sjeff70

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Everything posted by sjeff70

  1. I thought it might be easier/more efficient because I could use the jointer and make quicker work of it, like in Cremona's video above. Thanks for the input all, I just wanted to verify what I was seeing because it looked like no one else was doing it.
  2. I was looking through youtube videos over the weekend and came across only a few videos where a large log was quartered in the field. When you search with the word, 'quartered' it wants to bring up 'quarter sawn' but I don't know what else to call it. But anyway, in both videos they used the Alaskan sawmill. If one were inclined to quarter a 17" diameter log, 3 feet long, in the field it would make things more manageable bringing quarters to the shop. I came across a surprising number of woodworkers happy to plain sawn logs in the shop. I understand the desire to slab but only a few attempted patterns on too small a log in the shop. I know it's tough on the bandsaw but I found no videos where someone quartered a log in the field and then milled one of the quarters on their bandsaw.
  3. Did you used to be a math teacher Coop? Do you know what the diameter of a log would be if it had a 16" circumference? D=C/PI D=16/3.14 D=5.1"
  4. The log would have to be 16" around if you wanted to get a project out of it. You'd get (4) 8" boards and then the stock gets narrower and narrower from there. A log 16" around at 2 feet long would be too heavy to handle and the length too short.
  5. How big around did you go and what grain patterns did you shoot for. Are logs worth buying?
  6. In this Matt Cremona video he takes a short log and mills boards into different grain patterns using a jointer and bandsaw. What interests me is that he uses the jointer to get 2 sides flat where others use a common practice of attaching a log to a sled before running it through the bandsaw. Matt doesn't waste his time doing that though. He installs a high fence on the bandsaw and runs one of the jointed faces along it - simple. I love this approach. My question is what's the maximum length of log one can use, using this method. His log is pretty short in length. I suppose a length that wouldn't be too heavy for the jointer and bandsaw and one you could safely move around without straining yourself? Go to the 4 minute mark:
  7. You hit on something. It's not so much the style but the maker. The desk is extraordinary but they also made a mean, tall grandfather clock.
  8. That's what's great about period furniture, it doesn't date.
  9. Been debating that one too for a while. I'm trying to go without one by going with a pair of ottomans instead... or a large drum table would be nice, sometimes called a center table. Wouldn't go over 24" high. There was one just like the one posted in a 3rd season episode of 'Better Call Saul'.
  10. A friend of mine's dad is a retired electrician. He buys new homes and walks through them as they're being built. Makes notes on obvious discrepancies that he can verify against the contract/plans. Then he sues the building company upon walk-through/completion. If it's not using correct (or upgraded) materials or using building shortcuts it's something else. He enjoys it and makes a lot of money doing it.
  11. I'd love a house full of federal period reproductions; that's my sole interest for woodworking.
  12. I like books which over time drew me to my favorite periods and cabinet makers. You get so much from books. Go to Amazon.com and search 'period furniture measured drawings' or something to that effect. Buy used and get deep discounts. I know there's a Pennsylvania Dutch Chest in Bill Hylton's, 'Chest of Drawers'. There's also a few in Lang's, 'Furniture in the Southern Style'.
  13. Thanks G. Funny how PBS determines who gets what and when. Here in St. Louis we are up to date on Woodsmith Shop.
  14. I caught the first show of season 1 last Sunday. Caught me by total surprise, it's sponsored by Fine Woodworking. I'm looking forward to more of this. I also caught the new Woodsmith Shop which aired right before Classic Woodworking. It's a new format now with all new staff. They brought back one guy but turned the rest of the staff over. I think it's Christ Fitch but it's difficult to tell since there's little information available, my patience wears thin when I can't find something that should be so simple to find via Google. You go to Chris Fitch's little blog site and there's no pic of him anywhere so it's anyone's guess who these people are.
  15. I'm using the UltraLight drywall at Home Depot. The 12 footers are about 55 lbs, much lighter than the regular stuff. What concerned me most before starting was how high I had to lift a sheet to get it onto the lift. The trick is once you lift the sheet, tilt the top of the sheet onto your shoulder/head. Just let it gently fall back onto your shoulder/head. This puts the weight over your entire body instead of just your hands and it automatically tilts the bottom of the sheet higher so you can get it onto the lift. Here's what it looks like. Go to the 10 minute mark. It's very subtle but he's actually resting the top of the sheet on his shoulder as he's carrying it to the lift. This not only makes it lighter but it tilts the bottom of the board higher so you can get it on the lift:
  16. In my opinion you have to decide if you want to cook with logs or charcoal and go from there.
  17. The pulls aren't Hepplewhite are they? They resemble Chippendale.
  18. lol yea I'm 49. I'm hiring out the mud and taping but when I was shopping around I couldn't find anyone to call me back either. Either no call backs or they were out of business. Weird. I finally did find someone who could mud and tape but they are 6-8 weeks out. I checked into some of the gimmicks where you end a sheet between studs. I like your solution Tom, if I ever do this again (NOT!) I'll go this route.
  19. In terms of trying to eliminate butt joints when planning your drywall install, putting a tapered joint along a non-tapered joint is still a butt joint. I couldn't find the answer to this anywhere, not in any article on my FHB magazine archive CD or any online forum where it's difficult determining one's expertise: everyone wants to be a expert. Something else I didn't know or read was how cuts for the ceiling are mirrored when using a drywall lift. Isn't it fun routing out the HVAC registers and receptacles? I don't envy those who do this for a living but they sure make it look easy.
  20. I've always liked the record vise encased in wood like David Marks has on his bench. How is the vise you guys are describing better than an inexpensive record vise?
  21. Amazon has it for $579. It's the DW735X which means you get the feed tables and extra knives. So if you don't need the stand you could save $20. Don't know what tax savings you could get on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Thickness-Package/dp/B003OX9KME/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=dw735xw7350+dewalt+planer&qid=1553018141&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr0 Of course $20 for a $145 stand is a pretty good deal.
  22. You'll be able to see it's a built in with the existing wall constraints, it's not like there's room which would beg the question as to why you didn't make them symmetrical. Symmetrical is boring and contrived anyway. Like staging furniture with matching lamps.
  23. Love the bureau. Very pleasing, subtle wood grain choice you made there. I dislike flashy contrasting woods and grain patterns that are too much and don't grow with you over time. Nice work.
  24. The focus of that book is how to identify a good period furniture piece, so it contains no construction details. I have one of the earlier editions of that book, I hope the newest edition was finally printed in color. That's a great looking piece, the Federal period is my favorite. Is your book new? I couldn't find it anywhere.