Chris H

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Everything posted by Chris H

  1. Chris H

    New Shop Build

    Thanks for feedback. Here is an updated pic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Chris H

    New Shop Build

    I have 3 bids now, and they are all coming in around $1.15/sqft @ 1". Unfortunately all recommend at least 2" of foam. So a 1,000 sqft shop has roughly 3,000 - 3,500 sqft of surface to insulate depending if you insulate an installed ceiling or spray right on the roof line. So with a 2" need for spray you are looking at $7k-$8k. The good news is this is about the same price as the DIY kits, so it's a no brainer to pay a pro. The bad news is that this is easily double the cost of less desirable alternatives, and on a $15k-$20k workshop, it's a big %. More pics to come once it stops raining!
  3. Chris H

    New Shop Build

    Yeah, we are a Honda family. Used to have a Pilot (favorite car ever), but had to get domesticated with the second kid. Dual automatic sliding doors are worth their weight in gold. Not sure how or why, we didn't do it sooner! Thanks for the feedback. I put out an RFP this weekend to get a couple more contractors in to quote the insulation job. Hopefully someone has a better price than the first estimate, or we are going to have to wait a year or two to pay for it. Last quote for spray was about 1/2 the price of the entire building. Seems kinda crazy!
  4. Chris H

    New Shop Build

    Does Anyone have any experience with DIY foam insulation? This would help with costs. Still much more than bat insulation, but would cut the cost approximately in half. Most of the reviews are positive, but it's people doing a small area. The a 1000 sqft shop,walls and ceilings, it would be a big effort.
  5. Chris H

    New Shop Build

    Well it's official! The new shop is underway. Materials are on site, and the site prep has started. It's going to be a long road ahead, but the wife can't stop it now! I have been doing tons of research on how to insulate the building, and to be honest, I can't find a whole lot of agreement other than closed cell spray is the only "good" solution and it is by far the most expensive. Anyone else have some experience with insulating a steel pole building? The goal isn't to keep is 100% climate controlled all the time, which I know causes some of the moisture concerns with fiberglass. We are in South Eastern Wisconsin, so we get a little bit of every kind of weather. My primary concern is more around humidity control than temperature, but we will have to deal with both. I have been working out of our garage since we started building the house about 18 months ago, and the volatile humidity is just hell on projects that take weeks to complete. Since I woodwork only semi-professionally, this has caused a lot of issues for me on different projects. Milled lumber that sits is always out of square, which is very annoying! As always, appreciate any advise.
  6. You can always use both! They compliment each other well. If budget is a concern, accent with Walnut, and base cherry. I generally disagree with the concept that you'd regret either decision. If budget was never a concern, I'd build just about everything out of walnut, but it is, and I am starting like the character of some of my cherry pieces more than some of my walnut. I do almost always mix the two for things in my house. It helps to bring a hodge podge of wood projects together. Most of my work incorporates walnut, but as a secondary or accent piece. Somehow this works to bring many different pieces together. I have a dining table (gaming table) that is cherry with walnut, a humidor that is cherry with walnut, bed/chest of drawers/book cases that are hickory with walnut. Another bed that is Maple with Walnut....you get the picture. When you move from room to room, the walnut ties it all together, but lets me play around with other species. It helps to avoid getting pidgin holed into one species. Just some food for thought. In the end, it's your project, and you're the customer. The customer is always right...unless your wife says differently.
  7. First, spend the $15 and get a quality mask if you haven't already. If you spend that much time in any construction, its a no brainer. From here, your immediate health should be protected, so long as you actually wear it (easier said than done). The linked model is surprisingly comfortable though. The budget will dictate the quality of DC you get. You can search endless posts, and advice, and mine would just be one more. So far, I haven't found any shortcuts. If you have more time than budget, build your own system (Stumpy Nubs) has some decent information if you want to go this route. If your time is more limited, there is no shortage of commercial units and solutions. ClearVue, Onieda, Tempest, etc. etc. I'd plan your DC like any other tool. Spend what you need to get what you really want the first time. I can tell you I have dumped too much money into progressively better solutions, and wish I'd have just saved my money and bought a real workhorse. Even a cheap DC will be a huge upgrade to a shopvac, but I'd really recommend starting with a full sized cyclone system. At least $1000 on the very low end...probably too low end.
  8. Doesn't the rim joist sit on the foundation? I might be confusing my building terms, but I thought the rim joist is what sat on the foundation. Either way, keep the hole well off the ground, however you have to.
  9. You typically don't want to poke holes that close to the ground. It's not an absolute no no, but you will want to go overkill on a rodent and insect prevention in and around the area. Also if you are in an area prone to frozen precipitation, this is a definite no no. Snow can block the exhaust port and backup the system. Here in WI, all external venting has to be something like 24"-30" above grade. They are concerned about CO backup with heat/dryer vents primarily, which is obviously more serious, but you will have issues with an inspection selling the property if you poke a hole low to the ground.
  10. Agreed, except that more static pressure means the motor will have to work harder. As you stress or add resistance (static pressure) to an electric motor, it pulls more amperage. This is why you pop fuses when overburdening tools like a table saw with thick stock. The amps pulled exceeds the fused allowance and the breaker pops. >HP will overcome more static pressure (stronger motor, overcomes more resistance). More bends and curves = more static pressure (resistance). The sooner the bend or curve in the line (especially right out of the collector) the greater the impact to the overall system, requiring greater HP for the same performance or CFM. The design of your system is equally (perhaps more) important than the blower being used. A 3HP model with a poorly designed duct system will perform worse than a 2 HP with a well designed system. This is something that seems to get often overlooked, especially as I watch YouTube videos of even prominent woodworkers, hence my recommendation to find a way to get your inlet at the same height as your main run.
  11. For those that are struggling with ceiling heights, you may want to add consideration of poking holes in your ceiling to accommodate. I know this is very permanent, but it has a couple of big advantages. If you get the top of the cyclone into your rafters, you can conceal much of your piping in the rafters as well as the motor head. This will greatly reduce sound, while still giving the motor room/air flow to breath (stay cool). In addition, for most DC's the single greatest loss of CFM is that first bend out of the cyclone up to the ceiling where most of us run the pipes. If you can make it a straight shot out of the cyclone to your main run(s) you will make huge improvements to your performance. When you get into the 3+ HP models, they can brute force their way through, but you are adding unnecessary static pressure to the line which creates lots of less desirable things. More work for the motor = more electricity/amps pulled. If you are sharing a box with the rest of the house this can lead to more tripping of fuses, especially when the DC and a larger tool are going.
  12. I have the DW735 and upgraded to the spiral cutter maybe 6 months or so ago. I will never buy another joiner or planer that doesn't have one. The cut quality is good with the straight knives, but it is that much better with the spiral cutter.
  13. Chris H

    Air Filter

    Do keep in mind, the filtration is driven by the cartridge and not the unit. You can find HEPA filters at your local big box and upgrade your 1 micron to .3 or better. It'll set you back $30-$50, and you may have to modify size/shape, but it is easy to change to your preference. Focus on the amount of air it moves, and the noise, the filtration is secondary. Do keep in mind, higher filtration chokes off CFM, so buy over powered. Given the nature of CFM ratings (and lack of controls around them) I'd guess you'd be lucky to get 300 CFM out of the grizzly with a HEPA filter in it.
  14. Appreciate the feedback. Thanks!
  15. Ace, what kind of DC unit do you have? I planning to go with the 30 gauge HVAC steel (Typical Home Depot HVAC round), but one concern I had was that it might buckle under pressure. I plan to use a 2-3 HP cyclone system rated around 10-15 max static pressure and ~1500 CFM. I am guessing this is one of those internet fables (like DC explosions), but I can't seem to find any indication of what type of pressure these can handle.
  16. I am not experienced enough to make a recommendation of one over the other. I had PVC in my last shop, and am planning steel in the new shop. My decision is purely economical though. Last shop was all 4" with a single stage DC. New shop is planning to be 6" with a 3+ HP cyclone setup. When I priced it out, the steel is actually cheaper, since the lowest grade PVC I can get my hands on readily is Schedule 35. I've read about folks getting good buys on schedule 20, but you have to luck into it. Its sub-code, so not super easy to find. PVC Piping is cheaper but the accessories are absurd for 6". Steel is the opposite, with the piping being more per foot, but the accessories are substantially less. I've also found steel is easier to "manipulate" when something isn't perfect.
  17. I'd lean toward dining table if it's for you. Hall / Sofa table is if you want to recoup your costs. I'd probably try to sell off one of them in a finished piece to help offset the cost, and then keep the rest. Though, I'd just end up buying more once I sold the first.....it's a vicious cycle. Beautiful find, especially if it doesn't generate too much wife aggro. Even if it did, might be worth the fight.
  18. I have the Shelix in a Dewalt 735, and I would side with those claiming it is well worth it. 100% improvement over the straight blades. Even if it didn't cut better, or quieter, I'd say its worth it for the convenience. I haven't rotated the carbide tips yet. About a year into them. I was replacing the straight knives nearly every other project. (One project per side). I don't know about the Grizzly spiral heads, but the Shelix is worth every penny. I don't think I'll buy another planer or jointer without a spiral head installed. It ruined straight knives for me.
  19. It arrived today. Overall I was very impressed with the packaging, the faces are flawless (Other than dusty). Clearly, the packaging is what the service charge is for (two usable bead board panels on top and bottom). Boards are in good shape. The edges aren't perfect, but honestly it is consistent with most plywood, especially from a big box retailer. I will trim the edges anyway, so no real concern there. It'll be a while before I actually get to building with it, but I'll keep this thread updated if anyone is interested in the product.
  20. They are very sturdy. I tossed a couple of pieces of plywood on one and use it as scaffolding while hanging drywall on the ceiling. Held two guys without any issue. Not the intended use, but a testament to the ability to handle weight and racking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. I can, and have. There is a $15 charge per order, so spreading over a pallet, is very minimal, but on a sheet or two, it's not inconsequential. That said, even at $15 per sheet, it's cheaper than BB, so I figured I'd give it a shot. I'll try and report back once I have given it a test drive. My shop isn't erected yet, so it will be a month or so. Thanks for all the feedback. Much appreciated!
  22. One thing to consider is the mass that the enclosure brings. It sounds silly, but weight can be a big deal if you are pushing larger timbers across. I think they are about 50 LBS different. Not a deal breaker, but when you are looking for hairs to split, that is a one to consider.
  23. Autorotate, Did you use the Tigerform brand of Phenolic Plywood? It's special order only, so I don't want to order a pallet only to find out it's junk. I can't really find many reviews of the product online at all.
  24. I was actually turned onto it when I used a scrap of it from a concrete form for an extended re-saw fence for my old band saw. It's quality is actually pretty comparable to BB. I don't know if I used this brand or not though. Have you had any experience with it, to cause concern about quality?
  25. I am currently in the process of having a new stand alone shop built. As a result I will need to build a ton of shop cabinets/carts/benches/etc. I am trying to decide between baltic birch plywood or phenolic plywood. The structure of the two are very similar, the big difference is the face veneer. In Phenolic it is a hard plastic like material (similar to a laminate counter top). The cost is also significantly different (BB~$80/sheet, Phen~$50/sheet). There is likely an opportunity for negotiation on both when buying by the pallet, but I am curious if others have much experience with both? The biggest downside I can think of for the phenolic, is that you lose the ability to glue up on the face veneer. I will primarily cut dados/rabbets into slots for construction anyway, so that negates most of the concern there. The phenolic is a much more durable surface, so that is a plus for work surfaces, but not really necessary for the cabinetry. Does anyone have any experience or recommendations between these two products?