no longer turns so well, and will probably need to be replaced. From cutting this wood, the whole shop now has a very strong and sort of funny (strange-funny, not funny-funny) sweet smell. Neither particularly good-sweet nor bad-sweet; just generic sweet. As for the saw and blade, cleaning them up took all afternoon, but the blade doesn't seem too much worse for wear. I've never encountered this sort of thing before. It's as if the entire block of wood was infused with some sort of goopy, oily stuff. Normal fruitwood surely can't be like that, can it? Has anyone here had this sort of experience?
  14. Thanks for your comments. I may put the boards in my garage, somewhere near the small vent from my central AC to the garage. There'd be occasional airflow, at least, when the AC runs. Regarding stickers, some of the online information I found actually suggests doubling-up the stickers at the ends of the wood, to slow the endgrain drying even a bit more beyond what the sealant (in my case, latex paint) might do. So, I plan to do that as well.
  15. Thanks for the information. It occurred to me that there's actually a small vent from my home's central AC to the garage. It never has done any good at keeping the garage cool in summer and warm in winter, probably because the garage's roof isn't insulated. However, if I move some things around, I could probably place the stack near the vent. Then, it would get a bit of airflow occasionally, whenever the AC runs. Maybe that would be enough.