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About pghmyn

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    Master Poster
  • Birthday 12/01/1990

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    Basic wood working projects, hobbies.

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  1. For the space and location of the blemish, neither of those would really fit. The runner was the first thing that came to mind, but then I tried really hard to make it work in my mind and I couldn't do it. I think I will end up trying to fill in the scratch with some clear coat. But I want to see if there is something that will help blend the current clear coat. I guess I'm thinking like when old shellac is gone over with new shellac and it "melts" into it. Thanks for the help, everyone. In the long run, I will probably plan to cut these pieces out and replace them with what I have left over. I guess this is another good reason to get the extra 10%. Not only for cutoffs and waste, but repairs down the road. In case anyone was wondering about the product, other than my scratch scenario, it really is a great product. I got it for $2.20/sq.ft on sale from $4.15/sq.ft (clearance). The product is of mixed lengths. 48in 36in 28in 22in. Planks are 5in in width. Durable for all normal uses, so far, as it has been in for about a month now. It gave three options to install. Glue down, staple down, or float. I went with floating, and in the end that is the ONLY decision I regret. I believe I would have been more satisfied with the staple down approach as it would have felt more solid. Not that it moves around, but it is hard to describe the difference without feeling/hearing it in person. Maybe some of you might know. In the end, would I recommend it? Absolutely. It will be the floor material in my next house, I'm sure of that. Lessons learned this time are better executed next time.
  2. I think I'll try to disguise for now. And replace later. I mean, it sucks. It really just took my happy new furniture day and made me angry. I'll get over it, I guess. I've got other projects to focus on first before I think about going down the replacement rabbit hole. Thanks for the help gentlemen!
  3. Looks like it is just the clear. And it looks more "dented" as compared to scratched in most spots along the length. Any way to make the clear "flow" again? As for gluing in a new piece, I can't glue down to the sub floor because the rest of the floor will move and this will remain I'm in place. Maybe cut off the tongue parts and glue edge to edge.
  4. I would have plenty, but the joints are glued together. Is there any way to break the glue bond?
  5. Fellow woodworkers. I have not been around much to for posting content. More so lurking around. The house has been my main project for my free time. Walls came down. New woodwork went in. Stairs were rebuilt. Paint went up. And above all, all new engineered hardwood throughout the first floor. I went with a birch product, because it really fit well with our style. It is extremely durable, and hold up well to the dogs. I accidentally gouged the floor with a nail sticking out of a chair. Nothing I could fix with a close matching stain. I went with the "floating" method because I took out all my old floor and replaced all the subfloor to a nice level surface. My product wasn't click-lock, so all I had to do was glue the joints. Simple process, and the floor was in before you knew it. Overall, really satisfied with the product. Fast forward a month, and our new furniture comes. Time to move the old furniture out, and I think I'm smart by tipping it onto the back side with is a soft fabric surface. Proceed to drag across the room. Look back and see a long trail of a scratch. Explicit terms come out of my mouth like no other. I look for what caused it, and after some searching, there was just the TIP of a blown out staple sticking out of the padding that only shows when you push on the fabric. I've never felt so stupid. Long story short, attached is a picture of my floor. I'm looking for a solution to fix this problem. Ideas about blending, or a procedure that might work best for me. Lucky me, the scratch is right in the walking path so I can't cover it up with a table or furniture.
  6. As little as I reply to threads on here, this deserves a huge congratulations! My wife has been attempting to sway me towards having our first child soon. I must say, she is getting close to persuading me! Best of luck to you in the future with your newest addition.
  7. You can go in all the way as long as you drill the correct sized hole for the screw. By good quality, I mean that you shouldn't use big box store cheap drywall screws. Your choice should be fine.
  8. If you decide to just screw directly to the bottom, make sure to use some good quality screws. They will hold for your purposes. Just remember that racking can still happen. In your situation I really doubt it will, but be aware of it. Make sure to take a picture of the completed project!
  9. Don't let the project win! The links I saw that you provided were just of the table top. Do you have a drawing of the plan for the project? An idea of what you want the final product to look like? Like ponderingturtle said, you can make huge stretchers like a box would have, but I don't think that would be realistic for you. I only say that because it seems like you wanted a sleek/minimalist design. At least that is how I interpreted your vision. Unless I missed it, throw out a quick sketch with some rough dimensions. Might be able to help a little more. Again, don't give up on the project. Take this as a learning opportunity.
  10. The design will not be structurally sound regardless of how many stretchers you have. If you can look at your desk from the front, and all the angles are right angles, then it will rack. What I mean is, your top is parallel to the floor, the legs are perpendicular to the top, and the stretchers/aprons are parallel to the top. Angles between the stretchers/legs, legs/aprons, and legs/top are all 90 degrees. The reason this is bad is because it is called a parallelogram force system. Any slight side force will be transferred to the joints - and only the joints. Consistent movement in the joints will lead to a fail. Basically, you want to add pieces that will carry a load in tension/compression. More desirable is compression since you wont risk pulling a joint apart. I think I read your comments correctly where you said it is going against a wall, but you imply it will not be permanently against THAT wall. If you add a gusset, or simply a brace at an angle from the back legs to the top, you will be just fine.
  11. It was the 20v Lithium Porter Cable drill/impact driver set. The battery life was awesome, and they were powerful. I had absolutely no complaints about the set, other than the gaudy "manly" casing for the tools. I think I might just spring on the deal. Having 3 batteries to share now will be nice.
  12. How do you guys feel about reconditioned tools? I was lazy one night and did not lock my truck. I just thought it would be ok in my driveway. However, some POS decided to go in and take my drill bag. Which had my drill, battery, charger, and several bits whatnot. Now I have my impact driver, and 1 battery. I want to buy the same brand again, because I don't want this impact driver to go to waste. And the charger alone is $40. I was really pleased with the performance of these drills. I see a deal online for the drill, and a battery circ saw. 1.5ah and 4ah batteries. But it is reconditioned. Any thoughts on reconditioned tools?
  13. If you're not parking your car on it, you're fine. In all seriousness, the lumber is strong enough.
  14. Pocket hole joinery isn't #1. I discredit the entire test.
  15. I don't know if I just grew up with the safe RAS, but I never feared it. There waa a switch to turn it on, and then a button in the head that you depress to control how fast the head could move forward. It was connected to a motor and cable. If you let go of the button, it would stop in place. No budging it. One of the safest tools I've used.