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About jmk89

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  • Woodworking Interests
    handtools, toolmaking, unfashionable styles

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  1. I can't think of any reason why not. The #55 is really just a tricked up #45. So if all you want to do is to use the same features you can do so. Screwing up in new ways every day
  2. I have had a go at straightening western saw plates. I agree with the responses to the suggestions made above - I doubt #1 and #2. #3 will work - like Bob says, my experience in trying this is that it is something where you need to develop some skill first. Like most skills of this kind (eg saw sharpening), the first saw is the hardest, and the one that you learn the most from, but it likely will not be the one that results in a perfect outcome! My second attempt got me an appreciable improvement and my third was pretty darn good IMHO . I did as Bob suggested and started with a saw in which I had no emotional investment. The most detailed explanation of the techniques that you need to use is in an article by Bob Smalser which you can find here:
  3. jmk89


    My recipe (which I have used with success) is: /> 1 teaspoon shelllac flakes 1 teaspoon asphaltum 1 teaspoon BLO enough meths to dissolve but no more (about 1.5 teaspoons). Paint on and let dry. Repeat. Put in 200*C oven for 2 hours and let cool in the oven Good luck Screwing up in new ways every day
  4. jmk89

    Grinder Tool Rests

    I find the standard tool rests for grinders to be more of a hindrance than a help and have replaced them with the very simple design that Robert Wearing shows in his book of Aids and Appliances. Here is a post that I put up in my blog on the Woodworking Forums (Australia) about this: Wearing Grinder rest
  5. I have used both jojoba and camellia oils as well as various mineral oils, waxes and also lanolin, and BLO on my tools. My take is that they all work well at preventing rust and that if you leave too much on the tool they tend to leave a sticky film which attracts sawdust and other crud. My approach is to follow the Schwarz's approach and use a "wooby" - mine is a sock (one which had lost its partner). It gets used all the time to give tools a quick wipe down as they go away. When breaking it in put oil on the tool and wipe it around with the material. After a while the material will be charged with enough oil to transfer a thin film to your tool on its own. Then I just squirt a bit of oil on it whenever I remember to. As for the oil, my wooby, like the Schwarz's, now has an unknown combo of natural and mineral oils and works great. If you want to get cheaper jojoba and camellia oils, I find them on eBay being sold as a carrier oil by the people who sell essential oils. The prices are usually cheaper than from tool suppliers (which gives you an idea of the markup being applied)
  6. If the "flesh detecting technology" promoters get their way and it becomes mandatory not just for TS but all power tools, hand tools will become the "norm" (yes that was deliberate) for all but the professionals and the amateurs with investment banker wallets! I will keep on being hybrid (with a hand tool bias) for as long as I can. Sometimes, the right tool has a tail, sometimes it doesn't. For as long as others also take that approach, hybrid with different emphasis will describe most wwers.
  7. jmk89


    Have you got a really sharp edge on your planes,James? I know that sounds obvious, but about 99.99% of my planing problems can be isolated to the blade being duller than necessary for the task. Next, tell us about the chips and shavings you are getting from your sharp blades - that will make diagnosis easier. The magic spot is not hard to find, but can be hidden by dull edges. One final point from bitter experience - once you feel that you have hit the sweet spot, you will know it and all you have to do thereafter is repeat the experience.
  8. The only way to find it that I know of is through the Wayback Machine It only has the bench plane page, not the other planes that Jim had compared
  9. If the board is twisted and you need to " thinness" it by that much, resawing may be the way to go because it will flatten & thin in the one operation!
  10. I'm afraid not. Maybe one of the WTO posters will know.
  11. There used to be a website that Jim Barker maintained called The Slippery Slope. One of its features was a comparison of the numbers Stanley, Sargent, Millers Falls and Record used for their planes. The Slippery Slope site seems to have disappeared and only seems to have archived the page for smoothers. Does anyone know whether the information has been preserved somewhere and if so how it can be accessed?
  12. jmk89

    Bowsaw string

    While period is nice, I like to use something that doesn't break or damage the arms of the bowsaw. My preferred tensioning string is the synthetic string that bricklayers use for their stringlines. It's strong, has good tension and doesn't cut into the arms of the bow.
  13. My 2c. An important issue is the hardness and 'gnarliness' of the board. The softer and 'friendlier' the board, the more aggressive the approach you can take to rough dimensioning (removing cup, bow and twist). If you have hard board with lots of switching grain (like Australian Ironbark), use a light scrub plane with a very cambered iron taking a pretty light cut and try to avoid too much tear out. The straighter grained the timber, and the softer it is, the deeper and wider the cut you can take (and hence the heavier the plane you can use). So the answer (like a lot of these hand tool questions) is that there is no 'right' answer and the number of variables means that you can use any of those planes, so long as you adjust the depth of cut and the camber on the blade to suit the job at hand. FWIW, I have a set of 3 'scrub' planes. I use a Stanley #40 with a large camber set fine for tough wood, a Carter C1 (an Aussie vintage scrub plane) or a German jack plane - set with medium camber to take a medium chip for medium work and an old jack plane set with a light camber and a heavier cut for timber which is easier to scrub. It really is a case of what works for you, doing the work that you want to do using the timbers you want to use. Experiment and find what works for you.
  14. What's taking up most real estate for this Neanderthal is the crate of old and rusty tools I have acquired to restore where I already have one (& often several) of the same in good condition already! But I will need another 6 panel saws some day, won't I? :)