joelav

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About joelav

  • Rank
    Apprentice Poster

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Agawam MA
  • Woodworking Interests
    Furniture (arts and crafts, traditional joinery, some shaker), turning, cutting boards, shop jigs and fixtures
  1. For jigs and whatnot, I use the cabinet grade crap from home depot. The birch is about 32$ a sheet and the oak laminated is about 45$ a sheet - both for 3/4". I've probably used about 8 to 10 sheets of it in my 9 months of woodworking. I don't use plywood that much. So far the stuff has been ok. Flat, square factory edges, and I have yet to find voids. I am making a pretty unique workbench right now out of plywood and just chopped up 4 sheets into pretty small pieces - no voids I can find and it's all still flat. I don't think I would ever want to use it in a finished piece as the veneer is ve
  2. The R5412 has a well documented defect. I have one and fortunately mine is defect free. Changing the height of the blade on a defective saw will cause the blade to become out of parallel to the miter slot. You can check for this really easily. Take your throat plate off. Clamp a straight edge to the table top. The edge of the straight edge should be directly behind the teeth on the blade (on a flat part as far from the center of the blade as you can get without touching the teeth). Leave a tiny but uniform space between the blade and the straight edge Loosen the height adjustment knob and
  3. I use my drill press as a spindle sander. I just made an insert for my table and it works pretty good. I would be screwed without my brad nailer. I use it ALL the time for making jigs. Also I don't know what I would do without my air compressor. How else do you get sawdust out of those hard to reach places inside of tools and out of nooks and crannies without a blow off gun? I also spray finishes.
  4. I have a lot of diablo. porter cable, MLCS cheap-o bits that I am replacing with whiteside. my local woodcraft has a "whiteside bit of the month" special and I usually buy that one. It's amazing how much better the whiteside bits cut vs the big box bits. In a lot of cases, the whiteside aren't much more expensive. I've got about 15 of them now, and I have another 20 or so to go. My most used bit is my 1/2" shank 1 1/2" whiteside flush trim bit. I do edge jointing with a router. I actually have a 2.5hp router that I just leave that bit in. The woodriver brand 3 flute flush trim bit actuall
  5. Would scoring the area with an exacto knife and gently airbrusing on the stain close to the score lines help at all?
  6. I decided to go with a non-drying oil. Since I have a ton of mineral oil for cutting boards, I just used that. I sanded it down to 400, and the end grain down to 800. I always use the drug store stuff. I can't believe GF sells mineral oil for ELEVEN DOLLARS!. I have 2 bottles, one mixed with beeswax, obviously I am going to skip that one. Once the final coat is dry, if I burnish it with craft paper, will it gloss up a bit?
  7. Not what I wanted to hear, but that make sense and confirmed my suspicions. With that said, would a non drying oil (linseed oil; not BLO or mineral oil) hold any advantages to a drying oil?
  8. I completed a trivet that I will be giving to my sister for Christmas. I am stuck on choosing a finish. I've gotten a few recommendations stating I should use either mineral oil, Tung oil, or BLO. I'd rather not use any of them as I am looking for something more durable, and I wouldn't mind a bit of gloss. My sister will never re-apply finish as needed. Is there any kind of finish that is more durable (poly, lacquer, etc) that I could use? Ideally I'd be spraying it and wiping or brushing would be a nightmare.
  9. I have the 7518 in my router table for all the reasons mentioned above. I had and returned the OF1400 router. For me, it just wasn't worth the premium over something like the Bosch 1617. It's a nice router, but not twice as nice as the Bosch, although it is over twice the price. If you google a bit, you will find some people that have made router table inserts for your Bosch 4100.
  10. I probably have 75 of the harbor freight F clamps. They are cheap and as SonicFedora mentioned, I like the handles better on them then I do my Jorgensens. These are good clamps, however they are not an online purchase. Go to the store and check them out first. If they have 20 on the shelf, 15 are worth purchasing. I only have 2 "nice" clamps (36" Cabinet master parallel clamps). I use those initially to index the glue up and put the cauls on, after that I reach for the F Clamps. Maybe I suck, but I cannot get a glue up to stay straight only using F style bar clamps. It's not a big deal all
  11. I've taken a lot of tips from people that have been using this stuff for years and have found reheating not to be an issue so far. As I said I am still learning though. I have a mini-fridge in the shop. When I turn the lights off for the day, the HHG goes in the fridge. When I start the next day, the first thing I do is plug in the glue pot. I have a ritual of making a single hand cut dovetail every day before I start working. By the time I am done with that the pot is pretty much ready to go. Interesting about the 206g. I have had good luck with 192 so far but I may give that a shot for th
  12. Recently I read a few articles and blog posts about hot hide glue. Being new and not "set in my ways" yet, I decided to give it a try. This stuff is great! It took a while to adjust to as it is a completely different process than using a PVA glue, but it solved almost every problem with glue-ups I have ever had. For complex glue ups that I need a long open time for, or for stuff that will see a lot of water (cutting boards) I still use PVA II glues. HHG bonds REALLY strong, even with minimal clamping pressure, is completely unaffected by finishes, and reversible for that board you accidentally
  13. I was tinking about the water and weight trick, How much should I soak the board? Just wipe it down with a wet rag, or do I want to get it pretty wet?
  14. I made a new jig for my cross cut sled that lets me cut some pretty complex angles repeatedly and predictably. I glued up an edge grain cutting board to test it out. Instead of having the pieces run vertical, when cut the board looks like they were glued at an angle. I used some scraps from other boards as a proof of concept and to tweak the jig, but it actually came out really nice and I want to finish it. The problem is when I went to sand it down this morning, the opposite corners lifted up pretty bad. This is a little on the thin side for a cutting board (about 13/16") but would still make
  15. I made a new one since then, I set the plate WAAY further back so I have room for a miter slot and i used phenolic coated plywood for the top. The R4512 even comes with the washers and screws needed to mount the table. I moved from a dedicated table to this set up. My only regret is dust collection is not as good. It's a fair trade off for the amount of floor space I got back though.