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About KustomKreation

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    Owner of Kreation Studios - Woodworking & Design. I mainly build custom furniture and interior/exterior wood decor for homes, bars, shops, restaurants etc.
  1. I recently after much waiting finally got a bandsaw. The model is a Bernardo HS 350 N (14 inch ). I ran threw all the steps of setting it up....but have hot some major issues when it comes to re-sawing... I have tried and tried to adjust the drift using the fence without success.... it keeps making a non linear cut. giving up on the fence i decided that if the blade is 90 degrees to the table (which it is) then i would just score a line on the piece i want to re-saw and do it free hand. i though this would work....but no.... when i cut following the line i score on the
  2. Thanks for the replies. I'll buy some of the fabric dye and give it a test, i was planning to do it anyway. i just wanted a heads up to see if it was a complete waste of time or not. Thanks for checking out the page! Appreciate it. Yeah the screw thing maybe sound a bit "bodge job" and scary, but i too k the time to make sure it was a safe as using a regular router bit, and i was only routing into soft MDF, not sure i would do it with a harder material. But it worked perfectly!
  3. i possibly could could by it from Lockwood....but i'm not in America.... And where i am we have even less choices of wood working supplies than those poor people in Canada...
  4. I'm making a a pick guard for someones electric guitar, i'm using a 4mm birch ply veneered with 0.6mm flamed maple. The guy wants the finish to be a lime green burst, kind of what is in the picture below. I searched for ages trying to find a suitable colour wood dye without success, but my local craft store has a ton of fabric dyes, and it has exactly the colours i need. Has anyone tried using a fabric dye on a veneer? i wouldn't opt for this is it was thicker lumber but if anyone has any experience about using it on veneer i would love to hear.
  5. I have a series of doors to make for a kitchen. The cabinet carcasses from IKEA have already been purchased and installed. the carcasses are of course melamine... and the doors i'm making are Plywood. The customer would like to know if it is possible to have butt hinges (like in the picture). The doors and drawers i am making are also like in the picture. i'm guessing no, as i'm unable to countersink hinge into the carcass, and to screw onto the inside of the carcass would leave a gap... Are there any modern hybrid hinges that allow mounting onto a melamine cabinet carcass , bu
  6. I did think it could be veneered....but in reality i'm not really set up at the shop yet to do veneering to a good standard,so i'm going with solid lumber.
  7. Just had an inquiry about making this table. What wood is the table top, walnut? mahogany? or something else?
  8. Yeah i was also thinking that a wooden seat is gonna be...uncomfortable.... But anyway the guy wants what he wants! I'm still waiting on him sending me pictures of his bike and the seat shape he wants. All i know at the moment is that he wanted the seat to be alternated laminated up strips of mahogany and Birch (national Finnish tree)... My first suggestion was to change the woods... i can think of two less boring woods to use that won't do a crowing piece justice. So i'm thinking of using something like Koa and and contrasting lighter figured wood, flamed maple or something...
  9. So i have had a request to make a make a wooden motorcycle seat for a biker biddy of mine to be the crown on his custom bike. I have spent most of today trying to find pictures and other resources about wooden motorcycle seats....and haven't come up with much... Can anyone throw any links my way or any information about making one? Appreciated.
  10. Looks very much like those recessed drawer pulls that Matthias made on his pantograph. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpYGpetfW_Q
  11. Thanks for the replies. i don't have a shaper, so i'm going to have to get a router cutter. i was also thinking it was an off centered bullnose cutter. The drawer and door fronts don't have the rabbet on the back. it's only that round over. The angle of the picture does make it difficult to determine if the round over is a-symmetrical or not. But the customer has requested the round over be shallow..more leaning towards what the picture looks like.
  12. i have had a request to make copies of these drawer fronts, with matching doors. What kind of round over bit has been used to make the edges? anyone have any ideas?
  13. Yes, it is a face frame of MDF that is being attatched to the raw particle board edge of the carcass. The carcass parts are ripped from larger sheets of melamine. I expect that the original display cases have the faces just screwed on,and then the screw heads filled and painted over. I noticed some very small gaps in a couple of places between the join of the MDF face frame and the melamine sides. Which would suggest they probably weren't even glued...or at least not very well. i think glue and screwing, then filling the screw heads seems to be the the most efficient way.
  14. i start next week building some display cabinets for a jewellers. The cabinets are to be replicas of existing cabinets in the shop. The cabinets have a 16mm MDF face attatched onto an 18mm melamine carcass. The MDF fronts are painted(obviously), but i see no evidence by looking aroung the existing cabinets of how they are attatched onto the carcass. The displays cabinets are big, 1000mm wide and 2200mm high. They have 2 large drawers in the bottom and then the main shelving display section, with glass doors. Complete with lighting. Can anyone suggest a way to do it that will provide a
  15. Thanks for the tips! The sign will be mounted outside. I have a can of boat lacquer in the shop which has a very amberish tone to it. It is urethane alkyd based,so what tint could be used to add the colour? A paste? a powder tint?