Lawrence Brown

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About Lawrence Brown

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday 05/02/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Woodworking Interests
    If it's about crafting, shaping, or fabricating wood or metal, I'm interested.
  1. I'd like to know where to get the magnetic latches. I recently finished something a lot similar for a customer where the side panels of the pillars of a fireplace mantel have offset pins that let you push on them near the back to rotate them open (I'll get pictures up here eventually). Not very sophisticated, but the client thought they were fun. The latches would be better. Then you could do actual drawers and things. Then there also these (there are places you can get them cheaper): http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=30187&site=ROCKLER&filter=stealthlock Interesting thing
  2. Are you trying to buy locally? Don't know if there is a woodcraft or Rockler near you, but you can order online. They're not the cheapest things in the world, but not horribly expensive. http://www.woodcraft.com/search2/search.aspx?query=3/4%20roundover%20bit The quadracut bits here are nice: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18711&site=ROCKLER Also, a search of the net will turn up several good router bit manufacturers that you can order from.
  3. I'm with Rob. I hear "Midi" and I immediately look for a keyboard.
  4. That's pretty cool. I think all the platforms for mounting equipment on it are pretty neat, but as mentioned, unless I was really space-challenged I wouldn't want to have to constantly reconfigure for each operation. The idea of the attached tracksaw track is awesome. I'm thinking I might want to try adding that to my assembly table. That would replace about half of what I do on the tablesaw and be a lot safer. Other than the track, I recognize a lot of that hardware from places like Lee Valley. It was interesting that they also threw in an Incra fence in there. And the hand drill with the san
  5. As Dlhunter said, LED's are a good option these days. They are still a bit pricey, but they fit just about anywhere. Rockler has a decent selection now, complete with a few different switch options and so on. I'm guessing Woodcraft has similar. Not sure where you're located, but if you don't have one of those near you, you can order from both places online.
  6. Thanks. I haven't used the T1-11 before, so I don't know it's characteristics. I was actually more concerned about the sheathing behind the Tyvek and the possibility of trapping moisture in it from direct rain on the Tyvek (I know it's not actually "waterproof", just resistant), but I guess that's the very reason why its used - so that the moisture can get out again.
  7. Okay, so this is more about construction than woodworking, but it's a question on building my shop, so I hope it's in the right place. For those of you that have built your own shops (or other structures), I've got the basic structure built. The sheathing is up on the walls and there is a roof. Now it's time to put on the siding. Trouble is, we've now hit the rainy season. I can't do everything in one day, so the easiest way for me would be to put on the Tyvek house wrap all at once, and then add the siding over that as quick as I can. The trouble is, I know it's going to rain in between
  8. Not at all. It's like getting a new tool or other new toy to play with Learning the characteristics of a new wood can be just as exciting as learning about anything else. There's always a challenge to master. I myself have been using a lot of hard maple lately in conjunction with birch ply for an entertainment center I'm building for a customer. Luckily, they wanted a very light "scandinavian" finish, so I've just been putting on a coat of shellac and then polyurethane, and the two seem to match pretty well. The only trouble I've been having, like others have said, is with a lot of burnin
  9. I use a little app on my ipod called Pug. Yes, it's a weird name, but it works pretty well with lots of options for tracking projects, materials, clients, and so on, and I can export stuff from it if I need to. Most of the time though I just use the time clock functions sort of as an informal record for my own use. I tend to bid on projects based on the time I believe it should take me and then give them a set price rather than trying to charge by the hour and then worrying about every minute spent. That way if a job ends up taking me longer because I estimate wrong or I consciously decide
  10. I'd stay away from pressure treated lumber, especially if you are growing anything you are going to eat, but even regular plants would be sensitive to the chemicals in it. There is also the problem that the chemicals will very quickly rust nails and screws unless they are hot-dip galvanized. The best thing would probably hardwoods with an outdoor finish and some kind of plastic inserts so that the only water coming into contact with the wood would be the occasional spill, which could just be wiped up. If you look at the link Fransikaner provided, they are basically heavy plastic. I'd just find
  11. So what do you mean by a giant pen? Are you using one of the large pens or doing something on your own? If you're using a kit, is there a reason you can't just use the mandrel that's made for it? Mandrels take a bit more work and are fussier to make than you might think.
  12. As the others say, local wood is usually available from various sources, especially if you just want it for practice. Remember also that the wood turners want usually is what others would pass over or burn, like crotches, root balls, and burls. When I first started, the first thing I did was look on craigslist. It didn't take long before I found an add that said, "Just cut down a maple. Wood is out front and free to haul away." I'm still trying to use it all up. builders want clear wood, we want interesting wood, so you should be able to find lots once you start looking. Any turning clubs in y
  13. Try not to get too frustrated. It sounds like you are doing a fantastic job of what I'll call "organized" learning. I was being rather emphatic with my last post because a lot of times new people will try something out, have a really hard time of it, and not realize that it was the tools and not them. Clearly you have thought it through and know what to look for and how to qualify your results. Keep it up, and I hope you get the shop space issues worked out:) Couldn't tell from a quick look at your blog, but with you mentioning microbevels, are you using some kind of honing guide and a flat
  14. Hmm... If you are getting any discoloration at all of the metal and you're sure it's not from something like getting OSB glue dust or something on it, then you've probably got heat. You don't really need to measure it precisely or anything. A good rule is to just use the tool for a bit, especially if you can see that discoloration happen, and then immediately take it away from the lathe and put your finger on it. If it's "uncomfortable" to touch, then it's probably too hot for the glue. If it's so hot that you burn your finger, well, then you've got bigger problems. You might want to just try
  15. So, as I mentioned in a previous post, I'm suddenly looking for a miter saw. Trouble is, it seems that on every one that I've looked at, even the tiniest bit of pressure side to side on the handle will cause the blade to deflect a bit. coming from more of a machinist background, I tend to be a little overly picky about these things, but it seems to me that this is a bad thing. Does anyone else notice it, and/or does it seem to make any real difference? My thinking has always been that it would be good enough for framing, where "close" is usually good enough, but then again, you would also u