Chris H

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Chris H

  1. On 5/6/2017 at 8:54 PM, WoodNDust said:

    What did you end up deciding?  Funny thing is that I'm looking at the same decision right now.  I have the Grizzly G0562Z 3 HP dust collector.  I am considering the Oneida Super Dust Deputy XL.  Here is a link to someone who added the Super Dust Deputy XL to their G0562 with apparent success.

    I also looked at the Clearvue, though I haven't found anyone who has added the Clearvue to this Grizzly dust collector.

    I ended going without a separator for the short term.  Appreciate the link though.  I did mount the blower directly to the top of the DDXL, so perhaps the venting was enough to slow air turbulence or I had a leak somewhere.  I ended up returning the DDXL with the intent to buy into a CV at some point, but couldn't swing it immediately financially.  Given the link shared, I may try the DDXL again, being extremely careful of any leaks, and then if still having issues, just adding some distance and bends between the blower and the separator.  

  2. 3 hours ago, Lucasd2002 said:

    Anyone have opinions on whether the clearview is worth the ~$200 premium over the DDXL?

    The ClearVue is substantially larger than the DDXL.  I am not suggesting that necessarily justifies it, but they are pretty different.


  3. On 4/11/2017 at 10:55 AM, blackoak said:

    Thanks Collin, that is the guy. He has 3 sizes on his website, with left and right versions of each. I wonder about the blower being too strong for the Dust Deputy XL. I have read that any leaks below the cyclone will pull chips out of the drum. Could this be part of the problem for Chris?Most guys say their systems are under powered , and this is why I started with a 3HP Grizzly blower . 

    I actually had this exact problem with my HF 2HP version.  I checked for leaks, so I don't think that it.  Good thought though.

    On 4/11/2017 at 8:34 AM, collinb said:

    The first though that came to mind was to throttle back the blower with a speed control. But that would probably defeat whole purpose of increased suction.  Might as well use a shop vac at that point.

    I personally would buy given the $149 units on eBay and how much time it will take one to build it.

    If the price were higher I'd look into a sheet of wacky wood, or maybe sheet metal, for the cone and some steel for a fame to put it all on a cart.

    This is a good thought, but I believe this would be tool small.  Dimensions seem like they are similar to the SDD XL.  I think I may be stuck either forking over the $450 to CV or building.

  4. I have recently upgraded my 2HP Harbor Freight unit, that had a Wynn Filter and Super Dust Deputy, with a Grizzly G0562.


    The original plan was just to plop the new blower on the existing setup and expand/replace the filters (ignorant in hind sight).  However, I quickly found that this was much too much motor for the "Super Dust Deputy".  First time I fired it up, it sucked the pipes clean as well as emptied the barrel.  So the backup plan was to upgrade to the "Super Dust Deputy XL".  The motor overpowered that as well.  I could get the barrel to about 25% full before the chips just went right to the filter/bags.  


    So my question for the forum is if anyone has any experience building a large cyclone, and if so, do you recommend the build or just buy?  I have limited metal experience, but always willing to learn, especially on shop projects.  If buy is the recommendation, any economical options out there?  I can only find options online to buy the blower with the cyclone.  

  5. I have both a Shelix version in my DW735 planer and the Grizzly 8" Jointer with factory installed helix cutter.  The planer leaves a better surface than the jointer, but I tend to hog more off with the jointer too.  I do suspect the 90 degree cutter results in a bit of extra tear out, though for me it's not enough to warrant any changes.  


    If the cost of the aftermarket is comparable (and keep labor in mind, because it's a job to swap out cutter heads) then I'd go after market. 


  6. On 1/28/2017 at 7:26 PM, K Cooper said:

    @Chris H, Are you satisfied with the way your collector is working now? I eliminated the turnbuckles and replaced them ratchet tie downs over the top but have not had a chance to try them out yet.

    I have been extremely impressed with it's performance.  I have run a couple hundred board feet through full milling at this point, and there is only a 1/4 cup or so in the bag.  I will keep the ratchet straps in mind though if the turnbuckles fail again.  

    On 1/28/2017 at 7:44 PM, wdwerker said:

    Just now catching up on this thread and I see a soda can on your cast iron jointer table ! Nice looking shop !

    No real risk of sweating can....sadly the shop is colder than the can!

  7. 6 hours ago, Waldvogel Review said:

    To reply again

    I looked at the ball valves at my local Home Depot

    They only had 1 of the 2" valves for my setup, cost 12$ and DANG I couldn't hardly open the thing with 2 hands ! So tight, it almost needs that water to work properly

    Soooo I WILL be making my own blast gates after all

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    You can find blast gates for significantly less than the cost of ball valves.|THD|google|&mid=sGGzTBmKX|dc_mtid_8903tb925190_pcrid_111416414825_pkw__pmt__product_207141280_slid_&gclid=Cj0KEQiAhs3DBRDmu-rVkuif0N8BEiQAWuUJr_Fhpvw9rQvFElP6QhJecq3uvIbgR6NoEF4zYfOjgXwaAksd8P8HAQ

  8. 13 hours ago, Brendon_t said:

    Hmm. Nope.  All conclusions seem sound to me.

     The 2hp of the hf unit was the adjective added to the noun to describe it since hf sells three units.  Two piles of crap and the 2hp unit which gets pretty high marks both stock and modified. 

    So perhaps we are saying the same thing.  Shopvac < 2HP HF Unit.   Yes?

  9. 3 minutes ago, Seth Clayton said:

    What do you mean by "Frankenstein-ing" one of these things? What can you change on them? I see the HF model with the stronger motor...

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I was referring to the conversion from single stage non HEPA to a dual stage HEPA unit.  Basically adding a pleated felt <.03 micron filter and a separator (dust deputy).  


    Motor strength isn't really the issue.  You can surely get better DCs with larger motors, but then you are moving into significant $$$.  2HP is a pretty respectable motor for small shop DC.  Most dual stages <$1k are smaller than 2HP.  

  10. 8 hours ago, Brendon_t said:

    That thing just doesn't have the balls to bother ducted in and with a 2hp hf unit that has been frankensteined a million ways,  I see that as a waste of money. 

    I think you may be drawing some false conclusions.  A HF 2HP model out of the box will embarrass just about any shop vac on the market.  (I am differentiating shop vac and dust extractors here.)  The most important difference is not the motor, but instead the impeller.  Most shop vacs are running tiny impellers, where a dust collector, like HF is running ~7"-8" (~2x-3x larger).   I can't remember the sizes, but the specifics aren't important, the proportionality is what counts.  

    HP in a motor simply represents how much load you can put the motor under, you can gear RPMs to get the speed that is ideal.  This is important with large impeller, but not so much with small.  Don't get me wrong, HP is good, but you cannot compare a shop vac to a true DC, the math just doesn't work.  

    A DC will serve you much better in the long run versus a shop vac.  A shop vac is designed for a short runs and small volumes at high CFM.  A DC is designed for long runs and greater volume more consistent CFMs.  You see the HF Frankenstein'd because folks (myself included) are trying to get higher end DC performance out of it, not because they are trying to keep up with shop vacs.  


    Out of the box HF DC > Shop Vac for the use you are describing, plus you have the option to Frankenstein it down the road should you choose.  I did the shop vac thing in my first shop and was very disappointed.  

    Dragging a 4" flex hose around your shop will be less expensive and much greater performance than piping 1.5" permanently.  4" permanent will be a great target to achieve someday, but I don't recommend spending money on piping you will want to replace in a year or two.  The cost difference between 1.5" and 4" is not that dramatic.  When you want to go above 4" it gets kinda crazy, but up to 4" its pretty cheap.  

    • Like 1

  11. On 12/29/2016 at 9:43 PM, K Cooper said:

    Chris, I did the same thing, filter and all. At first, I was getting only teaspoons of dust in the secondary. Now, about a year later, I'm getting about 50/50 and no idea why. I thought it may have been that the blades were getting coated in crud but checked and they're clean. Don't know bud?

    I found out what the issue was on mine, and I am hoping this can help you too.  Seems the sheet metal that connects the wyn filter is clipped to buckled.  I am assuming this was from one of the many times I was moving it around prior to fixing it in place.  


    Here is a pic to show what I mean:IMG_1562.JPG]


    Simply adjusting those and tightening them down has almost eliminated the problem.  So I'd guess your issue is similar, in that you don't have enough resistance from the filter.  Could be the clips not adding enough tension or some other gap somewhere beyond the separator.  

    Hope this helps!

    • Like 1

  12. If you do decide to go the self built method, you can use a CNC or contract out to cut a pattern template, to ensure your circles are dead perfect.  You will need the qwas dogs or some other hole dog to make it work.  Shouldn't cost you more than a couple bucks for the time to program your hole pattern and then punch in thickness of your router bearing and away you go.  (Maybe a commercial option out there too.)


    This is on my list of things to do.  Love the setup Llama's got going.  Only mod I'd probably make is tossing some extruded aluminum rails around it and dropping some kind of rail and TS system on to get the super easy, perfect square cut all the time.  


    Looks like you can also buy the "bridge" from EZ for $250 if you wanted to just build your own.  This seems far more economical.  Not sure how they $750 of value out of the rest of it to be honest.  

    • Like 1

  13. I am not familiar with the EZ-1, but recently bought an MFT.  It is incredibly simple, but useful.  I agree...not sure why you wouldn't build it to handle at least the 48" cut needed for a full sheet, but I do think a very simply extension could be build to accommodate larger work support.

    You really don't need the full table to have the perfect holes.  The reference points of purpose, at least for me, are just the fence and the blade guide.  The rest is just waste.  I am using a Makita TS on my FS MFT simply because it's what I had already.  If you are looking to invest in a TS, don't just right to Festool, shop around.  FS may be what is best for you, but price is steep, and I am not sure it's a better product.  I've read a lot of reviews that are very very happy with the Makita and it's about half the price.  I love mine, though I'll admit, I haven't had a FS to know for sure. The Makita does all I need it to do, and does it well.  

  14. 21 minutes ago, TIODS said:

    Any concerns with the piping being hung so low?  Coming along awesome!

    They are higher than they may seem.  Each is at least 7' from the floor.  I am only about 6', so it isn't a big concern.  I debated running it at the ceiling, but didn't want to add extra vertical climb for and decent fighting gravity and adding sharper bends and hurting airflow / CFM.  I keep reading that the HF DC is under powered, so I am trying to help it as much as possible.  I did intentionally buildit so it would be easy to pop up high down the road if it's a issue.

    • Like 1

  15. DC ducting is finally in.  Converted a 2HP HF single stage to a two stage.  



    I am getting more dust in the bag below the filter than I would have expected.  I sucked up about a half a barrel (55 gallon) and I'd guess about 15%-20% is in the bag below the filter.  Reviewing others that have posted online, this seems like too much.  Any ideas what would be causing this?  Anyone else experience this?




  16. On 11/26/2016 at 11:12 PM, bleedinblue said:

    Well crap...I bought the Makita based on the overwhelming positive reviews.  Hopefully I didn't choose poorly.  I suppose it'll be easy enough to flip if the saw doesn't live up to expectations.

    I have one and I love it.  I'll admit I was going from a dewalt circular saw and a plywood track I built to a beautifully machined tool, so the difference is night and day.  If you went from or are accustom to festool tools, you may be disappointed (though the price should have been your first clue).  For me, the point was that it was a value balance that worked with my budget and needs.  I haven't noticed as much play as described above, but it isn't perfect.  


    For me, it is a tool almost exclusively dedicated to rough cutting wood that will either be re-cut later or that just doesn't need to be dead nuts on.  I would say I use is about 90% to break down sheet goods, and the other 10% to get a straight line rip on rough sawn lumber from the mill.  I use the jointer most of the time, but when it's really squirrely, I find the track saw can take as big of a bite as I need in one pass and then the jointer can do the finish work.  

    I'd love for Makita to come out with a MFT table knock off for it.  I'd buy it in a heart beat.  It's on my list of shop projects but it's way down the list at the moment.

    My biggest beef with the saw is the joining of two tracks. It isn't seem-less and there is play which can result in a bowed cut is the stock isn't flat.  Good ply almost always is, but the cheap stuff isn't and rough lumber rarely is.  Again, 2 minutes at the jointer will fix this, but it is an annoyance. 

  17. With prices as they are, vented gas heaters are your best bang for the buck. I would take a hard look at the ceiling insulation and trying to add more. Bonus points if you can get a wifi thermostat and turn it up from your phone before you even step foot in the shop.

    Wifi is already installed IMG_1517.thumb.JPG.4ac1d43dab38b2f8800a1

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    • Like 1

  18. Any HVAC experts out there that can help me understand best heating options for a WI winter in a new shop?

    We have propane on the property and there is no cost to run an extra line to the shop (they eat that cost assuming they'll make it up in additional tonnage).  In addition the shop has full 200 Amp electrical service with room in the panel for whatever is needed (assuming 240 power).

    Building has ~R16 insulation (R13 Fiberglass + R3 Radiant Barrier).  I am not looking to keep it house temperatures.  Looking to keep it around 40 degerees to avoid freezing finishes and the like.  I'd probably knock it up to high 50s low 60s to work in.  I typically get 3-4 nights a week about 2-3 hours each of shop time.  What is the most economical way to heat that space?

  19. 19 hours ago, davestanton said:

    Line the interior with drywall or plywood?

    Yes, I will eventually put Plywood up, but not until I am confident in the insulation and have the final climate control installed (likely not for a year or two).

  20. On 11/17/2016 at 3:58 AM, davestanton said:

    Are you going to line the building?

    I am not sure what you mean by "line"?


    On 11/17/2016 at 9:22 AM, estesbubba said:

    Looks good - are you going to put up walls?

    There is a cripple wall in middle to chase wiring as well as add some places to hang jigs and stuff.