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Everything posted by muddlermike

  1. Chuck, this site will help you figure out about how old your stanley is:
  2. I agree GS - I've followed a dozen or more forums of varrying subjects over the last 15 years and this is definitely one of the "nicer" ones. I've also been following Matt's and Marc's podcasts since their beginnings and have participated with both the chat and this forum since they were conceived. However, the problem with forums - including this one - is that anyone can post anything without any accountability. So, you have to rely on the integrity of the posters to give advice based on their own knowledge and experiences. It's a typical problem when someone not just offers advice, but attem
  3. So, you've never used it and have no experience with olive oil going rancid on your tools, yet you spend 3 posts discrediting my advice? You know, the problem with forums is the lack of integrity of the posters. You just illustrated that point, John. Dean, again - camellia oil can also be found at Highland Woodworking and on Amazon, but Amazon's prices are slightly higher because it's sold under cosmetics. you've had a lot of good suggestions, just remember that whatever you use might be left on the wood to some degree and just be ca
  4. GS - I think this is a great thread and if anyone is offended or polarized then they aren't really reading you questions Again, I can only speak to my experiences but I agree mostly with your first statement. I own a couple new Veritas, a few new Anants, and a couple dozen used/antique planes. With the exception of a couple cheap, stamped steel frogged planes, all of them that are complete and intact can be servicable planes. There is something to be said about design, though. Some planes perform better - and directly related to their design, in my opinion - than others. Of my used planes
  5. I'm guessing that for some, the first plane they used was a new LN or veritas? It's been my experience that newer, high quality planes will work well out of the box and typically only need sharpening. Personally, my early experiences with bench and block planes were relitively cheap 1960's and '70's planes that had crappy steel for the irons and were designed poorly. I didn't know anything about sharpening back then, nor did I know anything about planes in general. If the sole is warped, the frog doesn't seat well or isn't designed properly, or you have an iron that won't hold an edge, then it
  6. Every plane I used up until 5-6 years ago chattered. The planes in "industrial arts" class were the worst. Just take a sightly more aggressive cut with a dull iron on hard maple. Wow... I can't believe you've never had a plane chatter on you
  7. so John, you've had olive oil go rancid on your tools? I guess I've just been lucky, then, because I haven't had any problem. My basement stays pretty dry with a dehumidifier, so maybe that plays a part.
  8. it takes oilve oil about 2 years to go rancid. it's a misconception that you can't use it for tools. It's funny, baby oil is just mineral oil with fragrence, so it make me wonder - why not just use mineral oil? It gets used to season cast iron skillets as well as used as a food safe finish on cutting boards. have we been duped into using more expensive oils to keep our tools rust free? anyone have input on that one??
  9. you can get camilia oil at Highland Woodworking. You can also find it on Amazon but it's slightly more expensive as a cosmetic. You can also use olive oil.
  10. Some dental floss might help to work the glue into the crack.
  11. 1) Milescraft TurnLock 3 in 1 router guide kit - to bulky to use effectively in most cases 2) I would've gone with the large Varitas shoulder plane instead of the medium 3) I wish I knew what I was doing before I bought my Ryobi BT3100 4) I should've spent the extra $50 for the Bosch router kit instead of the Hitachi - the hitachi is a good router but the plunge base sucks 5) I wish I went with a 1.5hp or 2hp DC unit, instead of the 1hp unit I bought
  12. Crocs for me as well. Very comfortable and easy to get on and off when going in and out of the shop.
  13. muddlermike

    Hand planes

    the Anant bullnose is a serviceable, inexpensive plane that will trim cheeks and shoulders for around $50-$60. The iron won't hold an edge like the Veritas but that can be replaced with a hock if you like. As for a low angle block, I would also suggest a decent antique or the anants if you're looking to go inexpensive.
  14. it's been on my list for a while now. just haven't gotten around to buying it...
  15. try a 5-10 degree back bevel for the maple, J-dubbs. I like a 55 degree cutting angle for maple, 50 degrees for cherry and walnut. I have gone to 60 degrees for figured maple, but if it's really curly then a scraper will save you headaches.
  16. I can never get tired of DJM. thanks for posting!
  17. I agree with the sharpening camp. I think you need to sharpen your iron. The anant has a nice thick iron that sharpens up nicely, but I don't know that the steel holds an edge as long as a good hock iron. I never did a shop comparison, might be something fun to test out in the future. still, since you were able to get a decent shaving before then I would touch up your iron and give it a try.
  18. wait - who's this "Marc" guy you're all talking about?
  19. I can't speak to the coffin smoother but I agree with the advice so far with the millers falls. If the knob is solid (meaning not hollowed out) then it's the original Miller's Falls knob. Even so, the millers falls knobs were typically big to begin with. If that's the case, then I would think you either have the frog set too far back or that the adjustment knob is screwed back too far. Check to see if the frog is lined up well with the mouth opening. If it is, then try screwing the knob forward to about a middle position and replacing the iron. it's hard to tell, but it almost looks like th
  20. it's really just about personal preference and the type of work you do. Some people swear by using a #8 over a #7 - that extra 2 inches in length and 1/2 and inch in width might really make a difference if you find yourself flattening large table tops on a regular basis. Many people feel the extra weight of a 4 1/2 helps them get better results smoothing. You never know unless you try it out. I have a millers falls junior jack that is very cute. No better than any of my other #3 or #4 sized planes, just cute. It's probably the only plane in my collection that I can say is only on the wall b
  21. I think you guys are missing the point. Stephen doesn't have any power tools at the moment. It's obvious that he's looking for an alternative means to do wood working, whether it be that he doesn't have the cash for a band saw, the space for it, or he's taking the galoot approach to his hobby. practically all wood working techniques have multiple ways to achieve the end result, including those that don't use electrons. and Paul, shame on you for mentioning a CNC machine in a wood working forum. Suddenly I'm a little queezy....
  22. you know, looking at my previous post, it came across a little cold - sorry if it came out a little abrupt. Most of us have learned from books, videos, magazines, and fellow woodworkers (person-to-person, blogs, forums) so the bulk of what we've learned has been tips, essentially. It might be a bit too vague of a subject or it just might be that it's a long holiday weekend and everyone's been a little busy. give it time. Aside from buying a couple quality squares, the best tip that made the biggest improvement to my woodworking was relative dimensioning. Marc has been talking about it for y
  23. like Mr. Pants said, a true bow saw has a fixed blade, where as a frame saw allows the blade to rotate like a coping saw. this enables you to saw an entire length of a board. Also, many did it with rip panel saws. A sharp saw and proper sawing technique can achieve good results, although obviously not as quick as a bandsaw. here's some new frame saws: highland woodworking also, look at antique shops - even die hard plane collectors don't really give a crap about frame saws, so they can usually be found pretty cheap. A local antique shop near me has 3 or 4 lying around for about $15 a pie
  24. relative dimensioning..... learned it from Marc. also, don't take woodworking, your tools, or yourself too seriously.... learned that from everyone.
  25. you will get cheaper by buying antique block planes, but you might need to replace the iron sometimes. If you're not sure about rehabing an old plane and want to stay in budget, I would look at the Anants. They might need a little tuning, but are decent right out of the box. Their irons are thick and do hold an edge, although not as well as a hock. still a good choice for budget without going antique/rehab route.