Hybrid-woodworker

Members
  • Content Count

    237
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

19 Neutral

About Hybrid-woodworker

  • Rank
    Journeyman Poster
  • Birthday April 20

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Benson, NC
  • Woodworking Interests
    Turrning, furniture , jigs and fixtures
  1. That may be but we are talking about a home, not a cell tower. I'm going to assume in those circumstances that the lighting hit the tower and the bulk of the charge was shunted to ground. The emf is what chared the industrial special purpose circuit breaker. A lightning bolt hits the beach and the sand is fused to glass, sometimes as deep as 3 feet. A similar hit on the power pole, the transformer or the service entrance wires will not stop at a circuit breaker ( they are too slow), the arc surpressor that the power company installs will shunt a portion of the current until it vaporizes,
  2. A surge suppressor will NOT protect from lightening. Even the arc gap protectors that the power company rents you will not protect you from lightning. We are talking 100s of thousand of volts and a million amps. Surge suppressor a are for noisy power, spikes and surges only. BRuce
  3. The ISOBAR is rated at 12 amps, the other is not rated. I've ised ISOBAR products for years on my home theater and couters, they are great. Will it work with your drum sander, maybe? You need to know what the unit draws when it is running, not the nameplate info. Banging the surge suppressor with 15amps will impact its life. You would be better off with a 20 amp extension cord, there Re even some with a 3 outlet ends on them. Since an extension cord has no circuitry it should last forever. BRuce
  4. I spent some time with this issue and ultimately it ended up on the floor again. I keep the TS with the left side close enough to the wall that I would not chose to walk that way and run the duct down the wall to the saw and router. In my case it is 6" duct so I built a 6 x 6 x 6 switchable gate rather than split it for both. I still have 30"+ left of the blade so I can rip to the center of a 4' panel. I tried various places from the ceiling down but always found that it was in the way of wide TS cuts or long stock on the router. I guess if my shop was wide enough I would run it down on
  5. The reducing ring is the plate that the router bit sticks up through on the table. They are normally interchangeable so you can get zero clearance. Sometimes that plates are not made correctly and are off center. Your bit could have shaved a few slivers off this plate. Look at the hole in the plate and see what it looks like. Bruce
  6. Thanks Chuck, the cost was not the factor, I would rather pay more and not have to fuss with it. I like the length range. Bruce
  7. Thanks for the review. I guess my question is, will it be helpfu?. I have been using a brad nailer for times when showing was not an issue and clamps when it was an issue. Will I find paces to really need it or will it just get used because I bought it? Bruce
  8. I have a small shop and keep mine on the wall but I believe I would build a cat if I was in a garage. I would keep clamps, glue, brad nailer, drills and screws on it. This would keep all the assembly items in one place and easy to find regardless of its location. BRuce
  9. I would be interested in your findings. I don't have a pin nailer yet but do have one on my "research" list. BRuce
  10. The times I have needed more than 30" rip capacity are very few and as you say you can break down a full sheet of plywood other ways. You can use a board, 2 clamps and a $40 skill saw, no need for a track saw if you only do this twice a year. If you buy the size that fits then you can add drop down extensions to increase the size. Or as many people do, build an assembly table that is the same height as the table saw and use that for a larger TS table when needed. I won't try and advise you on the SS vs PM as that borders on religion and I have a Delta so no personal experience with eithe
  11. I had some slivers like that once and found that they come from the reducing ring. Was your ring aluminum?
  12. I didn't have to worry about that, my covenants only prohibit mobile homes without underpinning.
  13. If you heat or cool your shop, then all the conditioned air is blown outside. I did this for several years until propane prices started to rise. I hade the DC in the shed behind my garage. I upgraded to a ClearVue cyclone and it too is in the shed but the filters are in the shop so the air is returned. BRuce
  14. Yes you can build one but there are lot of things to consider. Too many wood workers have fires every year from sparks in the dust bin, oily rags, soldering coper air lines with a torch and the list goes on. No need to build a $30 switch if you don't have the skils. I was a licensed electrician and when it came time to control my ClearVue cyclone I used all coper wire, all the correct gauge, a relay ( contactor actually) the correct contacts and I built it in a NEMA enclosure. The relay was 18VAC so I could run doorbell wire to all the blast gates. Even with all this planning, I put a s
  15. Plug a power strip into it? Building one if you are not familiar with electisity and electronics could be dangerous to you and your possessions. :-) BRuce